IrisNobile

not too long ago, I elevated the EdP to the status of my favorite companion - - my new signature scent -
quasi subsidiary to the EdT described here, which unfortunately is no longer produced and is simply even more beautiful, even more radiant - - the more fragrant older sister - which is what this is about.

Regarding the often incomprehensible practices of the perfume industry - to constantly reformulate the most beautiful perfumes, only to present us with a rather more generic creation - more common, adjusted to the supposedly broader taste - with the motto eat or die - this has already been addressed in relation to some formerly fantastically composed perfumes.
And as can also be heard here, I am not the only disappointed member who painfully misses this special island wood.
B u t ........ I don't want to say that the EdP isn't also a great scent, just not quite with the same attributes and it is not by chance currently my preferred companion.

I am slowly realizing that I often comment on scents that are no longer available or are hard to find.
So be it! .... they are worth a comment ..... and love carries the heart on the tongue .... :))

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The bottle is already a beautiful sight, the shape of noble-modern straightness ...... And as the first sprays pass through my nose - I perceive this aquatically underlaid scent - my limbic system is instantly set into ecstatic excitement ;)) ... and then - - - - - I grow wings :p
From then on, I believe I am soaring like a huge bird with a mild warm wind ......

To ....
over land and sea
to faraway places
to the islands under the wind
whose aquatic breath
carries the fruity aromas of the southern hemisphere
and the warmth of sun-dried silvery weathered island wood ...
to creep under my wings deep into my soul ..............

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The scent begins with the bright fruitiness of citrus top notes - noticeably led by the Mediterranean freshness of mandarins - whose radiance is immediately absorbed into dry warm wood and enveloped by delicate ylang-ylang floral notes. This also subtly adds a lovely floral aura to this community.

It is the mandarins in the top note that, according to my research, are primarily responsible for this truly perceptible aquatic note and subtly weave the impression of southern, sea-kissed coasts.

The seductive base notes with their fine vanilla components give the final aromatic touch. Their inherent natural sweetness acts like a delicate veil and is absolutely pleasant and unobtrusive.
The beautiful silvery-bright accord brought by the aquatic elements remains throughout the entire scent journey and makes the fragrance experience of the perfume bright, light, and fine like a friendly summer day at the sea ..... and both men and women can enjoy it for at least 6 hours .....

The "synergistic effect" of the rather limited ingredients evokes a scent of the highest class - an elegant masterpiece of nobility - - a fragrance with great wingspan ... ;))

I naturally ask myself again - whether it makes sense to write a comment about a perfume that has been taken off the market, which potential interested parties can hardly get their hands on anymore.
But what the heck ….. I have to get this off my chest now!... :)

It is a perfume - of course - of older provenance - but this fact - after repeated sniffing - makes me forget the quarter century it has on its rounded back, due to the truly pleasant feeling it provides.
And it could just as well be a green scent of today's taste.

The daily paths I take lead me and my dog again and again over lush green meadows, past beautiful gardens, through large shady city parks, and through bright forests this summer.
One can almost grasp this wonderful nature - breathe it in. When everything around you is truly in the bloom of its life - or rather at the zenith of its beauty - -
The green summer foliage presents itself in all its shades - -
the full flower heads of summer in the gardens want to display themselves in competing vanity.


During one of these walks, I wore Tendre Poison.
Either nature enhances and completes the sensation of the perfume or my "delicate poison" intensifies the perception of nature - -
For I walked through a green land of longing - -

While initially I was overwhelmed by the flowers from the gardens bordering the meadows - the green of the nearby forest becomes increasingly clear - -

A gentle wind softly brushes through the dense canopy above me, making the rays of the sun dance on the forest path …..
the green-cool breeze is surrounded again and again by slightly sweet-floral wafts -
Along the forest path mainly shaded by beeches, a small brook flows and accompanies us with its babbling on our way. It weaves a hint of aquatic freshness into the floral-green mood.

The feeling of fresh-green purity in a still cool morning flower garden with its richly nuanced floral abundance would be an adequate interpretation of this beautiful old creation.

And it was in this small forest edge area that we wandered through that I truly became aware of the associations that the delicate green-floral scent carries within it.
If it is a poison, then a pleasurable one - much like a good wine, from whose enjoyment one can also reach this lightly floating step - -

I cannot determine which gender would suit it best. - For me, despite the official recommendation for the more feminine species among us - it is a unisex perfume - which has a subtle sillage, yet a good medium longevity.

A green-floral scent, almost appearing distinguished, with a minimal soapy-fresh note, that not only attracts the flying admirers of nature ……… :))

your spice refines juicy fruits -
your roses enchant the senses -
with you I let myself fall -
onto a soft bed -
of musk and vanilla -

I don't really want to write poetry - - but I am once again enchanted - and more than impressed - -
in this case by a rose scent!! …..
Rose scents ……. actually not my desired fragrance direction - , because they usually come across as too flowery harmless, sweet, and boring ……

Different with this beautiful rose from the Middle East, which, after I have freed it from its Pentagon -, conveys the following to my senses ……

Once you have overcome the few steps from the slightly musty-earthy cellar with large strides and reached the bright garden, whose magnificent roses lean lushly and heavily into the light and impregnate the air along with its full-bodied fruits -, you are reconciled.
Reconciled with the beginning of this fragrance, which might scare some at first …….
I suspect it is the patchouli in the base, which pushes itself dramatically to the forefront for my nose right from the start and creates a typical and often described, slightly musty impression.
In agreement with an immediately present citrus note, it tries to assert itself a bit, but in this intensity it quickly recedes to create a beautiful rounding later in this concert …….

First come the apricots - - then the roses ;)

When I enter this garden after the subjectively perceived musty intermezzo -, I first smell the ripeness of juicy apricots, infused with the aroma of cinnamon and almonds, which somewhat capture the fruitiness of the fragrance and round it off gourmandishly …….. above all, a delicate warm spice hovers - , possibly stemming from the tobacco that deliciously weaves in, the vetiver, and the essential oil of special Afghan roses from the Nangarhar province, which, according to the description, also contributes a certain spicy component with its aroma of spices and plums.

The fantastic interaction of the ingredients listed in the pyramid results in a delicate fruity-powdery, minimally spicy event, in which the softened patch takes on the role of the powdery effect, and in which the wonderful roses secretly frolic …..
secretly - - …. , because they do not predominantly determine the perfume, but rather carry it along cleverly, thus giving the scent a velvety depth and a very noble aura. - - I also believe I can perceive delicate woody notes in between.

Equally at the end of their virtuoso performance, the actors of this magnificent artifact sink under the influence of subtly sweet amber on a powdered soft musk-vanilla cloud and form a fantastic drydown.
And in contrast to my skeptical attitude towards sweet rose waters, this fragrance does not convey the impression of an arbitrary perfume of this species at any stage.

A creation that absolutely enchants unisex and, in its sillage effect, makes a real statement without being overly assertive.
The longevity extends from day into night. And with the warmth of summer days/nights, the fragrance wafts enchants the wearer and their environment even more in my opinion.

Andy Tauer is probably not able to produce this perfume in a consistently uniform quantity - , as the oil of these special roses is not available in unlimited supply ………
therefore - - one should not be afraid of scarcity - and if it pleases - then bunker purchases are worthwhile ;) :)

for the never-ending fragrance concert of the abundance of lush summer gardens ….. :))

it was her birthday -, .... she turned 21 - .... finally of age! ....
A sunny, still somewhat cool day - - in her small attic room, the early sunlight gathered on the ceiling above her bed, streaming in through the open curtains and making its reflections dance. Still sleepy, she watched the playing lights -, looking forward to the day.
From the kitchen came the clattering of dishes, and on the radio, Rudi Schuricke once again let the sun sink into the sea at Capri - .... now she was fully awake! ...
Mother was surely setting the breakfast table with her usual loving care. - She quickly slipped into her bathrobe -, my God, how beautiful! -, it was the weekend -, time for "Z e i t" and all conceivable plans with friends. - Would Martin think of her today or might he even come by?
She had only known him for a short time, but she had fallen hard .....
Relaxed, she stepped onto the small balcony surrounded by sturdy bricks, which offered a wonderful view of the morning scene from the 5th floor - over the lower houses, over the fairground at the end of the street, where the structures of the spring festival still lay firmly closed and abandoned - ... here and there, a showman's dog barked .... The deep sun pressed powerfully through the narrow gaps between the houses, creating golden light stripes. - In the corner house opposite, the neighbor was already watering her balcony boxes -, she spotted her and waved.
All of this greeted the birthday girl today! ... Inspired by these simple, familiar impressions, she returned to her room. - Then came her mother's call ....."Gerdi ... breakfast!!" Although she was now 'of age', she was still far from being grown-up -, at least in the eyes of her parents.
She stayed in her bathrobe and walked down the long narrow hallway to the kitchen ... , like every weekend, when the little family casually had breakfast together.
For her daughter's special day, Mother had procured champagne and created a cocktail called Kikeriki with trendy egg liqueur and draft beer, not without quickly treating herself to a pure sip of egg liqueur from a cut-glass cup and toasting her daughter. After all, they could afford it again, after the years of deprivation.
And the gradually prospering economy made it possible for the family income to enjoy even - seemingly unnecessary - luxury - - They had work -, that was important.

Luxury, like what she now perceived with a surprised face .... , her gift! ... Her great wish ... , "Mitsouko" ... , the perfume of her aunt, which had captivated her so much. - Mother had surely made a financial effort, although a bottle of 4711 still stood unchanged on her nightstand -, it was needed -, not only as a fragrance, no -, often as a first-aid scent bottle for general malaise, and it was also a reliable remedy for dabbing on the forehead for headaches. - ... Not for Gerda! .... She preferred the mysterious scent of her attractive, witty, yet somewhat eccentric favorite aunt, who led an extraordinary and sparkling life. - And now she was to receive it! -
While meanwhile Catharina Valente let all of Paris dream of love, Mother firmly demanded - - - open it!! ....
There was no stopping her - Gerdi impatiently opened the deliberately unwrapped perfume .... , took out the small coveted bottle, which was designed in a shape between straightforwardness and playfulness, influenced by Art Nouveau and Art Deco -, opened the cap and sprayed it on her wrist and hair ....
A scent that - as her mother repeatedly interjected - was actually not intended for a "young girl"! ...

She vehemently denied this and sank devotedly under the veil of this fragrance, which at first startled her slightly due to the intensity of the oak moss .... , her aunt smelled completely different! .... But then it began to unfold with its brilliant composition ...
And she reveled - , .... was no longer in that kitchen ... , as the scent veil wrapped around her with its fine spicy notes, enveloping the delicate peach and the fruity ingredients dusted with a hint of cinnamon in its fabric, allowing one of the selected flowers to shimmer through here and there and turning into a green-spicy powdery magic .....
This extravagant, somewhat androgynous aura, with its initially fine soft edelweiss note -, ... the scent, whose green soul is framed by seductively warm spicy-fruity floral notes -, enchants her and perfectly matches her style .....

There was a ring at the door ..... - - "G e r d i" ! ..... Martin has come! ...... Mother's call abruptly pulled her from one bliss into another - -
(they became a couple - perhaps Mitsouko was involved :)
And it was she who introduced me to Mitsouko ..... this sensual, stylish old perfume creation that has enchanted many generations and will likely never lose its magic ....

Absolutely unisex wearable and - like many perfumes of that time - not so easily dismissed from the "skin"! :)

the name - rather sharp and coarse, than pleasing and imaginative -; ... I will neglect the adjective pleasing for now -, imaginative yes! - with every sniff, different, completely subjective worlds open up. One person may find themselves in the 20s, 30s, or 40s, while another perhaps looks back to the 70s/80s :)
Moreover, the name suggests a perfume with a presumably strong bovine leather note - masculine, rugged, strict -; as a woman, one might not even want to reach for it. - But far from it! .... I may not perceive the possibly integrated leather as prominent.
However ..., for all "Chypre lovers" - there is something for you! Once again, an astonishing scent from the Lehmann family - - - for lovers of the older charm of the Chypre genre.

My enthusiasm for the creations of this small old fragrance manufactory began with the beautiful "Verité," which has since become one of the most frequently used sensual soul soothers in my perfume collection. -
Verité is an Oriental - Russian Leather is a wonderful contrast.

By the way, dear Angua is to blame! - Tempted by her great comment down here, she prompted me to place another order from Berlin. -
"7 in one go" - were subsequently ordered by me, and among them was also Russian Leather. 7 in one go is neither financially nor quantitatively excessive; you can order from 10 ml, and at prices that are incredibly fair - I already praised that in the Verité comment.

In the meantime, I have thoroughly tested 3 or 4 perfumes from Harry Lehmann - and - it is a fascination with these scents ...... no one would suspect that these wonderfully created olfactory gems, with their complex quality, do not come from some large old French perfume house - if they were presented in appropriate bottles.
I assume that RJuchten was launched by its creators between the 20s and 50s, at a time when probably other great chypre-like perfumes were also released. A zeitgeist perfume, so to speak, which still possesses a great aura today ...., like many others.

Before me stand perfumes like:
Ma Griffe, Quadrille, Norell, Fendi, Imprevu, Mitsouko, also Calèche and the like - all relatives around the 5th corner ;)) .... all chypre-like floral or spicy - and very much loved by me.
The essential scent characteristics of Chypre are recognizable in RJuchten just like in the other relatives, without the respective perfumes of this genre losing their unique charisma.

The scent:
With a pyramid, which unfortunately does not exist here either, it would be better to follow - my nose would, in any case, determine this fine "fruit-flower-spice" typical for a Chypre scent with a certain clean note, which takes everyone into their own decade of the 20th century. - And yes - as Angua also noted, cinnamon was also cooked in this scent ;) But leather!? - I unfortunately can't pinpoint it. In the drydown, the scent becomes noble and soft ....... There are question marks - of course. - In any case, it has captured me! ....

RJuchten does not dance at all weddings! - It primarily enjoys the dignified-elegant milieu and does not prefer any gender. Men and women both smell wonderful. And by no means as strict as its name might suggest.
The longevity of the "Lehmann" perfumes is as remarkable as the scents themselves; particularly long-lasting on noble fabrics, such as wool and silk ..... and of course on the noblest - - - our skin :)

Addendum 11.02.:
I must revise myself - ashes on my head :) ... Of course, leather is present! And indeed a very fine noble one - nothing coarse - that only becomes truly perceptible in the scent's conclusion and contributes to the pleasant warm, soft note. I just let it work once more. - My nose might not have forgiven the last cold yet ;) Why else would the term 'Juchten' also be used!? .... sorry Mr. Lehmann .... ;)