Gesch

I seem to have a penchant for the love of discontinued fragrances. So I am already mourning my last milliliters of the scent "Mania 1999" by Armani. Spicy-fresh-interesting-creamy. Why on earth did they discontinue this?

The search for a replacement began - FM fragrance 177 contains the notes, is affordable, and hopefully won't stop shipping right away.

Unfortunately, the scent does not live up to my expectations - that would be too good! It comes close, but lacks enough spice and creaminess to be a suitable replacement for Mania. It also smells too citrusy for my taste for too long.

So the search continues. I want the scent, but I don't want to have to spend up to €100 for 50ml!

- at least that's what it says on the bottle. The notes mentioned are:
Top notes: cassis and rhubarb. Heart: jasmine, lotus and cardamom. Base: orris root, amber, musk, tonka bean, apricot and peach.

I swapped for this fragrance in the hope of finding something similar to the still dearly loved "Le Feu d'Issey." I couldn't confirm this expectation for myself.

What I smell is a spicy-sour fruit - which could fit well with the mix of rhubarb and cassis. However, I also smell something green and unfortunately not pleasant for me - possibly the lily of the valley or a hint of orris root...

The fragrance has an orange character for me: spicy, a bit woody but also with slightly spicy-fresh qualities.
It starts with this slightly sour-fruity spice, carrying it into a spicier greener heart, where a warm vanilla note already comes through, with a slightly fresh woody character.

The fragrance is not intrusive, not too light and not too heavy, staying rather close to the wearer. This composition reminds me of some fragrance - but I can't quite put my finger on it, so I can understand why someone felt reminded of Le Feu. In my opinion, it is just as elusive.

The longer and more often I smell it, the more I like it. It is not typical for a category and although it smells quite feminine, it is not a girly scent.
I would categorize it alongside "Easy Krizia," "Dans tes bras," and "Aimez Moi."
However, while I immediately fell for the other three, it takes a bit longer with this one. We'll see...

I can only furrow my brow at the previous comment and the association with Alien, and once again bow to our scent receptors and their uniqueness.
Be that as it may: This fragrance represents for me the attempt to blend red and white fermented grapes and enrich them with honey. A rather special fruity-floral that is better than many people think.
As long as you like sweetness, grapes, and amber, this fragrance is spot on. I don't really pick out the other notes, but the three strongest notes are surrounded by additional honeycomb.

I can only wear this fragrance rarely, as I really have to be in the mood for "raisins" and "wine," but overall I find it very successful. However, the bottle is more than impractical to use...

I should really know better by now, but I keep trying my hand at full-blooded chypres: They are one of the most classic and beloved members of the chypre family, and I still expect to find one that I like...

Unfortunately: No!

After all these perfumes, I still can't appreciate moss, aldehydes, and those green flowers.

And although I don't discover this scent for myself: When I smell this one, I immediately think of Dioressence, which my grandma always used. It’s not as complex and refined, but I recommend this one to anyone who misses the old formula of Dioressence.

The oak moss is not duplicated here yet, and it is such a green, and at the same time classically fresh, floral scent...

I find it very pleasant to smell from time to time, but over time I feel "dressed up" with it. And also annoyed, maybe because I feel like I've secretly used grandma's perfume and should now be ashamed.

I chased this scent for a long time until I could finally swap for it. I was sooooo sure that I would enjoy the fragrance until the last drop - because what more could one want?
Smoky tobacco, vanilla (combination long before Tom Ford), tonka, heliotropes, and magnolias. Perfect! The vanilla here is not sweet but simply a nuance of the fragrance. And the tobacco is fabulously smoky and balsamic. Everything is just fantastic, especially since the heliotropes are in the spotlight here.

Unfortunately:
I unfortunately smell a strong note of moss. And this moss note is what makes this fragrance so special and interesting. Unfortunately, it is a note that I do not particularly appreciate. (Just like lily of the valley is a horror for me...)
And notes that one does not particularly appreciate are known to be perceived very clearly. If it weren't for this moss, I would defend and cherish this fragrance to the utmost with fierce attacks. But as it is, I will let it go...

Overall, in my opinion, the scent is comparable to the great designers. The quality, the composition, and the longevity are fantastic. I can well imagine that this fragrance might appeal to those who appreciate Shalimar and L'Heure Bleu...