CD1810

And once again an uncommented fragrance from the house of “Acqua del Garda,” which I am very happy to take the first swing at.

“Zenzero e Vetiver” has, like so many fragrances from Northern Italy, significant all-rounder qualities. In this case, many would, I suspect, be reminded of “La Nuit de l’Homme.” It reminds me of “Krypton” by Sober, which is often referred to as an LNDLH dupe.

So what does “Zenzero e Vetiver” bring? In the opening, it delivers exactly what it promises: ginger and grapefruit provide a powerful, slightly spicy freshness that is quickly accompanied by floral notes, making the fragrance initially appear distinctly unisex. As it develops, “Zenzero e Vetiver” becomes noticeably more masculine through woods, amber, and vetiver, while also being slightly sweet and balsamic.

One could say that the whole thing is not overly original. The development of the fragrance pyramid is also completed quickly. But aside from that, you get a nice, sweet-fresh-spicy all-rounder that always delights, never annoys, and rarely causes friction. All of this at a very reasonable price with adequate longevity and sillage.

In this respect, I am once again satisfied and convinced, and I recommend the fragrances of this house to everyone. You may not always be surprised, but you are always delighted by reliable quality.

Knowledgeable people with good taste in music will of course immediately recognize my headline as a lyric from ABBA's new masterpiece "Don’t shut me down," which has been accompanying me since September 2, 2021.

"Now and then combined" also fits the current offshoot from Chanel's "Les Eaux" line. Like the other Eaux, "Paris Edimbourg" is primarily fresh, light, and uncomplicated. A typical, pleasantly old-fashioned "Chanel-ness" envelops you when you spray "Paris- Edimbourg": wonderfully citrusy freshness, noble soapiness, as only Chanel can deliver.

So far, so nice, so classic, so "then." But then, after a short time, a wonderfully green-woody twist emerges in the fragrance, making it feel a bit more contemporary, "now" so to speak. Juniper berry is included in many new releases and seems to be quite trendy in my perception. Cedarwood is also present. This whole "now" combines into a refreshing, citrusy-green scent. Completely unexcited, without being sharp. A bit of synthetic material is probably already included despite all the naturalness, as "Paris- Edimbourg" has surprisingly good longevity for a fresh water.

The simplicity and straightforwardness are wonderfully supported by the puristic, unembellished bottle.

"Paris- Edimbourg" is of course a summer fragrance; it is unisex but leans a bit masculine. However, I enjoy wearing it even now at the beginning of February because I am tired of winter and need bright scents.

I am wearing it right now. I'm also listening to ABBA. Spring and summer can come!

And once again, it is officially confirmed and can be read that which I have been perceiving in myself for years: I am old, at least in my mind, the body is still holding up surprisingly well. Actually, a depressing self-realization, one might think?

In some respects, probably so. But perhaps also somewhat inevitable and maybe even somewhat okay if you replace "old" with "calm" or "not having to do everything".

However, I am not calm regarding this Givenchy classic, but rather enthusiastic. And I am also not calm about the fact that such masterpieces are no longer launched in the designer sector. I stand fully by my statement: The mainstream sector WAS really better back then.

This masterpiece from the early nineties recently found its way into my collection, after I had it when it was released as a twenty-year-old. I won an auction on eBay and snagged a full 50ml vintage bottle at an outrageously low price. I was lucky too!

Vintage and completely fine: I sprayed it on eagerly and was 20 again! Exactly the same as back then: A unique combination in the men’s sector of green spiciness (basil, resin, fir) and distinct floral notes. I find the latter particularly phenomenal: Who would create a men’s fragrance today that has magnolia and especially lily of the valley prominently in the heart and still smells very much like a man? Because that’s what "Insensé" does for me. I don’t find it unisex at all. The iris even adds a certain creaminess for me, giving the fragrance a longevity and projection that I would never have expected (especially not from a vintage bottle).

And so I spray it on and enjoy it and try to lock away my frustration about today’s mainstream fragrances, because: Why get upset, why cry, what to struggle with? Nothing will get better from that, and only the enjoyment of this masterpiece will be diminished.

In that sense, yes, the designer sector was better back then, but I simply enjoy now without further lamenting. And I certainly don’t want to be 20 again!

Actually, it’s not a quality feature when the price of a fragrance is what stands out the most. But here it is.

So, I paid €24 for 100 ml at my trusted niche perfumery.
Yes, the bottle looks like €24. Yes, the packaging is also spartan. But the content is not.

You get a fresh-woody-fruity aquatic with very, very decent performance. It’s synthetic too, but which aquatic isn’t? Others may hide their artificiality better, but they cost several times more. I’m reminded of one or another flanker from the Acqua di Gio line, Calone, as smelled below, sends its regards.

If it were filled in a chic Armani or YSL bottle at four times the price, I wouldn’t give this a second thought. But as an affordable “guilty pleasure” scent for in-between, it’s a killer, a price killer indeed!

Once again, an overlooked fragrance from the far too overlooked house of Acqua del Garda. I like these Northern Italians because I find that they deliver high-quality, relaxed, largely niche fragrances without going overboard on price. They are also not overly ambitious, but rather unexcited and deliver what is stated on the packaging in a very decent manner.

This time, not so much. Actually, Neroli Portofino leggiero or Colonia Essenza light should be here, at least in the fragrance pyramid, Neroli should appear prominently. But it does not, and what I primarily smell is the not-so-new combination of Neroli and orange blossom. Like a classic deluxe refreshing wipe.

Colonia Mea is then quickly described: It starts with a real flash of Neroli-orange blossom freshness, and in the first fifteen minutes, it is in a truly intoxicating extent. Wonderfully imaginable in Italy at temperatures beyond 35 degrees. So at the moment in Northwest Germany, not really fitting, but by no means less refreshing. A certain Mediterranean-like woodiness with hints of rosemary and thyme comes in after about half an hour, adding more core before Tonka softens and smooths everything out.

Colonia Mea only offers limited longevity and sillage. It is, after all, a light, summery Eau de Cologne that wants to be reapplied and, due to the moderate price, can be.

Colonia Mea certainly does not deserve an originality award, nor does it strive for one. But for those looking for a classic Neroli Eau de Cologne and especially for financial reasons do not want to reach for Acqua di Parma or, in the end, Tom Ford, they should give Acqua del Garda a try.
You may not get exactly what is stated in the fragrance pyramid, but at least you get it at its best.