Dustymusky

On the old mountain pass, there hasn't been much going on for decades. But the air and landscape are still magnificent. In the morning, during spring, a biting fresh wind blows down from the glacier, collecting a minty aroma from the first sprouting herbs on the still timidly green slope. I like to linger there for 1-2 hours, letting my gaze wander over the mountains. I have time. Around noon, my companion arrives. She has picked wildflowers and lavender. Spread out to dry on the wooden table, the scent mingles with the not-so-cool but still minty mountain fragrance. As the ground warms in the midday sun, anisic-earthy notes join in.
What do we actually need all this modern stuff for? Run, run, run! Scents thick and sweet like syrup. Power power power. The outpost may have had its time, but the air, the tranquility, the nature....
Evening is slowly approaching. The scents of the snow-capped mountain meadow landscape become weaker, but remain gently perceptible. Time stands still. Deceleration.

Some don’t say much, they just are. Here, the name is the program. The opening is aromatic, underpinned by mild citrus. A brief intro, then "no nonsense". Linear aromatic-floral on hard wood. It comes across as serious, classic, confident. I am Alpha, my place is on the cushion.
A great scent for occasions when it matters. Salary negotiation, employee meeting, hello, dear future mother-in-law, kid, what have you done now. Let me introduce you to my best employee, do you dance tango? Do you want to... you get the idea.
We are all more or less crazy hunters and gatherers here. This one is not a club scent. But it fits perfectly for THAT moment when it’s there. And, it costs almost nothing. Not a "must have", but a "should have".


PS: If anyone has tested the Lion at the first meeting with the future father-in-law, please let me know ;-)

An explorer sets out to discover new things - or to rediscover forgotten ones. The perfumer who calls his creation "Explorer" may have just wanted to try something fun.

The Boadicea Explorer has sparked quite a controversial discussion here in the forum, which, from my current perspective, has stretched from the ancient times of Parfumo to the High Middle Ages. The average rating is just 6.5, and the entire spectrum of evaluations has been given, from catastrophic to phenomenal. At least half of the stock must have long been used up in the sanitary sector. As a 3-year perfume veteran - someone from the middle Parfumo modern era - I will now analyze this fragrance work once again. In doing so, I will attempt to translate the now somewhat archaic texts from the context of their time into modern perfume German and incorporate the judgments of our ancestors into my analysis. References to living persons are intentional, as are plagiarisms! DonTheBoss was reminded of "polishing" while exploring (note for modern Parfumo users: the act of rubbing a floor with a protective wax layer - something grandma used to do). Patchouli or not, DeGirlof53 found it cedar-like but was put in the cleaning product corner by everyone else (note: back then, emancipation still had to be fought for, so I suspect that the mentioned prejudices came from male "others"). In the early modern period, someone associated this scent with tractor (gear) differential oil and stated it was perfectly wearable for gold chain-wearing gentlemen (note: correctly "gendered" thus gold chain-wearing gentlemen/*inas) starting from 85. It remains unclear at this point whether the enthusiastic author himself falls into this category.
From all these cultural-historical impressions, however, a picture emerges with today's perspective that - quite contemporarily - is somewhat top-note heavy. Why? Of course, because of the almost mega-fruit in it. Naturally, one can assume that the work has been reformulated. However, I was able to experimentally reconstruct how the reformulation was most likely carried out. Frog wood cleaner (with natural ingredients from pine) provides the green-bitter base tone (note: from today's perspective, rather mild than bitter). A portion of SOFIX parquet adds the somewhat soapy wax note. Plenty of grated orange peels stirred in, and applied to an oak floor. The "sun rose" is, in my opinion, an overzealous translation error for a few floral sprinkles. After absorption, one extracts an "absolute" from it. It then smells like a cedar wood log rubbed with orange peel butter.

The verdict: The scent clearly belongs in the "phenomenal" category today. No twin is known, not even in the slightest. The minimum age for wearability starts significantly lower due to the fruity note in modern times, but due to the slight soapiness and less pronounced sweetness, perhaps at 45 ± 16.3.

{preprint from Parf. Phil. Trans., vol 733, 34pp, 2021.}

So Moos Alta, this doesn’t smell at all like fruity vanilla berry. You can only wear this if you’re at least 80+. And this one, it’s not only not sweet at all, but also so cloyingly citrusy in the top note. When Grandpa thinks he needs to hit the disco one last time. As old-fashioned as the garden of the cathedral’s monastery in Cologne.

For all the leftover perfumes from 80+: my last vanilla pudding was 30 years ago. Milk mustache is called “Bumfluff” in English. Those who have seen a thing or two can wear something beautiful, green to enjoy, something classically herbal - but please, smooooth. Not for green boys on the prowl, but something elegant, with a bit of retro-modern charm - without sugar, please. The Duc Extreme is just the right one. A fougere without coumarin - at least I don’t notice any of it. If in the many world-famous fougeres the coumarin - a defensive substance contained in, for example, the tonka bean - ruins the classic at the end with this plant-sugary, vanillic sweetness - like in the Fougere Royale from the same house - then one should take this YouTube-hated (LT) one to heart. What’s served is a truly perfected moss after a citrusy green opening with the usual fougere-like heart combo. Simply wonderful! Moss often seems soapy to me, which I would accept alone. But sweet-soapy - yuck. Not this one. This one: a rather non-soapy, pleasantly unsweet, but completely sovereign fougere with style. Wearable for all from 15+ with heart and a spark in their eyes. Truly, buena vista!

I've been itching to write a comment about this little masterpiece, which has hardly received any attention, for a few years now. Well, my noble predecessor was quicker. Great description, I couldn't think of anything to add for a long time. But Aigner One Intense truly deserves more attention, so let's get to the keyboard!

I got it back then without knowing the note pyramid. Fortunately! This fragrance combination is something you need to process first. I detect a cinnamon citrus at the start with a hint of aftershave note, quickly joined by an earthy, resinous base. Then a subtle, but clearly perceptible, classic animalic note joins in the background. The cinnamon runs through without being overpowering. The transition of the remaining notes is very fluid. The note pyramid suggests to my perception: citrus notes, cinnamon, labdanum, patchouli, castoreum. One would think that can't possibly go together, but it does. This incredible combination instantly reminds me of a curiosity I encountered while working at a university in England a few years ago. The students there had a sort of exam completion courage cocktail, the so-called "Gorilla Snot." You take dry sherry and add the same amount of Baileys Irish Cream. In the sherry, the cream from the Baileys curdles and clumps. Then add a good splash of crème de menthe. The result is a greenish cloudy brew with green-opaque clumps in it. Cheers!

Number One Intense is, of course, not at all snotty, but it has a hint of gorilla. A gorilla with manners, not loud, but a gorilla. Present! Whoever created this fragrance deserves to be called "Master" in my opinion. Unfortunately, there is no name in the perfume database. The composition is already unique and surprisingly harmonious. The contrast of the individual notes has been put together quite brilliantly. Surprisingly, it also works well in mild, summery temperatures. Not an everyday scent, but definitely an enhancement to my collection. I clearly recommend trying it for anyone looking for something different.