Atelier Noir Sergio Soldano 1988

The opening of Atelier Noir can best be described, not by referencing the scent of any one particular fruit or flower, but by an actual color, what I'm going to call, a shade of "blackened violet". Not necessarily from Violets as in the flower or Blackberry, though this fragrance does indeed have nuances of both those notes, but by the very hue itself, an intense, satiny shade of "blackened violet", a coloring that is more "felt" or sensed, than seen or actually smelled.

And it's from within this veil of "purply blackness" that slowly emerges the most enticing bouquet of bitter Hyacinths, dozens upon dozens of ruby red Roses, and a sweet, green-tinged, Lily of the Valley, all wrapped in an enveloping cocoon of rich Musk, gossamer-like aldehydes, vintage powder, a touch of dried fruit, and the grounding, earthy notes of Vetiver, and Patchouli.

But the real "Pièce de résistance" of this terrific composition is its extraordinary Rose accord, that is at once tenderly lifelike, like a just opened, dew kissed, garden rose, while simultaneously verging into the powdery, "cosmetics type" of lipstick roses that one often finds in beautiful classics like YSLs Paris.

An exquisite, lesser known, 80s vintage that is definitely worth hunting down, just gorgeous.