Jono's craftsmanship has, according to many, improved significantly. Considering how sluggish the brand's launch was, marked by plenty of mediocrity, this was not really to be expected in 2022.
Some brands disappear from the self-made artisan cosmos as quickly as they launch their first scent from the infamous nothing and suddenly sink into a rat hole. Despite all the naysayers, Jono persevered, found his way, and did not give up. That earns someone like me respect!
The mad rush for the brand, as has been observed internationally for over a year now, was nonetheless not foreseeable for me, given how meager the first three releases were at their core. In the scene, they were only noted as a footnote, if at all. The feedback was rather restrained beyond personal congratulations on the brand's launch, making the development until now all the more exciting.
Similar to Arthur (Jinx) or Mathew (Lost Tribe), it was, as so often, the enthusiasm for the brand Ensar Oud that eventually paved the way for his own brand, even if he subsequently preferred to distance himself from this, his role model, rather than continue to appear as their brand ambassador and withdrew from corresponding forums. The rest is "OudFest" history.
His signature is now unmistakable, which finds more recognition in these circles than some ominously announced major raw material offensives that shake the artisan throne yet merely imitate the rustling of some shadowy plants.
When considering the majority of his fragrances, they are often composed around spicy-ambered to spirited-fermented and/or fruity-sweet scent focuses. And it is hardly surprising that especially the latter meets with so much favor (in the West), as this fragrance direction has become the Mecca of the popular niche over the years, and the ranks of those searching for it are relatively tightly closed; an aspect that currently plays into Jono's hands.
Midwinter Storm begins with a dry powderiness, immersed in a black fruity molasses that hardens into a balsamic sweetness over time. Natural Jonone or Irone are not only costly but also prominently incremented in
Midwinter Storm; so strong that they overemphasize themselves and taper sharply, a game on a knife's edge. The waxy resolution, which exudes a hint of cosmetics (vanilla, violet), develops a scratchy note through the fruit acid sting, which is covered up by plenty of creamy Santalol, a well-known sandalwood oil component that, for example, imparts its special aroma to the aroma chemical Dreamwood™.
The fruity connection, as natural as it may appear in "Midwinter Storm | Folkwinds," especially at the beginning, reminds one of perfumed baby powder. Unlike the self-proclaimed street brawlers from the sort-of-niche, the fruit-focused approach by Jono is presumably a natural one, without annoying hair gel undertones. Unfortunately, the combination with the floral components creates that damned "Hubba Bubba" gum effect, likely based on the use of lotus flower; Santalol compensates for what the violet fabric softener polish perpetuates, although it increasingly clouds the base and stretches the sweet components horizontally, like using too much crème fraîche in the roast sauce.
The oud components appear largely mundane and manifest exclusively in the background. Thus, especially in the later scent development, a balsamic-greenish facet with a slight coniferous note emerges, which could only be attributed to them, but overall appears a bit too fresh and shapeless. This does not create a significant counterbalance to the creamy sandalwood melt, which hopelessly overshadows the entire base towards the end; it should have been significantly higher dosed (oud), if not must. As a result, unfortunately, a somewhat too generically sandalwood-like quality prevails in the floral-fruity framed base with sublimely flashing ethereal effects. Certainly not a bad scent, but to me, it is too lavishly creamy in the base and, for long stretches, simply too sweetly seasoned.
What Jono has released with
Midwinter Storm is undoubtedly the result of a vigorous refinement process - no question about it. And the past has shown that the results of such efforts can indeed bear fruit, as evidenced by the quite successful, spicy-gourmand
By-and-By and, with reservations, also "Jasper no Kodō | Folkwinds." He often refers to previous iterations that serve as a model for what follows (here:
Midwinter Dream).
He himself understands his approach as holistic; the entire production chain from raw material composition and co-extractions is based on this. But it often revolves too much around the same axis; the noticeably increased output lately speaks volumes and at least hints at a certain tendency that has already triggered a FOMO effect among other illustrious names from the scene.
Jono would be wise to skip this notch and take other paths. Currently, the market is more speculative than ever, and bubbles burst faster than one's own wallet would like.
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In conclusion, a few words, so to speak, as a warning against possible misunderstandings, of which I claim they are already present: the "purple" effect reported here is not induced by oud! Jono himself does not even claim this, as one might assume in light of some (especially English-speaking) comments.
To speak of violet or purple oud or similar terminologies is somewhat misleading, as it creates expectations (of the contained oud) that the fragrance cannot fulfill.
Midwinter Storm exhibits neither the associated, incense-specific facet that certain oud chips develop when heated, nor a certain oud oil profile (of the same scale) that encompasses something fundamentally different than merely a sweetly caressed, somehow violet-fruity tinted woodiness.
But similar to the recently held Kinam debate, people seem to latch onto such thematic storage points, especially since the Sultan Qaboo debate has slowly subsided and there is a demand for new buzzwords that are chased through the digital ether. Just as white is not colorless but a refuge of the colored world, oud (then) cannot simply be oud; it is Kyara, Kinam, and so much more.
Generally, such developments seem inevitable and must ultimately be accepted, even if they should not go uncommented, as one wishes for a contrary direction. But such imbalances, as is well known, point to their own dynamics and answers.