Patchouli Homme

Patchouli pour Homme

Réminiscence 2000

Patchouli Homme by Reminiscence is not the first or the only perfume centred on this polarizing ancient plant. And it won’t be the last either. A plethora of brands, both designer and niche, have at least one piece in their catalogue, monothemed or inspired by patchouli. And with Reminiscence, we find at least a handful of them which range between different concentrations and blends with other protagonist ingredients. While maintaining an almost similar DNA, this men’s version, in my perception, differs from the original, which has sweeter and more chocolatey notes. This, however, leans more towards mineral, dusty, woody and dirty accords. Naturally, both focused on the note of patchouli, this version enhances all the strong and sharp facets of this unique raw ingredient, which gives a powerful sensation of a dusty and leathery accord. It lacks that touch of sweetness that helps define it as an amber perfume, distancing it from gourmand territory. If you want to risk a blind purchase, keep in mind this thin line that separates the two fragrances.

Patchouli Homme is a non-linear fragrance that crosses citrus, balsamic, earthy, powdery, and resinous accords. It reveals itself with an intense sour citrus accord, mainly lemony, with a dirty and bitter undertone. There are hints of minty and balmy nuances, not exactly those of the mint plant, but more bitter and spicy akin to mugwort and cardamom. Perhaps it is coming from the patchouli itself, which belongs to the mint family, and some oils have a minty-woody undertone. The lime fruits are cut into slices; you can taste the oil from the peels and the juice from the pulp, and they combine with the chopped minty things, as in a non-alcoholic Mojito. If you’re familiar with the original "Patchouli | Réminiscence", this opening is slightly unexpected and unsettling. It is not as rich, palatable, vigorous, overbearing, pressing, or irritating. Patchouli Homme is cool, relaxing and comfortable. You might expect a dense, opulent, full-bodied departure, but nothing so celestial and refreshing. It confuses me, luckily in a good way. The more I analyze it, the more my desire to know its evolution grows. Do not assume this as a citrus scent, because the zesty aspect vanishes quite soon.

As the initial harshness fades, the scent of patchouli leaves mixed with those of geranium intensifies and takes shape, following the gestures of a propitiatory rite. Slowly the dark and dusty patchouli emerges from a purifying cedar wood tub, the acidic drops flow and dry, evaporating, until aromatic and soothing oils and talcum powders completely cover it. Dusty iris root and earthy patchouli leaves alternate in an enchanting aroma, rich in sensuality and delicacy, powdery but always confined to the masculine sphere, never similar to baby powder or too flowery. You perceive something rough, dusty like soil, or chalky like concrete. The flowers present in the formula are never cheeky and give the perfume that virility worthy of the name it bears. Despite having undergone a process of refinement, modern patchouli still displays many earthy facets, while the sticky, sweet, oily and gourmand notes are absent and leave room for odours that recall the roots of plants just uprooted from mother earth, dirty with moist, fresh soil. In the central part, to my nose, I can feel the powdery nuances of the iris together with the filthy ones of the patchouli, which partially hide the drier and woodier aspects of the cedar. Since I love both accords, I miss that touch of pencil shavings a little, without detracting from the beauty of this elixir.

After a long hover flight, landing manoeuvres begin, which induces a new mutation. The dry-down appears moderately sweet, more balmy, and warmer than the opening while maintaining the filthy aspects. The presence of a good number of resins, balsams, and labdanum gives the perfume a special charm with a leathery slant. Sweet benzoin and powdery musk are present in a beautiful balance, never overwhelming the other participants. In the end, patchouli and tonka bean will remain, sharing a beautiful amber composition with a pleasant, powdery, semi-soapy flavour. To some extent, iris, vanilla, tonka, and resins blend sometimes remind me of Shalimar Eau de Toilette, which is a distinct perfume with just a few related vibes.

Patchouli Homme prefers the joys of autumn, the crisp breezes, the bright colours that change, the persistent smell of damp earth and the sweet melancholy of watching nature prepare to rest to face the freezing winter. Despite being recently reformulated, the performance is rewarding on clothes and paper strip. Alas, I cannot feel it on me for several hours, and the projection is not annoying or suffocating, but intimate and very close to the skin. You can wear it with no problems during the day, to go to the office, as well as for evening or night events. Perhaps it is my batch, and it does not scream. Ultimately, I bought it blindly since the tester was not available, relying on the original version and the stated notes. And I don’t regret the choice.

I’m basing my feelings on a bottle I’ve owned since March 2024. (BC G056, PD 2022-06).

-Elysium

P.S. I admit I'm a little confused about the performance. I had applied about ten sprays by late morning, and by the afternoon I no longer felt it. In the late afternoon, I went out on some errands and reapplied a handful of sprays on my clothes. Towards the evening, I met a friend I hadn't seen for years, and he unexpectedly said to me "Your perfume is so good, so delicate, what is it?" Maybe the scent isn't that faint, but I'm the one who becomes addicted to it in a short time.