5
Helpful Review
No oud, still good
Groove Xcape is a curious creation. It has all the makings of an oriental composition, but doesn't include any oud. As such, spices, resins and musty patchouli are more noticeable, resulting in a creamy-leaning perfume, rather than a dry, woody one. It's not your typical Xerjoff product - more of a crossover between Amouage and Sorcinelli.
The opening is a great blast of cardamom and pepper; somewhere between green, floral and metallic. Spiciness is soon balanced out by a piney frankincense that's more balsamic than smoky. It also has a fresh, citrusy quality. Overall, the scent leans spicy and resinous, with honey-like facets of myrrh and mimosa.
If you're familiar with Karine Vinchon-Spehner's work, you'll notice some similarities with Memoir Man. There's a herbaceous, slightly medicinal undertone with a faint hint of booze, almost as if artemisia was used. Cedar and labdanum add subtle woodiness, but instead of Sorcinelli's dusty attic, I'm reminded of a musty basement.
I'm particularly fond of the deep drydown, where benzoin's vanillic warmth complements the damp earthiness of patchouli. The result? Somewhat dirty and spicy, yet still pleasant, with some sweetness to boot. I've had my doubts; after all, oud is a quintessential part of oriental blends. That said, it works, and allows me to enjoy different nuances.
Somehow, the fragrance doesn't commit to either schtick - Amouage or Sorcinelli. We get the best of both worlds - meditative incense and long-lasting resins. Don't be discouraged by the rating and give this one a shot if you enjoy Middle Eastern perfumery.
The opening is a great blast of cardamom and pepper; somewhere between green, floral and metallic. Spiciness is soon balanced out by a piney frankincense that's more balsamic than smoky. It also has a fresh, citrusy quality. Overall, the scent leans spicy and resinous, with honey-like facets of myrrh and mimosa.
If you're familiar with Karine Vinchon-Spehner's work, you'll notice some similarities with Memoir Man. There's a herbaceous, slightly medicinal undertone with a faint hint of booze, almost as if artemisia was used. Cedar and labdanum add subtle woodiness, but instead of Sorcinelli's dusty attic, I'm reminded of a musty basement.
I'm particularly fond of the deep drydown, where benzoin's vanillic warmth complements the damp earthiness of patchouli. The result? Somewhat dirty and spicy, yet still pleasant, with some sweetness to boot. I've had my doubts; after all, oud is a quintessential part of oriental blends. That said, it works, and allows me to enjoy different nuances.
Somehow, the fragrance doesn't commit to either schtick - Amouage or Sorcinelli. We get the best of both worlds - meditative incense and long-lasting resins. Don't be discouraged by the rating and give this one a shot if you enjoy Middle Eastern perfumery.
2 Comments
Anyway, I must have read somewhere that the notes should create some kind of (smoke from a) smoke machine vibe... what do you think?
The smoke machine vibe is interesting, overt spiciness makes Xcape a more "humid" perfume, but I wouldn't say it's too metallic - florals and resins take care of that.
I think the only time I was reminded of a smoke machine was Berlin by Miguel Matos, where it's forced by cold, metallic incense, cumin and other animalic notes, so it's sweatier, saltier.