Chapter No. 7 - Vanillas Made To Shock You

There must be a reason vanilla is a favourite fragrance for many people, even if not everyone likes it. When we say vanilla, we often associate it with vanilla body products, or with the creamy aroma of desserts and puddings. But for each of us, it can evoke a unique memory. Today I want to describe four different ways of interpreting vanilla, but in the end, I think you are the only one who has to decide which perfumes you like. But first I want to say something about vanilla and vanilla fragrances.
The discovery of vanilla dates back to the Aztecs, who used it to flavour drinks. Then the conquistadors arrived in Mexico, and brought vanilla with them on ships to Spain, and just like that, this distinctive, delicious flavour made its way across the sea. But it was only in the 20th century that vanilla was introduced into perfumes, up to the present day in the form of bourbon vanilla, vanilla sugar, cupcakes, ice creams, etc. This ingredient is very versatile and blends well with many other notes to create complex fragrances that won’t leave you dizzy after just one sniff. Vanilla itself has a distinguishable sweet, rich and syrupy smell. Sometimes it smells creamy and comforting. If you’ve always wanted to try a vanilla fragrance but are sceptical because someone has labelled it as a “feminine” scent, know that vanilla is genderless, like all perfumes in my opinion. Leaning toward masculine or feminine flavour is fine, but that’s it. That being said, let’s have a sniff at the ZARA Chapter No. 7 Vanilla series.

On the one hand, I started pretty biased with this collection dedicated to vanilla--since, in general, I love semi-sweet and gourmand vanilla in desserts and creams, but I prefer spicy dried vanilla in fragrances. On the other hand, I was extremely eager to test the four pieces because of the rare notes of ink, papyrus, hawthorn, and vanilla mousse mixed among the ingredients.

Supreme Vanilla

Supreme Vanilla has wonderfully balanced oriental notes of tonka, iris, vanilla and sugar from the distinct woody base of this sublime perfume. But the thing that makes this fragrance special is the note of dirty, bitterish, and markedly burnt ink. I remember when I was in school in the 70s, Pelikan was a leading brand in the production of stationery, pens, and inks. And this perfume, with this edgy note, brought me back to school. Extremely polarizing, it is a puzzling start and might be off-putting for some conformist people.
I believe the smokiness and inkiness is what elevates this essence, and sets it apart from other popular vanilla things. This one has a moderate projection but lasts for several hours.
Although the resemblance to Bohemian Oud is obvious, I don’t think it is a re-edition of the same perfume.

Continue reading Prise For A Supreme Love

Starlight Vanilla

A strange oriental fougère, perhaps disturbing but beautiful enough to understand where things are going. Starlight Vanilla is a shapeshifter like the talented Mr. Ripley. It is a lovely Arabian scene, but something more sinister lurks. It announces its presence with the almond accord, a keynote showing itself with bitter and dark edges, with nuances of liquorice and anise. The almond note is present as drupes and milk, reinforcing the bitter edge with a milky touch. The lavender is very subtle and adds a little freshness to the blend with accents of anise, camphor, honey and hay, giving the fragrance its aromaticity.
Starlight Vanilla is ultimately a reasonably sweet scent but not cloying. Non-linear and made primarily from sweet accords. Both projection and longevity are average with this one. A sweet and amber trail with vanilla, not pastry-like, remains on the skin several hours after the first application.

Continue reading A Shapeshifter Like Mr. Ripley

Vanilla Vibration

Vanilla Vibration shows a liquor and alcoholic opening, full of nuances of paper and wood, like the smell that permeates the air inside a historic library full of centuries-old books and ancient shelves. Iris and dusty violet are at the forefront, straight in the face like a punch. Dark, sandy, woody and resinous vanilla comes next.
The fragrance seems to fade and then emits unburned incense-like qualities in a semi-powdery vanilla base. This scent is intoxicating, soft, intense, exotic and resinous. This is the most intimate of the four, with moderate projection and longevity.
The bottom line is that cardamom, iris, and papyrus are the keynotes, while all the others support them.

Continue reading Dusty Ancient Books

Hypnotic Vanilla

This perfume is strangely similar to Hypnotic Poison Eau de Toilette, a perfume that doesn't suit my taste. Both have a sweetish almond note that is too pronounced, and as soon as it warms up on my skin I start to feel a sense of annoyance and discomfort. I have nothing against both, but the total incompatibility prevents me from experiencing the fragrance and fully expressing my feelings. I'm sorry about this and I apologize for the inconvenience. I am sure you will find other useful reviews from those who can appreciate these masterpieces.

If you ever happened to smell, try, or buy one or more of these perfumes, I would be happy to read your opinion on the matter.

I am not a blogger, influencer, or part of an affiliate program. My reviews are based on perfumes I own and purchased between September and October 2023.

-Elysium