Uden Xerjoff 2009

Well well this was highly unexpected. I ordered this set of samples from Xerjoff and I added Uden because the name probably stuck from a review somewhere or something, I don’t recall. I didn’t have any high hopes on it though, Naxos is “the one” anyway, right?

Was I wrong or what? First spray and I’m like okay…. Nice, freshly squeezed lemon. But then after a while it begins evolving into this rich, slightly sweet, slightly dry amber vanilla goodness. Somewhere halfway, about 4 hours in, it starts whafting these dry tabacco-esque whiffs. Although the note is not listed, this strikes me more as a tobacco-scent than Naxos. Maybe it’s the dryness of the woody notes. Anyway it’s definitely got the x-factor to me. That stuff that makes your brain pop out.

Sillage is a bit weird. One time I get unsurpassed projection, even smelling it very well when leaving a room and re-entering. The other I barely smell it, getting overruled by other smells around me. Ah well as long as I smell it myself I’m good. I can smell it all day long so that’s good as well.

Am I getting a full bottle of this? Hell yeah.

At the time of this writing, Uden is ranked 17th in unisex perfumes here on Parfumo. I've had an official sample for over a year by now, but I never really gave it much attention, focusing on testing other juice I considered a priority. However, outside of a few mentions here on Parfumo, I never heard Uden being mentioned anywhere else, including social media. And for a fragrance seemingly so popular, I expected at least a few feats in some videos on the internet. But nothing. So when Uden's turn came to go through my testing process, I found it nothing more than pretty... and boring.

First, you're met with some citric vibrancy from a mix of grapefruit and lemon which don't last all that long and settle down for a very soft mix of creaminess derived from the sandalwood with the tiniest sweetness from rum, but it's not enough to really call it boozy. To my nose, I pretty much don't get any coffee, which is likely drowned in soft vanilla which bases the scent with sweet creaminess and a dosage of clean musks garnished on top. That's it, that's all I get. It's so simple and stale that I am seriously considering getting another sample, as maybe the one I have is off...? I'll update the review if I ever discover that was the case, but for now, this is all I get. And fair, it's pretty, but just so lackluster of character and just so soft that the notes struggle to stand out.

Hence, it was also quite tough to test the overall performance of Uden. Longevity seemed to tap out around the 8 hour mark, which is a pretty good showing. But projection was substantially quieter, yet I half-expected it to be even softer. It managed to get noticed around by others for the first hour without ever becoming obtrusive, and it was still gently projecting 2 hours in. From that point onwards, however, it would get harder and harder to spot, and it would settle into a skin scent by the ~4 hour mark.

You can rest assured that this is one of the friendliest and most wearable pieces of niche perfumery you'll come across. It's hardly too sweet to reserve if only for evening summer wear; it's perfectly wearable at any time throughout the year and largely in any context. However, I'd certainly look elsewhere for a dress-up occasion; just too boring for me to wear to a wedding. For daily errands and such? Spray away.

I'm anything but convinced. For the €200 it goes for, I simply don't find Uden worthwhile. At that price, I'd expect more fullness, more uniqueness, a more enticing DNA without being this bland. It's hard to hate, but it's hard to be impressed by it, and seeing Sculpture Homme Eau de Toilette being compared to Uden whilst going for one-tenth of the price largely seals the deal. But I'll keep in mind the small possibility that I was subject to a bad sample, and I'll likely acquire a new one some time in the future. But if it's the same... the my conclusion stays the same.

Overall Rating: 5.8/10

Strong lemony citrus opening, almost photorealistic. Takes about 20 minutes before that rum comes on strong and lends a sweet, boozy accord to the scent profile. After a couple hours, a slight powdery vanilla and woody accords creep in. All around lovely to my nose, not a simple fragrance, and the performance is excellent too. Strong projection for 3-5hr, longevity 10-12hr. Versatile, though that boozy accord makes me hesitant to wear it in formal situation or in blazing hot weather.

Basically a slightly more complex, better-performing Chanel Allure Homme or CAH Edition Blanche. The Chanels lack the Rum accord and have no hint of powderyness. More boozy and citric, less woody and vanillic than Uden Overdose. Kinda similar to Richwood as well, without the florals.

That opening citrus will calm down and the blend will become sweeter, fresher, and spicier. Rum, is the first note to let itself be known, alongside that vanilla creaminess.

That citrus sharpness will calm down dramatically. In the mix, will come the woody notes. Oud and sandalwood. To my nose, the latter is the stronger of the two. Again, I love a good pairing of that with vanilla and the lemon top.

Sweet vanilla, boozy woods is basically the finish with Uden. Really quite beautiful and a pleasure to pick up hints of when the fragrance begins to fade.

Seasonally, this is more geared toward autumn or spring, in my opinion. It does have a heaviness that makes it too much for the daytime in summer, but I had good results with it in the evening.

Do I like this fragrance? It’s one of my personal favorites. So, yeah. Is it for everyone? Probably not.

I love a good vanilla and citrus scent and this is among the best that I’ve encountered. If that’s not your thing, you can pass on Uden. If it sounds somewhat intriguing to you, I’d track down a sample, to see how you enjoy it.

Personally, I think that this is a masterpiece. The smell is just outstanding. It took everything that I liked about the Chanel fragrance and made it better. Plus, it goes in its own direction. The rum and coffee really help to set it apart.

Additionally, it’s not as dry with the vetiver. Much creamier and the citrus notes are great here.

The performance is good. Not elite, but I don’t have too many complaints about it. But, the scent is so delightful to me, that I do with that it kept going on and on.

As of now, I haven’t splurged on a full bottle, but it is definitely on the list of one that I want for my own collection. It’s just pricey.

Regards

Totally unisex in my opinion and absolutely inoffensive.
It wears very close to the skin, and the softness and roundness of the fragrance is in sharp contrast with the angular cold metallic physique of the bottle.

Surprised to see this classified as an Aromatic Spicy since to my nose, it is a rather obvious Citrus scent, with a discreet Play-Doh vibe hovering in the background.

Nothing groundbreaking, but perfectly pleasant and wearable (think 4711).
Would I fork out for a full price bottle?
No.