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10/11/2020
Sailor2
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Sailor2
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The diplomat: Fine cognac note embedded in subtle oriental sweetness
Basically, this commentary was written under the sign of Yin and Yang. I had previously written a few lines about Le Vainqueur of Rancé, a fragrance dedicated to the Corsican Napoleon - vintage 1769. 8 Mars 1764 is the date of birth of Carlo Andrea Pozzo di Borgo - politician, diplomat - who also comes from Corsica. As the date shows, he belonged to Napoleon's generation and not only that: the two Corsicans were friends at first, but later - the revolution of 1789 and politically extremely turbulent times came - they became bitter enemies and opponents (Pozzo di Borgo was a monarchist). That is why he even had to flee from Corsica and France and dabbled as a diplomat in European countries to make trouble with Napoleon. In London or Moscow he naturally met with open ears. He played an important role in the decline of Napoleon. After that he was Russian ambassador in Paris for a long time
The perfume house Pozzo di Borgo was founded by Valentine Pozzo di Borgo in 2013. It would be stupid not to have a perfume line with such a great sounding family name. The Vanderbilts, Rothschilds, Trumps send their regards. At first she chose names from the Pozzo di Borgo family history for her fragrances, but in the end she thought it was better to use the respective birth dates of the different personalities. The first women's fragrance of the house "23 Janvier 1984" refers to her own date of birth.
As has already been mentioned here in a commentary, Valentine Pozzo di Borgo is the maternal great-great granddaughter of Xavier Givaudan, who founded the Givaudan company together with his brother in 1895. Today, this company is one of the largest fragrance and flavour suppliers in the world and is basically behind fragrances such as cK Obsession or One Million.
I don't think she herself has much more to do with Givaudan (those who know better, please comment); the company is certainly owned by major investors such as Bill Gates. Haha, when you think about it, it's a bit stupid: you buy a Flacon Obsession and some of the profit ends up in Bill Gates' pockets. According to the marketing text, her grandfather Léon Givaudan also worked in the perfume industry and is said to have created fragrances such as Fleur de Fleurs by Nina Ricci or Paloma by Paloma Picasso - which surprises me, because Fleur de Fleurs has Betty Busse and Paloma Picasso has Francis Bocris as a nose. By the way, Valentine Pozzo di Borgo also founded the (room) fragrance house Quintessence Paris in 2008 with the interesting cabinet fragrance Voyage Nocturne.
The nose behind 8 Mars 1764 is Philippe Bousseton. His creations include Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels (1989), Cool Water Wave (2007) and Jil Sunder Sun Bath (2015). According to Valentine Pozzo di Borgo, the result was that she worked with Philippe Bousseton on a fragrance she liked. Then came spontaneous memories of her great uncle Carlo Andrea Pozzo di Borgo. At that moment she is said to have decided to dedicate a men's fragrance to him (although 8 Mars 1764 is actually given as unisex).
The fragrance seems elegant to me, so it would really suit a diplomat well. The top note is fine-"boozy", at the beginning the cognac note is clearly present. According to Bousseton, the fragrance is supposed to recreate three regions that go back to the family history: Russia, with the traditional "Russian leather" note, where styrax essences, vetiver and leather notes are mixed (this note is usually based on essential birch oil or labdanum, but also on animal notes such as civet); Corsica, with the typical bushes of maquis with their freshness (which is supposed to lighten the fragrance) and finally chic Paris with hesperides, paired with a spicy essence of elemi.
With time, the cognac note recedes, accompanied by sweet oriental notes. With this fragrance I had to think from the "vibe" partly of the old version of Roma. In a blind test, I certainly wouldn't have guessed that the fragrance comes from 2013; I would have rather guessed the 90s. In my opinion, the fragrance has no clear vetiver or leather notes (fine Russian leather does). I can understand what many perfumers have noted here: The fine head and heart note is followed by a fine sweetish resinous drydown with a limited sillage. For me, the shelf life was pretty good (8-10 hours), but the fragrance remains very close to the skin. Yes, I can understand if many think the base note is weak. It doesn't bother me, on the contrary: I like subtle fragrances that can be used as an everyday scent. 8 Mars 1764 is also unique, the fine cognac note makes the fragrance interesting. As a fragrance twin I can't think of anything.
The flacon design is by Pierre Dinand, who also designed the opium flacon. Monsieur Dinand is actually an architect. The design is said to have been inspired by the family castle of the Pozzo di Borgos in Corsica.
The perfume house Pozzo di Borgo was founded by Valentine Pozzo di Borgo in 2013. It would be stupid not to have a perfume line with such a great sounding family name. The Vanderbilts, Rothschilds, Trumps send their regards. At first she chose names from the Pozzo di Borgo family history for her fragrances, but in the end she thought it was better to use the respective birth dates of the different personalities. The first women's fragrance of the house "23 Janvier 1984" refers to her own date of birth.
As has already been mentioned here in a commentary, Valentine Pozzo di Borgo is the maternal great-great granddaughter of Xavier Givaudan, who founded the Givaudan company together with his brother in 1895. Today, this company is one of the largest fragrance and flavour suppliers in the world and is basically behind fragrances such as cK Obsession or One Million.
I don't think she herself has much more to do with Givaudan (those who know better, please comment); the company is certainly owned by major investors such as Bill Gates. Haha, when you think about it, it's a bit stupid: you buy a Flacon Obsession and some of the profit ends up in Bill Gates' pockets. According to the marketing text, her grandfather Léon Givaudan also worked in the perfume industry and is said to have created fragrances such as Fleur de Fleurs by Nina Ricci or Paloma by Paloma Picasso - which surprises me, because Fleur de Fleurs has Betty Busse and Paloma Picasso has Francis Bocris as a nose. By the way, Valentine Pozzo di Borgo also founded the (room) fragrance house Quintessence Paris in 2008 with the interesting cabinet fragrance Voyage Nocturne.
The nose behind 8 Mars 1764 is Philippe Bousseton. His creations include Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels (1989), Cool Water Wave (2007) and Jil Sunder Sun Bath (2015). According to Valentine Pozzo di Borgo, the result was that she worked with Philippe Bousseton on a fragrance she liked. Then came spontaneous memories of her great uncle Carlo Andrea Pozzo di Borgo. At that moment she is said to have decided to dedicate a men's fragrance to him (although 8 Mars 1764 is actually given as unisex).
The fragrance seems elegant to me, so it would really suit a diplomat well. The top note is fine-"boozy", at the beginning the cognac note is clearly present. According to Bousseton, the fragrance is supposed to recreate three regions that go back to the family history: Russia, with the traditional "Russian leather" note, where styrax essences, vetiver and leather notes are mixed (this note is usually based on essential birch oil or labdanum, but also on animal notes such as civet); Corsica, with the typical bushes of maquis with their freshness (which is supposed to lighten the fragrance) and finally chic Paris with hesperides, paired with a spicy essence of elemi.
With time, the cognac note recedes, accompanied by sweet oriental notes. With this fragrance I had to think from the "vibe" partly of the old version of Roma. In a blind test, I certainly wouldn't have guessed that the fragrance comes from 2013; I would have rather guessed the 90s. In my opinion, the fragrance has no clear vetiver or leather notes (fine Russian leather does). I can understand what many perfumers have noted here: The fine head and heart note is followed by a fine sweetish resinous drydown with a limited sillage. For me, the shelf life was pretty good (8-10 hours), but the fragrance remains very close to the skin. Yes, I can understand if many think the base note is weak. It doesn't bother me, on the contrary: I like subtle fragrances that can be used as an everyday scent. 8 Mars 1764 is also unique, the fine cognac note makes the fragrance interesting. As a fragrance twin I can't think of anything.
The flacon design is by Pierre Dinand, who also designed the opium flacon. Monsieur Dinand is actually an architect. The design is said to have been inspired by the family castle of the Pozzo di Borgos in Corsica.
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