3
Dusty Ancient Books
On the one hand, I started pretty biased with this collection dedicated to vanilla--since, in general, I love semi-sweet and gourmand vanilla in desserts and creams, but I prefer spicy dried vanilla in fragrances. On the other hand, I was extremely eager to test the four pieces because of the rare notes of ink, papyrus, hawthorn, and vanilla mousse mixed among the ingredients. After trying them all for a few hours, both on the skin and on the strip of paper, vanilla is not cloying, but it is an excuse to build unique accords around the smell of this long, black pod. Vanilla Vibration uses an almost harsh, a little acidic, dark, mysterious, and sensual vanilla. It's not your typical edible vanilla. ZARA chose a bottle with dark blue liquid for this perfume, between Oxford Blue and Prussian Blue. Among the four collection's items, this is the less vanilla-like one. All of the powderiness comes from iris and violet and not from coumarin.
Vanilla Vibration shows a liquor and alcoholic opening, full of nuances of paper and wood, like the smell that permeates the air inside a historic library full of centuries-old books and ancient shelves. Iris and dusty violet are at the forefront, straight in the face like a punch. Dark, sandy, woody and resinous vanilla comes next. If vanilla were a tree, this would be the dry scent of its bark. There is a decisive papery edge, and dry and woody papyrus influences the behaviour of the perfume. It's the perfect mix of woody, resinous incense and dry, unsweetened vanilla. The first spray smells faintly of rice paper and newspaper but quickly fades to reveal the beauty beneath. Ancient, dusty books with parchment sheets and cork covers. Dry, papery and dusty are the facets that emerge most and subdue the vanilla. Yes, because vanilla is not intrusive. Instead, it's just a vibration, spicy and smoky, a vanilla that doesn't sweeten. There's never a moment when sweet or edible nuances escape the essence, which makes it so enjoyable. After a few minutes, I smell unripe green banana peel, wet and musky earth, chamomile infusion with aromatic and balsamic tones, green cardamom pods and the smell of rice paper. The presence of wood is so vivid, to the point that on several occasions in its evolution, it reminds me of Santal 33 Eau de Parfum, in which cedar replaces sandalwood. They have nothing in common, but I perceive the same vibrations emitted by the two blond woods, one creamy and the other semi-resinous.
The heart should reveal floral notes of violet and orange blossom. Unfortunately, my nose doesn't pick up the bittersweet citrus blossom. Instead, the strip of paper and my warm skin amplify the dewy, powdery sheen of violet leaves and buttery orris root, with no reminiscences of makeup or lipstick. Do not imagine Dior Homme (2005) just because of the overdosed iris. And the dark vanilla is already waiting in the wings to come on stage.
The fragrance seems to fade and then emits unburned incense-like qualities in a semi-powdery vanilla base. As the less smoky and more resinous notes fade, aromatic vanilla enters the scene, soft and spicy, neither heavy nor excessively sweet. I don't detect any sweetness in this fragrance, just woodiness and spiciness. Vanilla is the star here, and it starts spicier and woodier before turning into something more powdery and hazy. Not mentioned, I feel the presence of cedar chips, Iso-E Super, I bet, with its dry woodiness. I classify this fragrance as a dry, powdery, woody vanilla. The base transforms into a mixture of woody and savoury nuances. Now, the amber offers all its saltiness, an amber closer to ambergris without heat. There is no earth or moss, just wood and salt. What remains towards the finish is a vanilla caress after the papyrus and cardamom have faded, and the vanilla begins to warm on the skin.
The bottom line is that cardamom, iris, and papyrus are the keynotes, while all the others support them. I can wear it during the cool autumn day because it represents autumn, with those damp, woody foliage and papery and dusty reflections. This is the most intimate compared to the other pieces in the Vanilla collection. It doesn't scream, sticks to the skin, and performs weak and moderate. But I haven't tested it on clothes, which might help it last longer. Totally genderless, floral aspects are not feminine. I'm not put off by vanilla scents, but I like it when it's soft, spicy, dry, curious and wearable, vanilla for adults. It's fluffy, subtle and intimate with a reasonably linear journey, making it perfect for those looking for a pure vanilla that doesn't get too sweet or cake-like. This fragrance is intoxicating, soft, intense, exotic and resinous.
I'm basing my thoughts on a bottle I've owned since September 2023.
-Elysium
Vanilla Vibration shows a liquor and alcoholic opening, full of nuances of paper and wood, like the smell that permeates the air inside a historic library full of centuries-old books and ancient shelves. Iris and dusty violet are at the forefront, straight in the face like a punch. Dark, sandy, woody and resinous vanilla comes next. If vanilla were a tree, this would be the dry scent of its bark. There is a decisive papery edge, and dry and woody papyrus influences the behaviour of the perfume. It's the perfect mix of woody, resinous incense and dry, unsweetened vanilla. The first spray smells faintly of rice paper and newspaper but quickly fades to reveal the beauty beneath. Ancient, dusty books with parchment sheets and cork covers. Dry, papery and dusty are the facets that emerge most and subdue the vanilla. Yes, because vanilla is not intrusive. Instead, it's just a vibration, spicy and smoky, a vanilla that doesn't sweeten. There's never a moment when sweet or edible nuances escape the essence, which makes it so enjoyable. After a few minutes, I smell unripe green banana peel, wet and musky earth, chamomile infusion with aromatic and balsamic tones, green cardamom pods and the smell of rice paper. The presence of wood is so vivid, to the point that on several occasions in its evolution, it reminds me of Santal 33 Eau de Parfum, in which cedar replaces sandalwood. They have nothing in common, but I perceive the same vibrations emitted by the two blond woods, one creamy and the other semi-resinous.
The heart should reveal floral notes of violet and orange blossom. Unfortunately, my nose doesn't pick up the bittersweet citrus blossom. Instead, the strip of paper and my warm skin amplify the dewy, powdery sheen of violet leaves and buttery orris root, with no reminiscences of makeup or lipstick. Do not imagine Dior Homme (2005) just because of the overdosed iris. And the dark vanilla is already waiting in the wings to come on stage.
The fragrance seems to fade and then emits unburned incense-like qualities in a semi-powdery vanilla base. As the less smoky and more resinous notes fade, aromatic vanilla enters the scene, soft and spicy, neither heavy nor excessively sweet. I don't detect any sweetness in this fragrance, just woodiness and spiciness. Vanilla is the star here, and it starts spicier and woodier before turning into something more powdery and hazy. Not mentioned, I feel the presence of cedar chips, Iso-E Super, I bet, with its dry woodiness. I classify this fragrance as a dry, powdery, woody vanilla. The base transforms into a mixture of woody and savoury nuances. Now, the amber offers all its saltiness, an amber closer to ambergris without heat. There is no earth or moss, just wood and salt. What remains towards the finish is a vanilla caress after the papyrus and cardamom have faded, and the vanilla begins to warm on the skin.
The bottom line is that cardamom, iris, and papyrus are the keynotes, while all the others support them. I can wear it during the cool autumn day because it represents autumn, with those damp, woody foliage and papery and dusty reflections. This is the most intimate compared to the other pieces in the Vanilla collection. It doesn't scream, sticks to the skin, and performs weak and moderate. But I haven't tested it on clothes, which might help it last longer. Totally genderless, floral aspects are not feminine. I'm not put off by vanilla scents, but I like it when it's soft, spicy, dry, curious and wearable, vanilla for adults. It's fluffy, subtle and intimate with a reasonably linear journey, making it perfect for those looking for a pure vanilla that doesn't get too sweet or cake-like. This fragrance is intoxicating, soft, intense, exotic and resinous.
I'm basing my thoughts on a bottle I've owned since September 2023.
-Elysium
Elysium
