Top Notes 
Tuberose
Lemon
Thyme
Heart Notes 
Ginger
Pepper
Fennel
Base Notes 
Oakmoss
Cedarwood
Meggi
1018 Reviews
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Meggi
Top Review
35
Good that I’m only trying it now!
No other fragrance has been on my watchlist longer than this one. When I wandered around here during my early Parfumo days, marveling at all that exists, XPEC Original - of course, more or less by chance - became the first entry. That I could finally test it is thanks to Jumi. I have taken the generously sized sample in hand from time to time over the months and have almost emptied it, yet I hardly feel capable of giving sorted thoughts. The following paragraphs should therefore not be understood as a clear sequence but should actually flow into one another - ultimately as marginal areas of a large, shared whole, in which the tuberose truly finds worthy companions.
What a brew! Good that I’m only trying it now, with a bit more experience. Back in 2013, it would have blown me away. It doesn’t have to hide from any heavy hitter from the 80s.
First, there’s glue upfront, then dark floral-animalic notes, rubbed down by a bitter, completely unsweet citrus-spice grind. An abyss. Hours pass before I’m sure about specific spices and wonder why I didn’t smell the thyme right away. The fruit note can be described most closely as ginger-citrus candy - if that doesn’t sound far too tame in context. Such a candy would have a similar effect to Madam Pomfrey’s pick-me-up potion, the school nurse from Hogwarts: Eliminates any cold in no time, but the cured ones have smoke coming out of their ears for several hours. By the way, I would be the first to enthusiastically try such a thing, potion like candy. Second “by the way”: It’s often noticeable that tuberose is turned towards fruit candy, presumably to soften it. Today it shows that this doesn’t necessarily go hand in hand.
A decent amount of rose geranium, which comes across as less scratchy than elsewhere, instead resonating in a herb-floral, subtly powdered elegance. It doesn’t have to be considered distinctly masculine in a perhaps rugged sense at all. Piguet’s 44 ‘Bandit’ (not a twin, just an illustrative object!) is intended for ladies and still lets the - of course metaphorical - eggs hang out even more demonstratively than the present candidate.
Dark-bitter wood, on the threshold of charred, softened by a background creamy sweetness. The term “peat fire” has already been mentioned - it fits. In any case, a diffusely smoky aura, not quite graspable. “Herb-peaty” or “warm-peaty” would also hit the mark.
By late morning, the great whole invoked in the first paragraph finally seems to be standing. A gently fruity-floral, deep dark aura on abyssal wood. The thyme is unobtrusive but distinct, citrus-roughly underlaid. It is spiced not only by a hint of fruity sweetness, like a wink, but also by a touch of unwashedness. Only perceptible directly on the skin and by no means as penetrating as, for example, in Micallef’s ‘Emir’. Additionally, there’s an association brushing against the coarse-leathery (castoreum?) as well as a sort of urination note, which probably alchemically arises from all of the above and is noticeable for hours, although not overwhelming.
The slow build-up of the fragrance structure has apparently paid off, as ‘XPEC Original’ glides through the afternoon with unchanged potency. An increasing intensity in the citrus makes me initially think of orange-flavored grape sugar and later I sense behind it effervescent powder-citral. That would explain the fruity, almost fizzy wink that breaks the peak for both the floral and animal factions.
And now? My description sounds to me like an almost violent jumble. But that’s not the case. Since that almost a year ago, I am amazed every time I wear ‘XPEC Original’ that almost from the beginning, at the latest from the progressing morning, a barely noticeable veil seems to hover like chiffon over the fragrance event, a softening and connecting element alike. Only in this gentle restraint does the inherent power of the perfume become truly sovereign, and with that, I’m in…
…Conclusion: That I personally am not “XPEC Original” and it doesn’t fully meet my preferences doesn’t change the fact that it is a great achievement. The masculine classification should not deter. The substance is certainly not for little girls, but I can imagine it wonderfully on real women.
What a brew! Good that I’m only trying it now, with a bit more experience. Back in 2013, it would have blown me away. It doesn’t have to hide from any heavy hitter from the 80s.
First, there’s glue upfront, then dark floral-animalic notes, rubbed down by a bitter, completely unsweet citrus-spice grind. An abyss. Hours pass before I’m sure about specific spices and wonder why I didn’t smell the thyme right away. The fruit note can be described most closely as ginger-citrus candy - if that doesn’t sound far too tame in context. Such a candy would have a similar effect to Madam Pomfrey’s pick-me-up potion, the school nurse from Hogwarts: Eliminates any cold in no time, but the cured ones have smoke coming out of their ears for several hours. By the way, I would be the first to enthusiastically try such a thing, potion like candy. Second “by the way”: It’s often noticeable that tuberose is turned towards fruit candy, presumably to soften it. Today it shows that this doesn’t necessarily go hand in hand.
A decent amount of rose geranium, which comes across as less scratchy than elsewhere, instead resonating in a herb-floral, subtly powdered elegance. It doesn’t have to be considered distinctly masculine in a perhaps rugged sense at all. Piguet’s 44 ‘Bandit’ (not a twin, just an illustrative object!) is intended for ladies and still lets the - of course metaphorical - eggs hang out even more demonstratively than the present candidate.
Dark-bitter wood, on the threshold of charred, softened by a background creamy sweetness. The term “peat fire” has already been mentioned - it fits. In any case, a diffusely smoky aura, not quite graspable. “Herb-peaty” or “warm-peaty” would also hit the mark.
By late morning, the great whole invoked in the first paragraph finally seems to be standing. A gently fruity-floral, deep dark aura on abyssal wood. The thyme is unobtrusive but distinct, citrus-roughly underlaid. It is spiced not only by a hint of fruity sweetness, like a wink, but also by a touch of unwashedness. Only perceptible directly on the skin and by no means as penetrating as, for example, in Micallef’s ‘Emir’. Additionally, there’s an association brushing against the coarse-leathery (castoreum?) as well as a sort of urination note, which probably alchemically arises from all of the above and is noticeable for hours, although not overwhelming.
The slow build-up of the fragrance structure has apparently paid off, as ‘XPEC Original’ glides through the afternoon with unchanged potency. An increasing intensity in the citrus makes me initially think of orange-flavored grape sugar and later I sense behind it effervescent powder-citral. That would explain the fruity, almost fizzy wink that breaks the peak for both the floral and animal factions.
And now? My description sounds to me like an almost violent jumble. But that’s not the case. Since that almost a year ago, I am amazed every time I wear ‘XPEC Original’ that almost from the beginning, at the latest from the progressing morning, a barely noticeable veil seems to hover like chiffon over the fragrance event, a softening and connecting element alike. Only in this gentle restraint does the inherent power of the perfume become truly sovereign, and with that, I’m in…
…Conclusion: That I personally am not “XPEC Original” and it doesn’t fully meet my preferences doesn’t change the fact that it is a great achievement. The masculine classification should not deter. The substance is certainly not for little girls, but I can imagine it wonderfully on real women.
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