Emrego
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Emrego
Good, but redundant if you already have some CdG staples
Finally had the chance to smell the new Zero today. After carefully testing for 6 hours (on paper) here's my review.
Overdose of Cashmeran (velvety, slightly woody musk) and Iso E or Iso Gamma Super (light, abstract cedarwood with musky nuance) backed by Vetiveryl acetate (primary odor molecule of vetiver oil). Typical backbone of the signature CdG DNA, and this is where the connections to Wonderoud (and partially to Wonderwood) makes a lot of sense. WO and WW distinguishes on heavy use of Javanol/Pashminol sandalwood molecules at the base where Zero smells to have none (perhaps tiny amounts of Javanol to support the rose). And with regards to opening, WO and WW open heavy on blackpepper-cypress whereas Zero opens with a punch of bright rose oxide that stays noticable throughout. You could think rose oxide as a more geranium-leaning, metallic, sharper and light peppery pink rose note.
I think I smell damascone or damascenone as well, a bit like dark rose-tobacco note - maybe this is where the "hey, varnish sounds like a cool note" idea comes from.
Did not mention the bergamot note because as usual it's only here to blend in and brighten up the blend.
Drydown reveals the overdose of Cashmeran after top and mids evaporate, traces of rose is still there and in diffusion Iso E/Gamma Super is again there but it's really mostly Cashmeran - you can almost do a side by side with Escentric Molecules - Molecule 05 at this point and both will be quite similar. I must also mention the vetiver is very toned down here compared to what we are used to from CdG.
Overall...This can be very charming, easy to wear, and unique to some. But personally I find it only pleasant, the rose is a nice addition to the CdG pebbles, other than that - I will continue to stick to Wonderoud/wood. Zero did not justify the full retail price against other options for me, if I hadn't have quite a CdG line at my disposal, would definitely give this a go as the abstract modern blend it is.
Overdose of Cashmeran (velvety, slightly woody musk) and Iso E or Iso Gamma Super (light, abstract cedarwood with musky nuance) backed by Vetiveryl acetate (primary odor molecule of vetiver oil). Typical backbone of the signature CdG DNA, and this is where the connections to Wonderoud (and partially to Wonderwood) makes a lot of sense. WO and WW distinguishes on heavy use of Javanol/Pashminol sandalwood molecules at the base where Zero smells to have none (perhaps tiny amounts of Javanol to support the rose). And with regards to opening, WO and WW open heavy on blackpepper-cypress whereas Zero opens with a punch of bright rose oxide that stays noticable throughout. You could think rose oxide as a more geranium-leaning, metallic, sharper and light peppery pink rose note.
I think I smell damascone or damascenone as well, a bit like dark rose-tobacco note - maybe this is where the "hey, varnish sounds like a cool note" idea comes from.
Did not mention the bergamot note because as usual it's only here to blend in and brighten up the blend.
Drydown reveals the overdose of Cashmeran after top and mids evaporate, traces of rose is still there and in diffusion Iso E/Gamma Super is again there but it's really mostly Cashmeran - you can almost do a side by side with Escentric Molecules - Molecule 05 at this point and both will be quite similar. I must also mention the vetiver is very toned down here compared to what we are used to from CdG.
Overall...This can be very charming, easy to wear, and unique to some. But personally I find it only pleasant, the rose is a nice addition to the CdG pebbles, other than that - I will continue to stick to Wonderoud/wood. Zero did not justify the full retail price against other options for me, if I hadn't have quite a CdG line at my disposal, would definitely give this a go as the abstract modern blend it is.
One of the best sandalwoods out there
My signature scent, all time favorite. One of the best sandalwood frag out there. Not sure if anything can beat this. It is heaven. I'm on my 5th Wonderoud bottle, and I've used 2 bottles of Wonderwood in the past. Yes, Wonderoud is very similar to Wonderwood. The biggest difference for me is Wonderoud is more creamy compared to Wonderwood but they are both amazing full throttle wood scents. It is also similar in DNA to Floriental from same house. I think they just multiplied an amazing formula, according to slight differences of taste. Wonderwood is for clean/super dry cedar-pepper-vetiver-leaning, Wonderoud is creamier, warmer/richer version, Floriental is plummy floral and slightly powdery.
This is also the top compliment getter, I've never been complimented more by strangers (most being females). I'm not a fan of dark, heavy oud, so contrary to the name, oud is so muted, pepper and other woods prevail. You will definitely get sandalwood, some black pepper, cedarwood, vetiver before oud. There's a great play of fruity musk type of note in the background, that you only notice when paid attention, which saves the scent from being too dull.
If you feel it's too dry for your taste, try layering with a little Azzaro Visit, to have a bit nutmeg and creamy sweet warm spices. It works great in winter!
Projection and longevity both are great with this one. Sillage is normal to me, but colleagues tell me they can find my exact spot in the building (Pretty sure it's Javanol/Pashminol combo). It is also one of the rare scents that I get olfactory fatigue (again, culprit Javanol and most likely Iso E Super). I've tested it so many times in my daily life, so many nights, with so many noses. I can clearly say that Wonderoud has 2-3 times better performance than Wonderwood. There's nothing better than Wonderoud lingering on your winter scarf, jacket even after weeks...
Ingredients I can pick are:
Javanol (sandalwood) that lasts to eternity, check out EM - Molecule 04),
Cashmeran (musky velvety wood, check out EM - Molecule 05),
Iso E Super (airy radiating light cedar and musk, check out EM - Molecule 01, not exact but very close as Molecule 01 featuring the captive Iso Gamma, not Iso E)
Pepperwood (captive black pepper molecule, used in CdG Blackpepper too and likely in Wonderwood, Blue Santal, Incense series etc)
Vetiver, likely Vetiveryl Acetate (check out Molecule 03)
p.s. It has very little similarity with Encre Noire IMO. As I said, you don't get burnt/dark wood/oud feels with Wonderoud. It is rich, subtle, lasting, and boosting confidence with a clean feeling.
This is also the top compliment getter, I've never been complimented more by strangers (most being females). I'm not a fan of dark, heavy oud, so contrary to the name, oud is so muted, pepper and other woods prevail. You will definitely get sandalwood, some black pepper, cedarwood, vetiver before oud. There's a great play of fruity musk type of note in the background, that you only notice when paid attention, which saves the scent from being too dull.
If you feel it's too dry for your taste, try layering with a little Azzaro Visit, to have a bit nutmeg and creamy sweet warm spices. It works great in winter!
Projection and longevity both are great with this one. Sillage is normal to me, but colleagues tell me they can find my exact spot in the building (Pretty sure it's Javanol/Pashminol combo). It is also one of the rare scents that I get olfactory fatigue (again, culprit Javanol and most likely Iso E Super). I've tested it so many times in my daily life, so many nights, with so many noses. I can clearly say that Wonderoud has 2-3 times better performance than Wonderwood. There's nothing better than Wonderoud lingering on your winter scarf, jacket even after weeks...
Ingredients I can pick are:
Javanol (sandalwood) that lasts to eternity, check out EM - Molecule 04),
Cashmeran (musky velvety wood, check out EM - Molecule 05),
Iso E Super (airy radiating light cedar and musk, check out EM - Molecule 01, not exact but very close as Molecule 01 featuring the captive Iso Gamma, not Iso E)
Pepperwood (captive black pepper molecule, used in CdG Blackpepper too and likely in Wonderwood, Blue Santal, Incense series etc)
Vetiver, likely Vetiveryl Acetate (check out Molecule 03)
p.s. It has very little similarity with Encre Noire IMO. As I said, you don't get burnt/dark wood/oud feels with Wonderoud. It is rich, subtle, lasting, and boosting confidence with a clean feeling.
