Par Amour pour Lui Anthologie by Lucien Ferrero 2019

With a rough but stimulating opening, the top crackles like Pop Rocks for the nose, Par Amour tingles in its top notes tingle, smelling at first like Dr. Pepper but soon thereafter, revealing the smell of fresh tarragon leaves and a dry hay accord, quite coumarinic, sweetly agrestic. No sooner than I detect the hay does a tobacco come through on my skin, and I am immediately reminded of SL Chergui.

The addition of a styrax-dominant leather does steer this in a different direction than Chergui, which I do appreciate a great deal. It is something I could wear on the first frosty day in late November, as I begin to wear sweaters and hunker down for winter. It has this granular texture; it has the feel of a Seurat landscape painting, pointillist perfume. This is one I'd definitely like to dedicate more time to.

While browsing for a tobacco scent, I came across Profumo's comment on "Par Amour pour Lui." He beautifully articulated this fragrance about a year ago and really got me hooked. Although he has already written everything essential about the scent, I want to add my two cents. Why? Because he forgot something. He didn’t tell us who Lui is!

Tobacco, hay, and leather are clearly at the forefront for him. In this trio, it sounds a bit like the "cowboy in the prairie" to me, and indeed, I perceive Lui that way too. Not a loud, gun-happy cowboy, but one who you better take seriously and respect. Lui is also a gentleman of the old school, who holds the door open for ladies and takes off his hat.
However, two things are still missing for a perfect cowboy cliché - a horse and whiskey.
Be that as it may, for me, Lui is a real cowboy, with or without a horse. And we’ll talk about the whiskey later. But let’s start from the beginning.

Imagine the most natural leather you’ve ever smelled and double the intensity. Can you do that? Then you have an idea of what to expect from the opening of "Par Amour pour Lui." I suspect that various leather notes were used for the scent, which, regarding my "Cowboy Lui brainchild," appear as boots, pistol holsters, and a saddle on Luis's shoulder (What is a cowboy without a horse? A saddlebagger. :D).
The sillage curve reaches its peak after about 5 minutes and then rapidly falls over the next 30 minutes. The leather initially feels quite hard, but with the declining sillage, it becomes softer and holds its own alongside the tobacco from the heart note until the end (about 7 hours).
A strong, slightly moist, and dark pipe tobacco here contrasts particularly naturally with a dry and light hay note.
Unmistakably, various herbs also play a role. However, I can only identify tarragon, which feels very noble and accompanies Lui throughout the entire progression. I would have guessed sage too, but that’s not listed.

Before I forget, I want to say something about the whiskey. First - whiskey is definitely not included. Second - you can certainly interpret it in. Various herbs and an almost overripe bergamot could be the cause. I only perceive this "whiskey note" sometimes, and then only as a "light flag."
However, I cannot connect "horse" with the scent at all. So what now?
My suggestion: The horse simply bolted and lost the whiskey in the gallop. In the process, the bottle shattered, and the wind now occasionally blows the "whiskey flag" in Lui's direction. So, how does that sound?

Is Lui something for you too? No idea! Maybe you know his Coursan "Feuilles de Tabac" from France. The same type, just clean-shaven and without leather, and a little more refined. If you like that, you’ll probably like Lui too. Lui is indeed "niche," but quite socially acceptable. I take him to work, shopping, home... everywhere.
In the evening in front of the TV, he might annoy you a bit since Lui is a true nature boy. Even on hot days, he can be a bit much.
Excuse me? On "hot" nights? Well, you’ll have to find that out for yourself. He certainly doesn’t lack testosterone.
He fits a woman about as well as a men's checkered shirt or a cowboy hat - so very well ;-)

One last question: Do you know Marion Robert Morrison, alias John Wayne, alias "The Duke"?
He was THE cowboy icon of Hollywood. Whether he was a good actor, I’ll leave that open. But he convincingly brought a heroic fighting spirit, paired with sharp wit and stoic calmness to the screen, so that milk boys like I was back in the 70s wanted to blindly follow in his footsteps. My cowboy gang in front of the big mirror in my parents' bedroom was so cool... now I WAS "The Duke"!!!
Today, a good 40 years after his death, heroes of his caliber are anything but "up-to-date." Even for me, the old westerns are long past. But with "Par Amour pour Lui," you have the opportunity to take a look into the prairie to meet the old hero. At least it worked for me.

Lui - I take off my hat!

Anyone interested in 'Par Amour pour Lui' should be particularly receptive to three fragrance notes: robust leather, aromatic tobacco, and straw-like hay.
These three main players dominate the scent throughout its entire course. However, not all of them enter the olfactory stage at once, but rather gradually. Initially, the fragrance opens with a very pronounced, spicy leather accord, without any citrus freshness, only underpinned by a hint of bitter bergamot: greetings from 'Tabac Blond', 'Knize Ten', and 'Cabochard'!

I haven't smelled such a distinctly dark-leather opening in a long time - fantastic! One should have a penchant for those old leather classics, as this leather is truly hearty, accentuated with plenty of styrax and aromatic spice (tarragon!). No fine suede leather, no beige-colored nubuck, and certainly no synthetic faux leather, no, thick, tanned cowhide, and quite rich.

Behind this furious leather opening, the other two dominant notes soon come to the fore. Together, they intone a rich and long-lasting triad that is wonderfully harmonious yet does not dissolve into an indefinable sound mush. Aromatic tobacco, with slight honey accents, remains just as recognizable as the brittle dryness of the hay, which shifts between grassy and woody nuances, along with the leathery, creaky spice of the opening.
The latter does lose a bit of its breath after a good while, allowing the tobacco/hay heart to settle on a milder, semi-oriental base of fine sandalwood, resinous labdanum, and subtly creamy tonka sweetness.
A hint of castoreum extends the leathery echo until the fragrance's conclusion, imparting a subtle erotic-animalistic aura. But fear not, this quiet animalism requires a certain intimacy with the wearer of the fragrance and unfolds its eroticism only in very close proximity.

When I first sprayed 'Par Amour pour Lui', I was instantly thrilled: the famous wow effect. At the same time, I thought to myself: I know this! And after some sniffing back and forth, it came to me: 'Or Black' by Pascal Morabito, specifically the old version. 'Par Amour pour Lui' is, in a way, a tribute to this masterpiece by Jean-Louis Szieuzac, which has a great reputation but unfortunately little dissemination. However, the homage is limited to a rather similar opening, the spicy leather accord, while the fragrances develop quite differently thereafter - 'Or Black' leans more towards an aromatic fougère, while 'Par Amour pour Lui' heads towards an oriental leather fragrance, following in the footsteps of the aforementioned 'Knize Ten' and 'Cabochard'.

These references to the great leather classics make Lucien Ferrero's fragrance more of a neo-classical work, similar to the creations of Vero Kern, or more recently those of Antonio Gardoni, like 'Maai' or 'Mem'. They all draw from the arsenal of the classic fragrance spectrum, avoiding all fashionable trends - no trace of Calone, Cashmeran, Ambroxan, and the like.
A fragrance like Quentin Bisch's 'B683' for Marc-Antoine Barrois, on the other hand, feels very modern, very contemporary, while 'Par Amour pour Lui' seems almost dated in comparison. Both are strikingly spicy leather fragrances, one launched in 2016, the other in 2019, yet they seem to be decades apart. Here: youthful casualness, quite fashion-conscious charm, with a slight hipster tendency, there: classic elegance and distinction.
I find this old-school touch, or rather: retro charm, fantastic, but I can imagine that it might disappoint some.
I can already see the objections: old-fashioned, 80s vibe, for the established gentleman over 50, and similar remarks.
Yes, all true, and yet not quite.
'Par Amour pour Lui' is a stylishly elegant men's fragrance that I would place alongside Patricia Nicolaï's 'New York' in terms of appearance and demeanor. Both share a great refinement in composition (you can practically smell the care with which the individual notes were calibrated!) and a rather formal chic, while intimate details only reveal themselves when cradled in the arms of the wearer.
And yes, 'Par Amour pour Lui' is truly an adult fragrance. Whether the adult man is 30, 40, 50, or older makes no difference; I just can't imagine it on youthful men, let alone boys. However, it does underscore a certain maturity and elegance beautifully!

By the way, Lucien Ferrero has previously created a fragrance with comparable characteristics: 'Itasca' for Lubin. A scent of similar format, but entirely different, leaning more towards a green-woody theme, while 'Par Amour pour Lui' distinctly has a brownish tone due to leather, tobacco, and hay.

The so-called sillage also corresponds more to that of a classic gentleman's fragrance: strong at the outset, but only temporarily filling the room, then remaining within arm's length for a very long time, ending the evening in a distinctly sensual skin scent.
Thus, the fragrance develops a persistent, close presence to the wearer, but avoids the typical ego-shooter penetrance found in many modern fragrances due to a lack of sweetness and stylish synthetics.

Can it also be worn by women? Yes, certainly, provided the potential wearer has a penchant for dry, spicy-woody leather fragrances with a masculine DNA.
As mentioned, 'Cabochard' is not miles away.

The design of the bottle and the quite voluminous box is also beautiful: classically simple elegance. No trace of affected playfulness or even convoluted exuberance - entirely in line with the content.

If I were to characterize this fragrance with just one word, and I have already used it often enough, it could only be one: classic!