Birdsword

If you already feel anxious about your impending winter depression at the end of summer, this fragrance is the aromatherapy for the perfect start to autumn,
welcoming winter with open arms.

It starts off lightly synthetic minty and with spicy lavender.
This fresh opening is the last homage to summer for you.
A positive conclusion that seems to greet you with good feelings for the coziest time of the year.

The distinctive JPG Le Male DNA reveals itself shortly after,
predictable, loud but not too brutal to destroy the harmony.
Your thoughts wander, despite the coziness, there is more to be had this year.
Just like this fragrance, you don’t confine yourself, between warm blankets, the crackling fire, and your favorite film series that you binge-watch every year.
Club, bar, and sociability - with this aura - anything is possible.

The scent now develops into a sweet masculine daredevil.
Tonka and honey quickly take over the fragrance.
I also perceive cinnamon and tobacco but quite subtly, woven into the elixir.
An autumn harmony that is unmatched.

As it progresses, the fragrance becomes more rounded.
The resinous sweet labdanum becomes more present and adds a truly beautiful vanilla accord as it fades.
The scent trail that you have carried with you for hours,
now lingers on your clothing and skin.

During this time, even without a hail of compliments,
people have caught your vibe,
soon wrapping themselves in thick sweaters,
stylish coats, and elegant shawls to join you,
to usher in this time with pumpkin spice hot drinks.



This fragrance marks the beginning of autumn for me like no other.

I have never been a big fan of the typical JPG DNA,
but this fragrance came to me at just the right time last year.
Under the radar, at the completely wrong season in the elixir hype of the fragrance houses.
Half a year later, at the right time, it was on everyone’s lips and rightly so.
This piece is an elixir that truly deserves its name!
Longevity and sillage are very intense, I would almost call it beast mode.
It is niche and deep - despite the designer touch.

One can discuss enough negatives about Tom Ford, but as soon as the house dares to try something new, it finds more than just resonance in the perfume world.
The FF can be seen as a pioneer of a modern men's fragrance, just like OUD Wood was 10 years ago. It combines soft creamy accords and modern playfulness with masculine leathery notes. It is timeless, elegant, and mature.

I remember well when I first smelled it a few years ago.
This fragrance left a lasting impression on me; it made me addicted within a day and eventually became my first Tom Ford and my entry into the world of perfume, outside of classic designers. I deliberately do not say niche world, as I now look at the scene with a different perspective and consider Tom Ford, despite its success and legitimacy, also as a designer who demands prices from the niche world.
I got to know the fragrance as a unisex scent and would today say it is definitely masculine. If it were fresher and less dry, it might be unisex or completely feminine leaning - for this reason, I see the fragrance as perfectly balanced.

The scent opens with a creamy almond - lavender - combo.
Shortly after, this note settles on leather with a dry sage accent, and the clean iris rounds off the accord.
With fresh elegance, almost slightly floral, the journey continues.
It remains creamy and feels a bit darker, almost dirty, but on a very pleasant level in the dry down.

The fragrance lives up to its name.
It makes you appear unique.
It is for men who are not afraid of the future, who live with the times and stand firm in their own ideals, yet refresh themselves at every good opportunity without being hindered by overthinking stubbornness. Tolerant and open-minded.

"Undercover, the boss mingles with his employees to find out where problems lie and wishes remain unfulfilled."

Do you still remember the show?
Anecdotally, this bottle tells the story of a designer house that has long made its mark on consumers.
Despite a luxury image, expensive campaigns, and well-known faces from film and television, nothing seems to help lift the brand's image. Sales are declining, and the general opinion of the brand is drifting negative.
The efforts of the management, consisting of yes-sayers and overpaid advertising technicians, are also not helping the brand get back on its feet.
The BOSS is on high alert, ready to address the problems that plague his brand. In a simple black outfit and with a discreet hidden gold chain, he immerses himself with utmost concentration into the everyday life and happenings of his company.
In the first weeks, he receives little attention, as efforts are made to involve him in the process as much as possible. He listens and observes. He sets traps here and there for those who think they can behave superficially and inattentively towards him. The resolution, with wide eyes and amazement, awaits each of you, unembellished, professional, and rewarding every good soul who has engaged with him.-

The Boss Bottled Absolu has truly been a surprise for me. For many, the elixir from last year was the first real step, but it didn't really convince me. The Absolu offers a certain overall package that simply appeals to me in the designer sector. It opens with a sweet-spicy cola, similar to the ASAD from Lattafa, and from here it radiates very strongly - the sillage remains quite stable throughout the entire duration of the fragrance, and the longevity is truly impressive. Even after 24 hours, it is still close to the skin and strong enough on clothing to casually continue wearing the scent. The fragrance then develops, alongside the smoky notes, an animalistic touch, which is very harmoniously integrated into the scent. The typical Bottled apple DNA must not be missing, as it makes the fragrance pleasant and versatile - here the comparisons with Layton and its big brother Layton Exclusif are justified, but in my eyes, this fragrance is neither a replacement nor an alternative for the Exclusif. It simply lacks the niche depth and the dark, noble oud component. Nevertheless, I would see it as the best leather fragrance from the house of BOSS. This release takes the Bottled DNA to a new level, even if it is not yet what it might truly aspire to be in the future - a unique selling point, a true BOSS of fragrances. There are simply too many references to other scents.
I have not been able to test the Shaghaf Oud Azraq yet, but it is read as a niche version of this fragrance - this alone would underline my statement here.

And now to the elephant in the room: The price.
€145 for 100 ml RRP.
Anyone who buys at these prices is simply to blame themselves.
Still, I took the plunge during the supposedly good sale, also out of fear of a too-quick reformulation. Because the H/S of the fragrance really made the purchasing decision easy for me.

I never thought I would dedicate my first review to a fragrance that I don't even own yet (!). But here I am, sitting with my test strip from the big D. around the corner and my pleasantly scented wrist, and I have to share my thoughts on this.

First of all, we were in the mentioned perfumery, actually just for her, lipsticks, which is not my area at all, so I quickly made my way to the men's perfume section.
Eau d'Ombré Leather by Tom Ford caught my eye immediately; I hadn't smelled it yet, so I went straight for the tester. At that moment, the cashier and I exchanged glances, and she said right away: "If you like that, check out the MCM Diamond, it just came in this week, I didn't expect it to smell this good."

Unaware, I walked along the shelf until I discovered the flanker.
I only knew MCM from the fashion world, and since I'm not a fan of their stuff, my first thought was, "Okay, what is she trying to sell me now? Overpriced designer" - I thought. Far from it. According to her, releases from the brand in the past had been rather disappointing, but I obviously have no real expertise to confirm that.

Well, let's get to the scent:
The opening begins with a fresh-mineral wood note, very clear Oud Wood vibes.
It's not listed, but I can definitely smell the cardamom that makes Oud Wood so special. No trace of cappuccino.

The first spray went on the tester, the second on my wrist. Despite 30 degrees, I wore it because I also like Oud Wood in the height of summer.

After about 15 minutes, the scent began to develop; it became sweeter,
lavender + plum, really beautifully done. In the background, the Oud mentioned here is definitely present. Not too animalic, but more prominent than I expected.
Up to this point, I thought, wow, bold - this thing is not a classic crowd-pleaser
- it has edges, it wants to stand out (!)

*Regarding sillage and longevity, I don't want to say too much; I simply haven't tested the scent extensively enough.

Meanwhile, we were still busy at the shopping center, and on our way to the exit, we passed the big D. again; I had to know what this thing was going to cost. So I went back in and checked the prices. "The big one," 75 ml a little over 100, I somehow expected more. But in the end, everyone has to decide for themselves. Luckily, there are also smaller sizes available.

Back to the scent. I had the feeling that this initial sweetness was now becoming a bit more organized. The lavender had faded somewhat into the background, but the sweetness of the plum remained definitely present with the woody-animalic notes.

We spent the rest of the day at the beach, went swimming, and enjoyed the pleasant warmth in the sun. I almost forgot that we had been to the perfumery today and found the tester in my pocket on the way home.
The scent hit me immediately, and the association was instant (!)
- this thing smells like the bottle looks - like a luxurious handbag.
Sweet, fine leather - freshly ordered - stored in the same rooms where all the beautiful treasures are kept - tonka, oud, and sweet-fruity plums.

I really don't want to praise this thing too highly yet, but it has truly captivated me.
It has the potential to become my autumn/winter 2024 favorite.
And regarding my initial words about a statement:
This thing does exactly what the big TF has been neglecting for a long time.
It combines highly sought-after DNAs (plum, oud) finely tuned into a "backpack," with solid longevity and a much more complex DNA for a price level that is lower than the brand would suggest.

I also want to touch on the unisex topic:
If you, as a woman, like oud scents (not barn-like), then yes.
If you don't like them, still test it and see if you can handle it until the dry down; it may diminish the scent experience but is definitely worth it in the dry down.
For the gentlemen, go for it if you like Oud Wood - if it should be much more animalic, better test it first.

Thank you to anyone who has read this far.
I hope this narrative structure wasn't too exhausting for you overall but helpful. Best regards!