Reach for the Stars - An Interview with Sofia Bardelli

Sofia Bardelli is one of the rising stars in perfumery and, as coincidence would have it, her own brand, In Astra, which she founded together with her sister Fabiola, also deals with the theme of stars. With determination and passion, she has become what she herself envisions and translates into scent for her brand, shining bright among her comrades in a crowded fragrance sky.

Dear Sofia, take us on a little journey through your life. At which point did you know you want to become a perfumer and realized you have the ability to be one?

I wanted to become a perfumer when I watched a documentary about Grasse and its history, but I only realized I could become one when I was accepted into the GIP (Grasse Institute of Perfumery) after graduating in pharmacy.

What would have been your profession if you didn’t succeed in perfumery?

I can’t see myself outside the perfume industry, but I would have been a pilot.

Given the fact that the fragrance market sees so many new launches and brands each year, what still made it clear to you (and your sister) to start your own brand early on in your career as a perfumer? What did you think would make In Astra stand out from other brands?

Fabiola and I have always wished to create our own brand as an artistic expression of our love for perfume. In Astra is in fact a tribute to our passion for stars and the universe, which is for us the form of art par excellence. Astronomy is the perfect union of art and science, just as artistic perfumery is. Our project came from the desire to enrich the olfactory panorama and accompany consumers on a unique journey that would awaken their senses. Attention to detail is the distinctive feature that makes In Astra stand out: we wanted the concept of In Astra to be all-pervading in the scents themselves, by carefully selecting raw materials that better tell the tale of the star, and in the packaging itself, which coherently represents visually and tactilely the essence of the brand.

How is a star translated into perfume? What criteria are considered choosing a specific star and the suitable (main) ingredient to represent it?

I like to think of the storytelling; every star has in fact its own story in many respects: mythological, scientific, philosophical. It becomes quite easy for a creative person to make a connection with raw materials and weave a story.

Other brands have touched the themes of astrology and stars as well, but don’t necessarily make it their main theme. Are you familiar with any of these?

When we launched In Astra back in 2020, stars and universe were not so hyped and no other brand had built its identity around the astronomical or star theme. This last year has seen a lot of brands launching perfumes with names of constellations and stars, which is hardly understandable how they encompass the brand’s identity. We are positively surprised by how in recent years the theme of “stars - universe” has become a trend in the perfume industry and has quickly been embraced by so many brands.

How is a new nose discovered after perfumery school? Would you pitch ideas to people in the business or would they come across your work by chance? What was your experience with becoming known for your craft?

In the perfume industry one becomes known for their work, their signed creations. This profession does involve in fact a lot of training and is a continuous learning practice.

My first encounter with your creations was when I tested the collection you created for the brand Sãlum, Polynesian Soul. I wrote about them and concluded by saying that I think you are able to present a specific theme multifacetedly and I’m sure we will read your name more often in the future.

How did the collaboration come about and how difficult or easy is it for you to work on a brief and make not one, but four scents out of it simultaneously?

I was contacted by Massimiliano Minorini. It is not such big a deal to create scents simultaneously as it is my activity on daily basis. The trick to compose fragrances for any other brand is to thoroughly understand the brand identity and what it wants to express through scents.

In fact, he chose your expertise again for his third offering Treasure Island which I look forward to. Can you give us a little preview of what to expect?

The new collection shares the same DNA as the previous one, notes that can be simple at first, but that are witty and complex at the same time.

As a creator of fragrances, you will most certainly consider them all to be satisfactory works. Is it possible at all to have your own favorite, a certain creation you consider a stand out or are those thoughts you personally just don’t have?

It is possible indeed to have my own favorite and it is the fragrance I am most attached to among those I have composed: it’s Mismar (In Astra). It took me 3 years to create this perfume as it shared the path with me and we evolved together.

What can we expect from Sofia Bardelli, the perfumer, and from In Astra, the brand, in the future?

You can expect some novelties but I cannot say more. Just inviting you to stay tuned!

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These fragrances were created by Sofia Bardelli.