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Leather-Oud MDCI Style: no risk - no fun
As a student of biosciences, one often faces identity crises and existential fears, especially during very frustrating times like writing a bachelor's thesis.
Somehow, I then came up with the idea to write to Claude Marchal and simply ask him how he came up with the idea of creating perfumes or having them created, becoming the Creative Director of his own brand.
The short version of his answer was basically that while he earned well in his previous job (he worked for a company that builds private jets if I interpreted that correctly), it eventually became too much for him. And since he had always liked perfume in some way, he wanted to do that!
"Sometimes, you have to make very risky choices in life. They can either fail or reward you a lot."
Well, that's certainly universally valid, but still motivating.
The connection to Cuir Garamante is as follows: By chance, I found out through a post in a Facebook group that MDCI is launching 2 new fragrances at the end of November.
So I thought I would email Claude Marchal again, just to know when it would be available for purchase. And of course, to ask how he came up with the idea of creating a leather scent.
He said he wanted to create a leather fragrance because he never really liked leather scents and therefore never dealt with them much, but it would be a good addition to the fragrances that had already been created.
Since I argued exactly the same way during my interview for the Master's in Plant Biology, I found that sympathetic.
Based on the previous fragrances, I was convinced that the scent would be a hit anyway. I then received samples of Nuit Andalouse and Cuir Garamante and was very surprised by Cuir Garamante.
At first, I thought I would be greeted by a leather scent like 1740 - Marquis de Sade or Cuir Ottoman, but Cuir Garamante is only relatively leathery at the beginning.
It's more of a gentle, soft leather accord that is accompanied by spices and oud.
The leather is quite subtle and identifiable, but without smelling tarry (compare Cuir Ottoman) or fermented (compare Aoud Cuir d'Arabie or the first seconds of 1740 - MdS). Nevertheless, the leather accord has that feeling described by Chandler Burr in his review: a sun-warmed leather sandal that has fallen from the perfumed foot of a pretty harem girl.
Saffron, nutmeg, and rose seem to make up the spicy part here; this accord vaguely reminds me of the one from Terry de Gunzburg's "Terryfic Oud," but without cumin and thus without any hint of unwashed armpits.
I can hardly identify other components right away, but since oud is missing from the fragrance pyramid, I'm not sure if it's trustworthy. So there could be cumin in it after all, or at least something that can be interpreted as cumin.
Up close, Cuir Garamante smells less like a leather fragrance and more like a gentle oud and spices with a slightly animalistic touch (from the leather).
The scent trail, however, is phenomenal; here, all three components seem to be equally represented, making the leather more recognizable and conveying that feeling described above.
The longevity is spectacular; when I tried to wash it off after the first test, it didn't work despite soap. I could still perceive it on my wrist the next morning. Anyone who has smelled all the other MDCIs will notice that these fragrances are inconspicuously powerful and possess a perfect balance between strength and control.
And Cuir Garamante is a bit of everything, but not too much of anything. And yet the overall composition is polarizing, but coherent in itself.
Claude Marchal said Cuir Garamante has more power than what has been released so far (IB, AT, and CP), hence he was a bit skeptical. Additionally, he expected more criticism since every good perfume house has a good leather scent and everyone is currently launching an oud fragrance.
However, I believe that Cuir Garamante does not smell like hasty work; I am sure Claude Marchal searched long enough until he smelled what he wanted:
"I am happy with my (risky?) choice!"
So am I.
Somehow, I then came up with the idea to write to Claude Marchal and simply ask him how he came up with the idea of creating perfumes or having them created, becoming the Creative Director of his own brand.
The short version of his answer was basically that while he earned well in his previous job (he worked for a company that builds private jets if I interpreted that correctly), it eventually became too much for him. And since he had always liked perfume in some way, he wanted to do that!
"Sometimes, you have to make very risky choices in life. They can either fail or reward you a lot."
Well, that's certainly universally valid, but still motivating.
The connection to Cuir Garamante is as follows: By chance, I found out through a post in a Facebook group that MDCI is launching 2 new fragrances at the end of November.
So I thought I would email Claude Marchal again, just to know when it would be available for purchase. And of course, to ask how he came up with the idea of creating a leather scent.
He said he wanted to create a leather fragrance because he never really liked leather scents and therefore never dealt with them much, but it would be a good addition to the fragrances that had already been created.
Since I argued exactly the same way during my interview for the Master's in Plant Biology, I found that sympathetic.
Based on the previous fragrances, I was convinced that the scent would be a hit anyway. I then received samples of Nuit Andalouse and Cuir Garamante and was very surprised by Cuir Garamante.
At first, I thought I would be greeted by a leather scent like 1740 - Marquis de Sade or Cuir Ottoman, but Cuir Garamante is only relatively leathery at the beginning.
It's more of a gentle, soft leather accord that is accompanied by spices and oud.
The leather is quite subtle and identifiable, but without smelling tarry (compare Cuir Ottoman) or fermented (compare Aoud Cuir d'Arabie or the first seconds of 1740 - MdS). Nevertheless, the leather accord has that feeling described by Chandler Burr in his review: a sun-warmed leather sandal that has fallen from the perfumed foot of a pretty harem girl.
Saffron, nutmeg, and rose seem to make up the spicy part here; this accord vaguely reminds me of the one from Terry de Gunzburg's "Terryfic Oud," but without cumin and thus without any hint of unwashed armpits.
I can hardly identify other components right away, but since oud is missing from the fragrance pyramid, I'm not sure if it's trustworthy. So there could be cumin in it after all, or at least something that can be interpreted as cumin.
Up close, Cuir Garamante smells less like a leather fragrance and more like a gentle oud and spices with a slightly animalistic touch (from the leather).
The scent trail, however, is phenomenal; here, all three components seem to be equally represented, making the leather more recognizable and conveying that feeling described above.
The longevity is spectacular; when I tried to wash it off after the first test, it didn't work despite soap. I could still perceive it on my wrist the next morning. Anyone who has smelled all the other MDCIs will notice that these fragrances are inconspicuously powerful and possess a perfect balance between strength and control.
And Cuir Garamante is a bit of everything, but not too much of anything. And yet the overall composition is polarizing, but coherent in itself.
Claude Marchal said Cuir Garamante has more power than what has been released so far (IB, AT, and CP), hence he was a bit skeptical. Additionally, he expected more criticism since every good perfume house has a good leather scent and everyone is currently launching an oud fragrance.
However, I believe that Cuir Garamante does not smell like hasty work; I am sure Claude Marchal searched long enough until he smelled what he wanted:
"I am happy with my (risky?) choice!"
So am I.
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The Overrated
In my opinion, Aventus is one of the most overrated fragrances at the moment. I have to say, it somehow fits the absolutely stereotypical men's fragrance: a bit of freshness, citrus notes in the top, a leathery-smoky base with a good dose of musk.
Furthermore, I am slowly becoming sure that these different batches are indeed real. The very first batch I smelled back in 2010 was very fruity, that pineapple aspect was there, and there was quite a decent dose of pink pepper in it (possibly what is listed here as juniper). Nevertheless, you could really smell the pepper.
Now I own a batch that is very smoky and leathery. At this point, I have to retract my comparison to Tierra Del Fuego by La Martina, because where that one becomes very green, Aventus becomes smoky, leathery... which is most likely due to birch tar (or substances that simulate such an accord, as real birch tar is said to be unhealthy).
The quality, however, is surprisingly very good.
I usually apply 3 sprays, one on the chest and one on each side of the neck (next to the Adam's apple on these pulse points... whatever they may be called). The other day, while waiting for a friend in a store, when he finally arrived, he said to me: "What do you think about the whole store smelling like you?" - "What, really?!" - "Yeah, man. It smells really good, but it's just too much."
As a scientist, one must always reproduce an experiment, so the next morning after showering, I applied 3 sprays of Aventus, got dressed, and first walked down to the mailbox to get the mail.
On the way back up, I then heard 2 girls coming down the stairs.
"Mhmmm, it smells really good down here, like a man!" - "I don't smell anything?" - "Yes, yes, it smells really good!"
I stood there grinning at the bottom of the stairs, waiting to see who was coming down. And it was actually the prettier one of the two.
But since this story doesn't have a sexy ending, back to the fragrance: it performs really, really well. I am not used to that from Creed. With many Creed fragrances, I also feel that they dull my nose in no time.
With Aventus, however, I perceive this smoky-leathery accord and musk, and that for more than 12 hours (and as long as I can smell these components, I know that the complete fragrance is still there and I am definitely leaving a scent trail behind me).
I think Aventus is a good fragrance. It is extremely versatile, wearable at any time and for any occasion, and has very good performance. The scent itself has contrast (juicy, fruity & citrusy vs. smoky, leathery, and musky).
So basically, my checklist for a good perfume is completely checked off.
Another (small) plus is that many women are crazy about Aventus. However, I find myself between two worlds; from my academic environment (meaning my fellow students) mostly do not like Aventus, saying it is too overpowering and too strong, while the women from my current professional field (the part-time job in perfumery) absolutely love it, many say there is no better men's fragrance (which can again be attributed to a limited fragrance horizon, which shouldn't be the case for a sales associate).
I am writing this comment only because I feel that with Aventus, the popularity among women - and of course the fishing for compliments - is the main reason why Aventus is praised to the skies.
Aventus is indeed unusual enough to have a polarizing effect; there are people who like it and people who do not.
I find Aventus "good." It is a good fragrance. And I think that is how Aventus should be viewed.
Furthermore, I am slowly becoming sure that these different batches are indeed real. The very first batch I smelled back in 2010 was very fruity, that pineapple aspect was there, and there was quite a decent dose of pink pepper in it (possibly what is listed here as juniper). Nevertheless, you could really smell the pepper.
Now I own a batch that is very smoky and leathery. At this point, I have to retract my comparison to Tierra Del Fuego by La Martina, because where that one becomes very green, Aventus becomes smoky, leathery... which is most likely due to birch tar (or substances that simulate such an accord, as real birch tar is said to be unhealthy).
The quality, however, is surprisingly very good.
I usually apply 3 sprays, one on the chest and one on each side of the neck (next to the Adam's apple on these pulse points... whatever they may be called). The other day, while waiting for a friend in a store, when he finally arrived, he said to me: "What do you think about the whole store smelling like you?" - "What, really?!" - "Yeah, man. It smells really good, but it's just too much."
As a scientist, one must always reproduce an experiment, so the next morning after showering, I applied 3 sprays of Aventus, got dressed, and first walked down to the mailbox to get the mail.
On the way back up, I then heard 2 girls coming down the stairs.
"Mhmmm, it smells really good down here, like a man!" - "I don't smell anything?" - "Yes, yes, it smells really good!"
I stood there grinning at the bottom of the stairs, waiting to see who was coming down. And it was actually the prettier one of the two.
But since this story doesn't have a sexy ending, back to the fragrance: it performs really, really well. I am not used to that from Creed. With many Creed fragrances, I also feel that they dull my nose in no time.
With Aventus, however, I perceive this smoky-leathery accord and musk, and that for more than 12 hours (and as long as I can smell these components, I know that the complete fragrance is still there and I am definitely leaving a scent trail behind me).
I think Aventus is a good fragrance. It is extremely versatile, wearable at any time and for any occasion, and has very good performance. The scent itself has contrast (juicy, fruity & citrusy vs. smoky, leathery, and musky).
So basically, my checklist for a good perfume is completely checked off.
Another (small) plus is that many women are crazy about Aventus. However, I find myself between two worlds; from my academic environment (meaning my fellow students) mostly do not like Aventus, saying it is too overpowering and too strong, while the women from my current professional field (the part-time job in perfumery) absolutely love it, many say there is no better men's fragrance (which can again be attributed to a limited fragrance horizon, which shouldn't be the case for a sales associate).
I am writing this comment only because I feel that with Aventus, the popularity among women - and of course the fishing for compliments - is the main reason why Aventus is praised to the skies.
Aventus is indeed unusual enough to have a polarizing effect; there are people who like it and people who do not.
I find Aventus "good." It is a good fragrance. And I think that is how Aventus should be viewed.
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Smoothness in a Bottle
I always struggle to find a suitable introduction for fragrance reviews, but after finally treating myself to this scent after a long period of hesitation, it's about time for a comment.
Uden starts off as a fresh, sweet citrus fragrance with white flowers and a few woods, similar to Sculpture Homme by Nikos or Wood & Spices by Montale.
In the first few minutes with the sample back then, I was quite tense, having that latent fear of having just bought an overpriced Sculpture Homme.
However, interestingly, Uden takes a 180° turn towards the sweet and warm. The floral citrus notes do not completely disappear; instead, they recede into the background and make way for rum, coffee, amber, musk, and vanilla.
Rum and coffee are both kept subtle, but they give this sweet base a certain volume and an additional warmth; the comparison with Lolita Lempika Au Masculin is even justified here, as this element can also be found there (or in Givenchy's Play Intense).
I absolutely cannot understand the claim that Uden is uneven; to me, every single component feels soft and rounded, thus appearing natural. Sculpture Homme and Wood & Spices are relatively similar but lack this twist and come across as rather glassy and unrefined compared to Uden; in fact, I get headaches from those two.
This contrast in Uden is very nice, sporty, fresh, and energetic at the beginning, and warm & inviting towards the end. Imagine going for a jog with your girlfriend in the cool evening air (the sporty, fresh part), then taking a hot shower together and spending the rest of the evening in front of a fireplace with hot chocolate.
In summary, we find in Uden a very interesting cold-warm contrast that radiates both "athlete" and "cuddle bear".
The quality of Uden is also very convincing to me; it is very long-lasting and intense without becoming annoying or overpowering.
This makes the fragrance quite economical. When you spend €4/ml and can still feel like a child excited about your new scent, you realize that XJ does a lot of things right.
In any case, Uden meets all the criteria I expect from a good perfume: good performance, beautiful raw materials... and well, the compliments from women will surely follow. ;-P
Oh, and similar perfumes:
- Montale Wood & Spices
- Nikos Sculpture Homme
- Paloma Picasso Minotaure
Uden starts off as a fresh, sweet citrus fragrance with white flowers and a few woods, similar to Sculpture Homme by Nikos or Wood & Spices by Montale.
In the first few minutes with the sample back then, I was quite tense, having that latent fear of having just bought an overpriced Sculpture Homme.
However, interestingly, Uden takes a 180° turn towards the sweet and warm. The floral citrus notes do not completely disappear; instead, they recede into the background and make way for rum, coffee, amber, musk, and vanilla.
Rum and coffee are both kept subtle, but they give this sweet base a certain volume and an additional warmth; the comparison with Lolita Lempika Au Masculin is even justified here, as this element can also be found there (or in Givenchy's Play Intense).
I absolutely cannot understand the claim that Uden is uneven; to me, every single component feels soft and rounded, thus appearing natural. Sculpture Homme and Wood & Spices are relatively similar but lack this twist and come across as rather glassy and unrefined compared to Uden; in fact, I get headaches from those two.
This contrast in Uden is very nice, sporty, fresh, and energetic at the beginning, and warm & inviting towards the end. Imagine going for a jog with your girlfriend in the cool evening air (the sporty, fresh part), then taking a hot shower together and spending the rest of the evening in front of a fireplace with hot chocolate.
In summary, we find in Uden a very interesting cold-warm contrast that radiates both "athlete" and "cuddle bear".
The quality of Uden is also very convincing to me; it is very long-lasting and intense without becoming annoying or overpowering.
This makes the fragrance quite economical. When you spend €4/ml and can still feel like a child excited about your new scent, you realize that XJ does a lot of things right.
In any case, Uden meets all the criteria I expect from a good perfume: good performance, beautiful raw materials... and well, the compliments from women will surely follow. ;-P
Oh, and similar perfumes:
- Montale Wood & Spices
- Nikos Sculpture Homme
- Paloma Picasso Minotaure
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"I’m looking for a perfume that rocks." - "Dirty English."
This "search query" has come up several times here in the forum. And most of the time, someone was quicker with this answer than I could be.
Dirty English is a perfume that rocks.
But why? Because it combines almost everything you associate with "rockers": fresh cigarette smoke, a bit of leather, a bit of oil, a hint of a motorcycle... It's quite remarkable. I also recognize the references to Gucci pour Homme I, but I perceive Dirty English as smoother; unfortunately, it is also a bit less long-lasting.
A long time ago - when I had no idea and fragrances like Cool Water, Acqua Di Gio, and Le Male defined my horizon - I had a sample of it and thought to myself, "Why would anyone want to smell like incense and leather? That's not common; one should smell fresh and well-groomed!"
About a year ago, I learned that the production of Dirty English had been discontinued. It seems to be true; you can only find it on the internet now. Occasionally, you might find one lying around at TK Maxx.
Today, I took the opportunity, after seeing online that 30 euros for a 100ml bottle is actually a very good deal.
I also found the sample again and am now sure: The scent rocks and is - in my opinion - the olfactory definition of "rebellious".
Why Dirty English is also a small wonder on a chemical level is very well illustrated by Chandler Burr; in one of his lectures, he discusses Dirty English quite effectively. This also helps to understand the beauty of the scent.
The lecture can be found at: http://vimeo.com/6497957
A very underrated incense/leather scent.
Dirty English is a perfume that rocks.
But why? Because it combines almost everything you associate with "rockers": fresh cigarette smoke, a bit of leather, a bit of oil, a hint of a motorcycle... It's quite remarkable. I also recognize the references to Gucci pour Homme I, but I perceive Dirty English as smoother; unfortunately, it is also a bit less long-lasting.
A long time ago - when I had no idea and fragrances like Cool Water, Acqua Di Gio, and Le Male defined my horizon - I had a sample of it and thought to myself, "Why would anyone want to smell like incense and leather? That's not common; one should smell fresh and well-groomed!"
About a year ago, I learned that the production of Dirty English had been discontinued. It seems to be true; you can only find it on the internet now. Occasionally, you might find one lying around at TK Maxx.
Today, I took the opportunity, after seeing online that 30 euros for a 100ml bottle is actually a very good deal.
I also found the sample again and am now sure: The scent rocks and is - in my opinion - the olfactory definition of "rebellious".
Why Dirty English is also a small wonder on a chemical level is very well illustrated by Chandler Burr; in one of his lectures, he discusses Dirty English quite effectively. This also helps to understand the beauty of the scent.
The lecture can be found at: http://vimeo.com/6497957
A very underrated incense/leather scent.
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Coffee Rose
When Tom Ford's "Jardin Noir" was released, I was particularly curious about Cafe Rose. Coffee and rose were a combination that hadn't really existed before - what I got, however, was simply a rose scent with extremely subtle sweet undertones, more from patchouli than from coffee. It was also very linear and perhaps a tad too feminine.
Now there is Intense Cafe. A quite authentic coffee note, without the harsh roasted aromas like in New Haarlem, cushioned by not-so-obvious vanilla and a slightly feminine facet, the rose.
I liked it immediately. What bothered me was the thought that this was simply "Roses Musk" with coffee added. It could well be that the scent approaches Roses Musk after a few hours of wear. Fortunately, it does not.
The similarity to Roses Musk had bothered me a bit, but eventually I realized: Essentially, Intense Cafe is exactly what I would have expected from Tom Ford's Cafe Rose last year!
The components of rose, coffee, and vanilla all show their smooth side and are very well blended together.
Even though Montale as a fragrance house seems a bit shady to me, Intense Cafe is nonetheless a very good and innovative combo.
Now there is Intense Cafe. A quite authentic coffee note, without the harsh roasted aromas like in New Haarlem, cushioned by not-so-obvious vanilla and a slightly feminine facet, the rose.
I liked it immediately. What bothered me was the thought that this was simply "Roses Musk" with coffee added. It could well be that the scent approaches Roses Musk after a few hours of wear. Fortunately, it does not.
The similarity to Roses Musk had bothered me a bit, but eventually I realized: Essentially, Intense Cafe is exactly what I would have expected from Tom Ford's Cafe Rose last year!
The components of rose, coffee, and vanilla all show their smooth side and are very well blended together.
Even though Montale as a fragrance house seems a bit shady to me, Intense Cafe is nonetheless a very good and innovative combo.
2 Comments
