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Toledo? Or rather Islay?
Lehmann lets it crash now and then right with the head notes.
Oud, for example, burrows through a bed of beastly tea tree spice, before he becomes friendly and warm, yes, really muggy. The Lehmann sandal waits with a prominent Wick vaporub top note, Verité lets the inclined Riecher first linger for some time in the back room of a pharmacy, before it broadens to a luxurious vanilla patchouli Oriental.
Toledo's top notes are nothing short of this: Bitter herbaceousness with dry, distinctly medicinal spiciness and a recognizably ethereal note (I'm guessing anise and eucalyptus), with at most medium-present citrusy sprinkles. No lemon, the brightening, fresh, healthy of a lemon is completely missing, it is rather bitter, dried, gnarly citrus notes.
It all mixes together in my nose to form a peculiar, sharp and confusing blend all its own - it smells like Scottish malts, and the kind produced on Islay. I smell hints of gauze bandage, of sticking plaster and of hoof tar . That sounds bad, I know, but it's not like that (this for all those who are now actually already out of the act: stay here, the scent is great, I promise). Because there is also a background malt sweetness and fine powdery fern tones and even now this touch of very soft leather, which will not quite disappear during the entire dwell time.
Lehmann has recognizably not wanted to create a fragrance with easy entry, he has a fortified wall with a heavy gate in front of the Alcázar - or from me also from the Castillo de Guardamur. The gate opens only in slow motion, the top note does not seem to change for a long time.
But of course it does, and very gradually the fragrance becomes warmer, bone dry admittedly always, with a bit of vanilla sweet stuff to soothe. Some cocoa perhaps, dusty and powdery, and a spicy, nose-tickling note, peppery. And always that hint of soft leather.
Floral notes I can not detect, heliotrope I consider of course very possible, but let it - because of its mainly vanilla impression - not as a flower.
I like this heart note extraordinarily. It is warm, dry, delicately spicy and darkly toned. Dense and substantial. Earthy, a bit melancholic beyond, almost heavy-blooded, without being dull or even dull. I would wear it in Toledo - even in high summer, by the way.
The durability is clay-typical, so remarkable - even on my fragrance-eating skin Toledo holds out more than eight hours, on the sweater until the next day.
Also typical of clay is that the scent hardly changes from the full development of the heart note. Sandalwood notes push later a little more to the fore - but otherwise Toledo simply evaporates.
From its midday hour, by the way, Toledo reminds me a lot of Verité. In the next few days I will carry both against each other and see if that can be true at all. I will report.
Oud, for example, burrows through a bed of beastly tea tree spice, before he becomes friendly and warm, yes, really muggy. The Lehmann sandal waits with a prominent Wick vaporub top note, Verité lets the inclined Riecher first linger for some time in the back room of a pharmacy, before it broadens to a luxurious vanilla patchouli Oriental.
Toledo's top notes are nothing short of this: Bitter herbaceousness with dry, distinctly medicinal spiciness and a recognizably ethereal note (I'm guessing anise and eucalyptus), with at most medium-present citrusy sprinkles. No lemon, the brightening, fresh, healthy of a lemon is completely missing, it is rather bitter, dried, gnarly citrus notes.
It all mixes together in my nose to form a peculiar, sharp and confusing blend all its own - it smells like Scottish malts, and the kind produced on Islay. I smell hints of gauze bandage, of sticking plaster and of hoof tar . That sounds bad, I know, but it's not like that (this for all those who are now actually already out of the act: stay here, the scent is great, I promise). Because there is also a background malt sweetness and fine powdery fern tones and even now this touch of very soft leather, which will not quite disappear during the entire dwell time.
Lehmann has recognizably not wanted to create a fragrance with easy entry, he has a fortified wall with a heavy gate in front of the Alcázar - or from me also from the Castillo de Guardamur. The gate opens only in slow motion, the top note does not seem to change for a long time.
But of course it does, and very gradually the fragrance becomes warmer, bone dry admittedly always, with a bit of vanilla sweet stuff to soothe. Some cocoa perhaps, dusty and powdery, and a spicy, nose-tickling note, peppery. And always that hint of soft leather.
Floral notes I can not detect, heliotrope I consider of course very possible, but let it - because of its mainly vanilla impression - not as a flower.
I like this heart note extraordinarily. It is warm, dry, delicately spicy and darkly toned. Dense and substantial. Earthy, a bit melancholic beyond, almost heavy-blooded, without being dull or even dull. I would wear it in Toledo - even in high summer, by the way.
The durability is clay-typical, so remarkable - even on my fragrance-eating skin Toledo holds out more than eight hours, on the sweater until the next day.
Also typical of clay is that the scent hardly changes from the full development of the heart note. Sandalwood notes push later a little more to the fore - but otherwise Toledo simply evaporates.
From its midday hour, by the way, Toledo reminds me a lot of Verité. In the next few days I will carry both against each other and see if that can be true at all. I will report.
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