Chnokfir

There were times when perfumes were an opulent multitude of components, an excessive accumulation of different ingredients that made pinpointing individual notes difficult. This gradually changed after the 1990s. The fragrances were not necessarily flat, but rather predictable. "Background" by Jil Sanders is clearly "stuck" in the Good Old Days. Even today I have a hard time just to guess at some fragrance notes.

Rather unimpressive is the box it comes in. A simple black color with a subtle silver and light blue print. The bottle has a flattened front and back, looks like a sturdy short column, and is made of smoky deep green glass. A solid black cap, plus a thin silver band, perches on top. So inconspicuous that one might overlook it, if one does not know the scent. But, once you have sniffed it, you will never let it go.

The opening of this fragrance comes with a Bang! in a rush of fresh spiciness. Bergamot, lemon, tarragon and above all anise forge forward, with just a hint of licorice. Gradually more diverse flowers and spices move in, impossible to detect them all. Lavender and carnation are present, along with a velvety-soft, almost balsamic cinnamon. There are lily-of-the-valley and jasmine, I believe. Slowly one feels wrapped like in a down comforter, feather by soft feather, with a sweet lasting softness. There is much tonka and more vanilla, but also sandalwood and cedar. I can make out amber and some musk.

Fortunately, this is such a soft and balsamic scent - the intense sillage would otherwise be too strong. Here, it remains a very pleasant erxperience. The longevity meets high standards, just sparingly applied, this scent fills the whole day.

The background of yesteryear with opulent aromas has become rare in the mainstream segment of today, but you can still find many in the niche section. You can look there and get lucky. Nevertheless, I am glad to know Jil Sander's "Background" and have the pleasure of applying a few drops once in a while.

(Translation: Pipette)

At the phase of my development into a young man at the late 1980s and early 1990s, there were more or less only two olfactory directions which a man could follow. Either you embrace a full Main Stream with all these new directions like Calvin Klein or Joop, or you decide to go towards the classic group with Paco Rabanne, Azzaro or Boss. My number 1 choice was "Number One" by Hugo Boss. I have no idea why, but probably because my friends and classmates all went for the modern scents and I always aimed to make a counterpoint. As far away as I stood, then and now, from wearing a classic suit, I was comfortable in knowing that this scent went perfectly well with Levy jeans, a Diesel T-shirt and Adidas Allrounds.

The classic presentation of this scent is striking and has resisted face-lifts over the years. Deep black is the carton with subtle pin stripes, the BOSS logo proudly displayed on its chest. The bottle is edgy, clear and the pin stripe design is repeated. The color of the fragrance is a classic golden yellow. All in all, a statement not to be missed.

The scent opens up boldly with classic fresh notes, the bergamot taming the lemon. Other than the clean and spicy accents, there is an early appearance of a light fruity aroma whose sweetness soon is dominated by honey. Fresh and light flowery notes follow and spread in a wide range, which is almost overwhelming. With the basenotes, we have a panorama of notes which, although soft and warm, still maintain the structure of the scent. There are woods, musk, patchouli, oakmoss and most definitely tobacco. Like in an orchestra, the individual notes harmonize beautifully, perhaps the first violin is missing ... nevertheless, there is a full performance of the rest. I especially like the spicy notes with a touch of flowery bloom, as they are alternating with the woody accents. Most of all, I fancy the sweet tobacco note, and I'm saying this as a non-smoker. Today, this scent might seem a bit dated, but to label is as "old fashioned" would be a misnomer by far. It still remains as a classic among the "Gentleman" fragrances.

Being a youngster, I applied this fragrance in large doses which however is marvelously suited for overapplication. Only many years later, I did realize that the scent is functioning perfectly well in lesser amounts. The sillage is strong given a distance of two meters, without trying to fog up the whole room. Add to this a very good longevity - when applied in the morning, there is still a very recognizable "Boss Number One" trace left in the evening.

Over the years, many more scent directions and impressions have met my nose. Clearly, "Boss Number One" is not ranking as my number 1 choice anymore. But, it has my long appreciation as a "Gentleman" fragrance, and I have the pleasure of wearing it from time to time.

(Translation: Pipette)

For some years now, it is my job as a good son to gift my father with a new after shave on occasions like birthday, Christmas and Father's Day. This is not only because I have a slight affinity with perfumes and have good sources where to buy, but also because my dad does not want to deal with all those current citric and sweet men's fragrances. Most of the modern scents he does not like at all. Something classic it has to be - but please, not every year the same scent! The search had become increasingly difficult over the past 20 years.

In a place that I would never have thought to see a fragrance, at a local Manufactum store, I found Alt-Innsbruck. I had almost overlooked the rather nondescript bottle, had there not been the name on the label and my brain cells in a split second made the connection to Innsbruck as the birthplace of my father. Furthermore, my dear Mr. Papa is only two valse beats older than this fragrance. So, rather as a gag than a real gift, the cologne was acquired - without much testing - as a tester was nowhere to be found. But the first scent molecules which made their way out of the confines of the carton into the open air promised a tart scent of Old School heritage. Hurray!

Simple is the scent presentation - from A to Z. A plain black box, a rectangular glass bottle with a plain top and a yellow gold liquid. An old fashioned sticker in purple and gold with the name "Alt-Innsbruck" and as the only decoration, a small sign of a gold roof, the ever present Innsbruck "Goldenes Dachl" emblem. If you want to spend a few Euros more for the spray pump, you get an impressive rubber ball pump where the dosage is easily controllable. That they still have something like that...!?

The labeling announces what in a few seconds will reach your nose: Alcohol, water, Virginia tobacco, menthol and otherwise nothing! The menthol absolutely takes your breath away if you have not already been in shock how cool your skin has become after this relentless attack. After coming out from that first shock, you try to decipher the composition of this scent. There seems to be alcohol, merciless cold menthol and absolutely nothing else! Only after a while a little tobacco is venturing through and slowly spreading. If it were not for that menthol note, I would be reminded and dreaming of those tobacco fields in the Southern United States, where I spent a few years in my youth, and was getting acquainted with those endless plantations in Virginia, Carolina, Kentucky and Tennessee. The fragrance stays bold and fresh with a tart sweetness throughout the whole day.

This scent is anything but subtle, but with the spray pump you can easily control the dosage. If you choose to use this as an after shave, you may give it a thought to weigh your own pleasure against an assault at the sensitive nostrils of your fellow human beings. This fragrance truly wraps around you like a cloud and does not let go until your next shower.

Meanwhile, I also love this fragrance and it is a wonderful and reliable companion year in, year out. Unfortunately, I can only rarely decide to share it with my fellow human beings in the office, in the cinema or the theater. And yet, to even imagine or wish for a "light" version of Alt-Innsbruck? No way.

(Translation: Pipette)

Does anyone still remember the longhaired tennis pro who won the Olympic gold medal, who later mutated into a bald head, who had a few cozy dates with Barbra Streisand, and then got married to Brooke Shields before he finally kidnapped 'our' Steffi (Graf) to Las Vegas? You guessed it! Andre Agassi - the advertising icon for "Aramis Life".

We are looking at a nice bottle made of deep blue ridged glass, easy to grasp and with a polished silver sprayer on top. The carton has the same cool blue. Overall, a nice eye catcher.

With kumquat, lime, bergamot and mint, immediately one enters into a fantastically refreshing experience. There are already enough facets to be interesting: Violet leaf and cardamom provide flowery/spicy notes and the cucumber note adds a light hint of green in the background. Eventually the leather and the woody notes come forward, to round out the impact as soft and spicy. All in all, the scent is refreshingly spicy with a very masculine base.

Because my skin has a fairly high pH factor, I am constantly amazed that this fragrance is not simply a short-lived sporty scent. "Aramis Life" accompanies me for the whole day, provides my environment with a distinct but agreeable sillage, without loosing any areas and remaining intact for 8-10 hours. Truly, a good choice for the warm season.

The classic "Aramis Life" was meanwhile removed from the market, but has been again included in the "Aramis Gentleman's Collection". Slightly reformulated perhaps, but well preserved in the same characteristics.

For me, this is still THE woody fresh scent. It might be interesting to know whether tennis legend Agassi is still wearing it?

(Translation: Pipette)

Before I start choking on my thoughts generated by this tepid liquid in front of me, I better write them down.

Which scent is James Bond wearing, actually?

As a matter of fact, he needs none - the man happens to have so much testosterone overload that he naturally appeals to women and intimidates his opponents.

In the event that James Bond should be reaching for a scent, many classic English Gentleman scents come promptly to my mind: all bitter, spicy, male, and seductive.

And now we have THIS: A flat shaped bottle in smoke grey with a coarse mesh pattern similar to a pistol grip and adorned with the classic 007 logo. A little showy perhaps, but handsome and weighing nicely in the hand.

The fragrance, however, is short of great revelations: Fruity fresh notes with too much citrus, some tart green flowers and the usual modular building blocks for a spicy earthy basis, just the bare minimum because of savings. So synthetic that in its entirety the scent provides no fun and is taking its leave rather soon. Not even long enough to last through a movie house visit. And finally, its durability is unimpressive.

Now, then, which of the many James Bond actors would be able to carry off this scent?

No one! Not even Timothy Dalton which I deem the weakest of all performers. Don't even think about the veteran Sean Connery or the tough Daniel Craig.

I better hold back any opinions about which target audience this scent is aiming at ... it might lead to some controversial answers.

All I know is that for a long time already, the sale of rights linked to a name can make lots more money than the movie itself. But when one hears how successful the recent Bond movies were, including the DVD market, one wonders whether there actually was a need for this fragrance.

And if so, would there not have been better quality scents, and even an obligation to choose one of them? Because I find this unimaginative liquid rather damaging for James Bond's reputation - and come to think of it - for the perfume industry as such.

(Translation: Pipette)