BerryTerry
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BerryTerry
Powerful. Powdery. Puzzling.
I was absolutely itching to try this after hearing the GLOWING reviews of it on one of my favorite podcasts, Les Oderants. I believe it was described as "the most beautiful perfume I've ever smelled" by a bystander on the day one of the hosts was wearing it. And I both get it and don't.
This opens with the, to me, curious and amusing baby powder/soiled baby's diaper effect that I associate with many old school legends, like Chanel No. 5 and Shalimar. It quickly becomes a haze of pretty florals, none of which I can readily identify. This is where the powder settles in and, on me, it persists through to the very drydown. I can't complain too much since I adore a powdery scent, but some may find it too much. Notes like the lavender and the mandarin orange peek (and I do mean peek) through to wave at one's olfactory receptors before flittering away to hide behind the powdery haze. The thyme also comes out to play in the early third by sprinkling the composition with a bit of savory aromaticity.
That's it: this is about all that happens for me that is identifiable. From then on, had I not looked at the note pyramid I would've assumed Chypre Palatin is linear, as I get nothing but sustained, elegantly intense, beautifully blended purple-ish powder. None of the other listed notes stay for long enough, or even come out, for me to be able to understand why some call this fruity or complex or leathery. I don’t get it!
It is undeniable, however, that the fragrance is lovely and well executed. I wanted to keep smelling it, seeing if it would turn into something else, but oh so happy with what it already gave me. Once I imagined this on a masculine paramour, it was game over: I would absolutely want to dive back in for more and more. This is where I... sort of... get it!
I'm at the point where I'm starting to revisit fragrances from early in my fragrance journey and finding beauty and complexity in them that I couldn't perceive at first with my less experienced nose. I can't wait to come back to Chypre Palatin in about a year's time!
This opens with the, to me, curious and amusing baby powder/soiled baby's diaper effect that I associate with many old school legends, like Chanel No. 5 and Shalimar. It quickly becomes a haze of pretty florals, none of which I can readily identify. This is where the powder settles in and, on me, it persists through to the very drydown. I can't complain too much since I adore a powdery scent, but some may find it too much. Notes like the lavender and the mandarin orange peek (and I do mean peek) through to wave at one's olfactory receptors before flittering away to hide behind the powdery haze. The thyme also comes out to play in the early third by sprinkling the composition with a bit of savory aromaticity.
That's it: this is about all that happens for me that is identifiable. From then on, had I not looked at the note pyramid I would've assumed Chypre Palatin is linear, as I get nothing but sustained, elegantly intense, beautifully blended purple-ish powder. None of the other listed notes stay for long enough, or even come out, for me to be able to understand why some call this fruity or complex or leathery. I don’t get it!
It is undeniable, however, that the fragrance is lovely and well executed. I wanted to keep smelling it, seeing if it would turn into something else, but oh so happy with what it already gave me. Once I imagined this on a masculine paramour, it was game over: I would absolutely want to dive back in for more and more. This is where I... sort of... get it!
I'm at the point where I'm starting to revisit fragrances from early in my fragrance journey and finding beauty and complexity in them that I couldn't perceive at first with my less experienced nose. I can't wait to come back to Chypre Palatin in about a year's time!
A different kind of photorealism
This starts with a muted, well-behaved pepper, a very pronounced tobacco (more leafy than roasted) and subtle, sweet hints of vanilla, caramel, and amber. Shortly after the first burst, the cinnamon comes out and creates a very faint and ephemeral "apple pie" effect.
In the heart, Royal Bourbon becomes a roasty, smoky tobacco with just a bit of sweetness. There’s a tiny bit of fluorescence here that provides an interesting, not off-putting intensity. I could’ve sworn there are resins here, but upon checking the notes I get the impression that the caramel is providing a bit of a resinous texture when it mixes with the tobacco and the rum in the heart. I caught myself wondering what role the "bourbon" is supposed to be playing in this fragrance, but then I realized that is boozy not in the heady, sharp way that alcohol smells when you sniff it from a bottle, but rather in that it perfectly recreates the smoky sensation that you get in the back of the throat after swallowing rum or whiskey.
The comparisons to Tobacco Vanille are inevitable, but something about this one makes me feel like it's lighter, less intense (still with equivalent sillage and projection), and even layerable.
In the heart, Royal Bourbon becomes a roasty, smoky tobacco with just a bit of sweetness. There’s a tiny bit of fluorescence here that provides an interesting, not off-putting intensity. I could’ve sworn there are resins here, but upon checking the notes I get the impression that the caramel is providing a bit of a resinous texture when it mixes with the tobacco and the rum in the heart. I caught myself wondering what role the "bourbon" is supposed to be playing in this fragrance, but then I realized that is boozy not in the heady, sharp way that alcohol smells when you sniff it from a bottle, but rather in that it perfectly recreates the smoky sensation that you get in the back of the throat after swallowing rum or whiskey.
The comparisons to Tobacco Vanille are inevitable, but something about this one makes me feel like it's lighter, less intense (still with equivalent sillage and projection), and even layerable.
A scent for an interesting man
Given that this is a niche fragrance, I assumed it was unisex when I sprayed it. I was surprised to go on NIlafar's website and see it listed as a men's scent, but as soon as I caught another whiff, I understood why.
The opening is bright, intense, fruity, spicy, and very slightly floral, with all of these facets tied together by a sort of fluorescence. That fluorescence, which I think is provided by the coriander mixed with the yuzu, is slightly reminiscent of men's "blue" designer scents, but this one is 100x more interesting and refined. The melon note then appears to grant the scent a bit more fruitiness.
The heart loses a bit of the fruitiness and becomes purely aromatic on my skin, but that is quickly supplemented and later replaced by a wild, intense, pungent, vibrant fruitiness that makes me think of Hibiscus Mahajad or Delina Exclusif.
By the drydown, the delicious fruity aroma transforms. This is where I encounter the limits of my still nascent fragrance knowledge, as the notes list ambrette and cashmere, but I could've sworn the base is vanilla with a hint of tart cherry, leading me to believe I just don't know what the two listed notes smell like.
All in all, I think Lake Mariout can truly be worn by anyone, but it's definitely for the man who may want to hint at being traditionally "masculine" but still have people know he's so much more than just that. A beautiful and unexpected scent.
The opening is bright, intense, fruity, spicy, and very slightly floral, with all of these facets tied together by a sort of fluorescence. That fluorescence, which I think is provided by the coriander mixed with the yuzu, is slightly reminiscent of men's "blue" designer scents, but this one is 100x more interesting and refined. The melon note then appears to grant the scent a bit more fruitiness.
The heart loses a bit of the fruitiness and becomes purely aromatic on my skin, but that is quickly supplemented and later replaced by a wild, intense, pungent, vibrant fruitiness that makes me think of Hibiscus Mahajad or Delina Exclusif.
By the drydown, the delicious fruity aroma transforms. This is where I encounter the limits of my still nascent fragrance knowledge, as the notes list ambrette and cashmere, but I could've sworn the base is vanilla with a hint of tart cherry, leading me to believe I just don't know what the two listed notes smell like.
All in all, I think Lake Mariout can truly be worn by anyone, but it's definitely for the man who may want to hint at being traditionally "masculine" but still have people know he's so much more than just that. A beautiful and unexpected scent.
Just short of too much...
Infinity may be a great example of well-executed fragrance maximalism.
It does exactly what it says on the tin, and by that I mean the notes are almost all easy to identify, even while being well blended. It starts with beautiful, deep yet luminous, juicy plum and black cherry which, on my skin and clothes, persist through to the very drydown and base. The other players, like the rose, the tobacco, the cardamom, the tonka, and the musk each take their turn to shine brightly throughout the 8+ hour voyage. Oh, yes: longevity is insane/incredible. On clothing, a full day later you still get a plum/cherry/oud mix that projects.
Which brings me to the strong notes here. You have that oud alongside leather, saffron, and vetiver, and they've all been dialed up to... 9.999. The oud is smokey, the leather provides heft, and the saffron and vetiver bring a bit of spice/sparkle. These are four baritones, none of whom has a solo but all of whom have still been instructed to show off during the song. It's a lot, a WHOLE lot, but somehow they still don't clash. Almost overwhelming, but never quite getting there. Olfactory brinksmanship.
Which ends up meaning that Infinity is strong. It is a beast. It lasts, it stays, and it projects. To the point where I, someone who cares about longevity and sillage, have started wondering whether there's a dupe of Infinity that's a bit less bombastic, for when I want to smell this exact combination but on a casual, calm night in.
The constant interplay between the notes means the composition is at times boozy, at times musky, at times powdery. It's honestly kind of magical. As always, but for this one especially, try before you buy!
It does exactly what it says on the tin, and by that I mean the notes are almost all easy to identify, even while being well blended. It starts with beautiful, deep yet luminous, juicy plum and black cherry which, on my skin and clothes, persist through to the very drydown and base. The other players, like the rose, the tobacco, the cardamom, the tonka, and the musk each take their turn to shine brightly throughout the 8+ hour voyage. Oh, yes: longevity is insane/incredible. On clothing, a full day later you still get a plum/cherry/oud mix that projects.
Which brings me to the strong notes here. You have that oud alongside leather, saffron, and vetiver, and they've all been dialed up to... 9.999. The oud is smokey, the leather provides heft, and the saffron and vetiver bring a bit of spice/sparkle. These are four baritones, none of whom has a solo but all of whom have still been instructed to show off during the song. It's a lot, a WHOLE lot, but somehow they still don't clash. Almost overwhelming, but never quite getting there. Olfactory brinksmanship.
Which ends up meaning that Infinity is strong. It is a beast. It lasts, it stays, and it projects. To the point where I, someone who cares about longevity and sillage, have started wondering whether there's a dupe of Infinity that's a bit less bombastic, for when I want to smell this exact combination but on a casual, calm night in.
The constant interplay between the notes means the composition is at times boozy, at times musky, at times powdery. It's honestly kind of magical. As always, but for this one especially, try before you buy!
Laundered church clothes on a summer day
I wonder if this fragrance is bearing the brunt of people's expectations based on its Dior Privée siblings. Compared to the more recent releases (Vanilla Diorama, Tobacolor, even Kurkdjian's own Dioriviera) it is certainly a departure. But now that I'm finally trying it on skin, I don't think it's bad, it's just different! Unexpected! Even quirky, perhaps.
The aldehydes and frankincense interact with one another in a way that holds the aldehydes from just smelling like clean clothes, and it keeps the frankincense from smelling entirely... ecclesiastical. Bathed in the spectre of light amberyness, the composition ends up coming across as deep and strong, almost fougère-like. There's even something in here creating an effect that strongly reminds me of lemon or lime, which made me wonder whether this could even be pulled off as a summer fragrance.
The image in my head is of someone who had their church clothes laundered the very morning of, and managed to spill a swig of really tart lemonade down their front at the function.
I have to sit with this a bit longer and even consider whether I want a full bottle (sadly, Dior has decided to stop offering this line in their 40ml size, otherwise this would've been an immediate yes), but it's quite interesting, and certainly not the disaster I was expecting from reviews everywhere!
UPDATE: After 8+ hours of having sprayed it, its only crimes are perhaps being too intense and super linear (although after about 5 hours I thought I detected something leather-like developing). Otherwise, a solid yet unexpected scent.
The aldehydes and frankincense interact with one another in a way that holds the aldehydes from just smelling like clean clothes, and it keeps the frankincense from smelling entirely... ecclesiastical. Bathed in the spectre of light amberyness, the composition ends up coming across as deep and strong, almost fougère-like. There's even something in here creating an effect that strongly reminds me of lemon or lime, which made me wonder whether this could even be pulled off as a summer fragrance.
The image in my head is of someone who had their church clothes laundered the very morning of, and managed to spill a swig of really tart lemonade down their front at the function.
I have to sit with this a bit longer and even consider whether I want a full bottle (sadly, Dior has decided to stop offering this line in their 40ml size, otherwise this would've been an immediate yes), but it's quite interesting, and certainly not the disaster I was expecting from reviews everywhere!
UPDATE: After 8+ hours of having sprayed it, its only crimes are perhaps being too intense and super linear (although after about 5 hours I thought I detected something leather-like developing). Otherwise, a solid yet unexpected scent.
