BeatriceA
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BeatriceA
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No ode
I promised to compare the previous Ode variants with the new fragrance. The first Ode ( "Shalimar Ode à la Vanille | Guerlain" ) I missed, the second and third I have.
The competition is not entirely fair, after all, the new fragrance is not an "ode". It was wise of Guerlain to call the new fragrance no longer "Ode à la Vanille": so you go out of the way of the comparison.
The jury is also biased: a Shalimar wearer who particularly appreciates the top note in "Shalimar" - the top note that puts off so many.
For comparison compete:
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route du Mexique | Guerlain"
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route de Madagascar | Guerlain"
"Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain"
Bourbon vanilla bean.
START.
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route du Mexique | Guerlain" starts with lots of bergamot and distinct animalic hints - and stays that way for a while.
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route de Madagascar | Guerlain" quickly loses the bergamot and is bright, radiant and spicy from the start.
"Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain" seems lame and bland next to it, the bergamot is completely missing, the civet only hints.
The vanilla bean smells dark, woody, oily, absolutely unsweet - and actually not vanillig.
No, "Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain" does not smell like a vanilla bean: the dark, woody-oily is not present, the scent is equally warm and soft.
AFTER 10 MIN. the civet in "Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain" is pronounced enough to stand up to other scents. I like the fragrance at this stage - but its competitors even more.
AFTER ONE HOUR, "Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route du Mexique | Guerlain" becomes less animalic, vanilla emerges - and remains. After two hours, you notice it clearly.
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route de Madagascar | Guerlain" is still radiant-spicy, vanilla is also perceptible here. Since I know that the fragrance will remain so luminous and not too sweet until the end, I take it out of the comparison now. This was and is my favorite variant.
The civet of the "Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain" is still there.
3. HOUR.
Mexique becomes sweeter. The citrus is still there, but is almost covered by vanilla. Chocolate I have never smelled in the fragrance, but incense is discreetly perceptible.
"Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain" loses civet and becomes more flat.
Vanilla bean has a fragrance development! You can guess vanilla as you know it. Still wholly unsweet. We now also leave out the pod, it would unfold its vanilla soul only "diluted" in the dough.
BASIS.
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route de Madagascar | Guerlain" is vanillig, rather spicy than resinous.
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route du Mexique | Guerlain" is sweeter, but also more resinous. Almost too sweet for me, since I like it resinous, I still like the scent.
Vanilla bean remains vanilla bean.
"Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain" unfortunately weakens. The fragrance has become a pure vanilla scent, soft, round, not particularly sweet - but only vanilla. A very nice vanilla, with a bit of wool in it - but so can the others. If I want vanilla, I can reach for "Collection Extraordinaire - Orchidée Vanille | Van Cleef & Arpels", which "Vanille Planifolia" reminds me of towards the base.
CONCLUSION: Guerlain has done everything right. A small beast in the top note to make the Shalimar lovers mild. Small enough not to ver-stimmen the non-lovers. A round, pleasant vanilla fragrance, cozy and easy to wear.
The phrase "Finally a Shalimar for me!" you will hear more often, which is perfectly fine, you just have to be aware that here "Shalimar" is only in the name. We know that by now, many Shalimar flankers have little in common with the original - and "Black Opium" is not "Opium" at all.
I will use up my bottling, this is a nice fragrance. Would I buy a bottle? At the current price certainly not. Since "Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route du Mexique | Guerlain" has become much cheaper after a while, I would wait and see.
And the winner of the contest? "Lyra (Eau de Toilette) | Alain Delon" . Finest Guerlain vanilla, this time in the fragrance, not in the name.
The competition is not entirely fair, after all, the new fragrance is not an "ode". It was wise of Guerlain to call the new fragrance no longer "Ode à la Vanille": so you go out of the way of the comparison.
The jury is also biased: a Shalimar wearer who particularly appreciates the top note in "Shalimar" - the top note that puts off so many.
For comparison compete:
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route du Mexique | Guerlain"
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route de Madagascar | Guerlain"
"Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain"
Bourbon vanilla bean.
START.
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route du Mexique | Guerlain" starts with lots of bergamot and distinct animalic hints - and stays that way for a while.
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route de Madagascar | Guerlain" quickly loses the bergamot and is bright, radiant and spicy from the start.
"Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain" seems lame and bland next to it, the bergamot is completely missing, the civet only hints.
The vanilla bean smells dark, woody, oily, absolutely unsweet - and actually not vanillig.
No, "Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain" does not smell like a vanilla bean: the dark, woody-oily is not present, the scent is equally warm and soft.
AFTER 10 MIN. the civet in "Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain" is pronounced enough to stand up to other scents. I like the fragrance at this stage - but its competitors even more.
AFTER ONE HOUR, "Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route du Mexique | Guerlain" becomes less animalic, vanilla emerges - and remains. After two hours, you notice it clearly.
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route de Madagascar | Guerlain" is still radiant-spicy, vanilla is also perceptible here. Since I know that the fragrance will remain so luminous and not too sweet until the end, I take it out of the comparison now. This was and is my favorite variant.
The civet of the "Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain" is still there.
3. HOUR.
Mexique becomes sweeter. The citrus is still there, but is almost covered by vanilla. Chocolate I have never smelled in the fragrance, but incense is discreetly perceptible.
"Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain" loses civet and becomes more flat.
Vanilla bean has a fragrance development! You can guess vanilla as you know it. Still wholly unsweet. We now also leave out the pod, it would unfold its vanilla soul only "diluted" in the dough.
BASIS.
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route de Madagascar | Guerlain" is vanillig, rather spicy than resinous.
"Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route du Mexique | Guerlain" is sweeter, but also more resinous. Almost too sweet for me, since I like it resinous, I still like the scent.
Vanilla bean remains vanilla bean.
"Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia | Guerlain" unfortunately weakens. The fragrance has become a pure vanilla scent, soft, round, not particularly sweet - but only vanilla. A very nice vanilla, with a bit of wool in it - but so can the others. If I want vanilla, I can reach for "Collection Extraordinaire - Orchidée Vanille | Van Cleef & Arpels", which "Vanille Planifolia" reminds me of towards the base.
CONCLUSION: Guerlain has done everything right. A small beast in the top note to make the Shalimar lovers mild. Small enough not to ver-stimmen the non-lovers. A round, pleasant vanilla fragrance, cozy and easy to wear.
The phrase "Finally a Shalimar for me!" you will hear more often, which is perfectly fine, you just have to be aware that here "Shalimar" is only in the name. We know that by now, many Shalimar flankers have little in common with the original - and "Black Opium" is not "Opium" at all.
I will use up my bottling, this is a nice fragrance. Would I buy a bottle? At the current price certainly not. Since "Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route du Mexique | Guerlain" has become much cheaper after a while, I would wait and see.
And the winner of the contest? "Lyra (Eau de Toilette) | Alain Delon" . Finest Guerlain vanilla, this time in the fragrance, not in the name.
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What is Nu?
At the moment there is, I think, no fragrance that is so well received as "Blue Silk".
Finally I could test it - and am a little surprised.
The fragrance reminds me very much of "Nu" by Saint Laurent. I have in the house, unfortunately, only the sample of "Nu (2011)" and could only compare with this; he is in the top note a little brighter and more floral than "Blue Silk". The old variant of "Nu" would be even more similar, if I remember correctly.
"Blue Silk" is a very inexpensive fragrance, plus it's new and being actively tested, that's the only thing I can use to explain its success. And yes, it is a nice fragrance: spicy in the opening, a little darker in the heart, powdery-sweet in the base. I like it much better than the "Secrets d'Essences - Accord Chic" given as a fragrance twin. I also like its restraint.
However, I like even better "Nu (2001)", it is more radiant, complex, spicy, has much better sillage and durability. In addition, he lacks this dull, rubbery note, which I perceive in "Blue Silk" to the base. This may be due to the juniper, I often have trouble with it.
So what does "Blue Silk" have that "Nu (2001)" does not?
Finally I could test it - and am a little surprised.
The fragrance reminds me very much of "Nu" by Saint Laurent. I have in the house, unfortunately, only the sample of "Nu (2011)" and could only compare with this; he is in the top note a little brighter and more floral than "Blue Silk". The old variant of "Nu" would be even more similar, if I remember correctly.
"Blue Silk" is a very inexpensive fragrance, plus it's new and being actively tested, that's the only thing I can use to explain its success. And yes, it is a nice fragrance: spicy in the opening, a little darker in the heart, powdery-sweet in the base. I like it much better than the "Secrets d'Essences - Accord Chic" given as a fragrance twin. I also like its restraint.
However, I like even better "Nu (2001)", it is more radiant, complex, spicy, has much better sillage and durability. In addition, he lacks this dull, rubbery note, which I perceive in "Blue Silk" to the base. This may be due to the juniper, I often have trouble with it.
So what does "Blue Silk" have that "Nu (2001)" does not?
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