Mamluk Xerjoff 2012

Admittedly, it may not be so easy to answer this at first. The fact is, both are "Honey" Oud stars and actually resemble each other the most within the line. It’s not surprising, then, why these two fragrances are often compared.

But which one should you reach for?

This question could actually be answered relatively quickly if one pays full attention to the respective price tag for just a brief moment. However, if you are not too deterred by this fact and dare to make the comparison, you will find that both certainly deserve their place, as they each take slightly different paths. In the end, it really comes down to the individual taste of each person.

About the scent:

Mamluk is, compared to all the Oud stars, exceptionally rounded and harmoniously composed, and is one of the sweeter fragrances in this series. It starts fresh-floral. The sweetness contained in the flowers directly combines with that of the honey. The honey here is not sweet-pungent or artificial, as one often knows from honey fragrances, but truly creamy and smooth. Possibly, caramel-like notes support this creamy appearance, but Mamluk neither comes across as overly sweet nor intrusive. The gradually recognizable fruity scent component in the heart can likely be attributed to Osmanthus, bringing a certain complexity and is also wonderfully balanced. Furthermore, the fragrance creates a beautiful warmth and depth on the skin, has slightly woody notes, as well as a slightly earthy-dark touch. This is where the Oud comes into play. If Laos Oud was indeed used, there are no sour notes to be perceived, which makes the interplay even more harmonious. Only fruity and minimal smoky hints are favored in the scent.

In comparison, Ceylon has a more pronounced honey note, as it kicks off directly with slightly sour-animalistic notes. This makes it naturally more noticeable, but at the same time, it is clearly less pleasing. For some, it may also feel somewhat overwhelming or even chaotically arranged. If sensitive noses are already struggling with Mamluk, Ceylon could very well deliver the final blow. However, I do not want to delve into the wildly circulating "cheese anecdotes" or "cow stables" in the forum, as I do not really detect these in either fragrance. Mamluk has a relatively mild and tolerable Oud characteristic, whereas Ceylon's Malay Oud, paired with the truly animalistic musk in this case, pushes these specific notes a bit more to the forefront. Additionally, Mamluk lacks the amber/musk intensity, which never makes it unpleasantly piercing, and I really like that.

By at least 6 hours in, you can indeed notice how the two fragrances come closer together, especially regarding the vanilla sweetness. Mamluk remains consistently more floral. Ceylon is somewhat darker, denser, warmer, and above all, spicier. Mamluk manages without any spices. Both fragrances last comfortably throughout the day on the skin. On the test strip, they last several days. In the end, Mamluk remains a bit quieter. Personally, I would say that none of them are sillage monsters, just to put it out there. Sensitive noses will still have their fun and get their money's worth. :-)

Overall, I would consider Mamluk to be the floral, perhaps even more feminine, and definitely more finely balanced version of Ceylon. Those who want to experience the louder, edgier, and wilder version of these oriental creations will have to reach a bit deeper into their pockets.

For me, who generally tends to avoid honey fragrances, both are beautifully composed, as they are harmonious within themselves and thus wearable without being annoying or exhausting. Nevertheless, they are definitely not blind buys. A test is therefore highly recommended.