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Summer at Traunsee
On the occasion of a very fine Viennese perfume meeting, the Filz perfumery at Graben was also visited. A dangerous treasure chest that I have never left empty-handed. Among other things, I received a sample of Grüner Hirsch.
The fragrance notes listed here are - not surprisingly - marketing fluff at its finest, under which one can hardly imagine anything original and which also have nothing to do with the scent.
Much more, it is a pleasant fruity-light citrus Eau de Cologne that quickly becomes soft and close to the skin. So, a summer multi-sprayer scent, and in other seasons also suitable for those who prefer it subtle or who need to be slowly introduced to fragrances by their better halves..... In my opinion, unisex.
I do not perceive a forest note or noble tropical woods. Sage is more in its muscatel sage form. At first, as mentioned, fruity-citrus-sour-makes-fun, then it becomes close and cuddly. A very pleasant composition, not revolutionary.
I find the collaboration with Gmunder Keramik very charming and with this scent, it is definitely a worthy Austrian souvenir.
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Rose-PatchOudh Chypre, classic
My very first impression was: "Not another one of those meaningless floral waters for people and markets that only like perfumes without scent but with fabric softener!"
But that would have been very far off, because within a few seconds a classic rose chypre emerges. The patchouli counterpoint is modernized with a bit of wood and minimal oud synthetic.
Even the fabric softener fades away after about 1 hour. Paris-Paris then develops somewhat in the direction of unisex. What remains is a very classic, elegant, and mature fragrance that I would rather wear in the fall. With a little suit and pearl necklace for an appointment at the notary.
The adventurous gentleman can also give it a try, but he will probably be happier with "Paris - Édimbourg | Chanel."
Overall solidly made, but definitely nothing new. You can have it in your collection to cover the rose chypre flank. But you don't have to, especially since there is a lot of good stuff in this segment at more acceptable prices.
This interpretation of the city of love is rather strict and not particularly cheerful or even frivolous. It's a bit of a shame...
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Love for Vintage
Futur came to me as part of a swap loop. To start: it ended very beautifully with him! A first sniff immediately indicated that I would delve deeper into the scent once the right mood struck. Well, that mood was there over the sunny but cool Easter holidays, and the wait paid off.
Futur is definitely not a future scent, but rather something for vintage enthusiasts. It comes from a time when perfumes could still be dirty, sweaty, and indecent. The focus was not on the fabric softener clean scent! Nevertheless, its slight indecency is well balanced.
The foundation of the fragrance is chypre based on white flowers. Then there are some spices and woods to round it out, along with a pinch of indecency that I really like, but which is not exactly zeitgeist in the year 2022. To sum it up, I would say that Futur could be the messy and somewhat worn big sister of "First (Eau de Toilette) | Van Cleef & Arpels," with a slightly more restrained ylang note. However, Futur could also be the less intense, distant cousin of "Azurēe | Estēe Lauder."
After the unmistakable opening, Futur develops more discreetly, intimately, and drier than the floral little sister. And overall more wearable than the wicked cousin.
And it has already brought me several compliments. So Futur shouldn’t be that indecent after all.
Or maybe it is.....
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Happy Birthday Venice!
In keeping with the city's long trading tradition, a perfume was launched in 2021 to celebrate the 1,600th birthday, created by the makers of the Merchant of Venice line. Apparently, algae and their not particularly pleasant byproducts for the lagoon contributed to the packaging. One could cynically view this as politically correct, zeitgeist-driven money-making or simply enjoy the fragrance and the city.
As a lover of Venice, I choose the latter for once.
Venezia 1600 Sal comes very close to a sea breeze scent, with sweetness balancing the saltiness. I would shorten the aforementioned notes to Calone, a hint of floral sweetness, and softener musk. However, they work together unexpectedly charmingly and pleasingly.
For fans of various Aqua di Gio, etc., it's definitely worth a test, and for fans of Venice, even more so. Definitely unisex; I like the scent on my boyfriend almost even more :)
In summary: If it weren't for the Venezia 1600 logo on the bottle, combined with the purchasing experience in a delightful little perfumery in Venice, the fragrance surely wouldn't have been worth a glance for me. I gladly and willingly pass on aquatics with Calone and other synthetics with clean undertones. But sometimes, marketing works even on the hard-hearted, who are pleased to have fallen into the Venice trap!
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The Enlightenment Came in London
Chanel N°5 has always been for me the Eau de Toilette version of my grandmother. I found it flowery and old-fashioned as a child in the 70s.
During my perfume workshop at 4160Tuesdays, I had the opportunity to explore the Vintage Vault. And there we were able to discover the Eau de Cologne version. That was a real enlightenment. Not flowery and old-fashioned at all! That’s how the legendary number 5 should be: The bottle was from the late 40s, the scent perfectly preserved, Mademoiselle Chanel's spirit was among us.
She probably spoke to me too, but I was so intoxicated that I can't remember exactly :)
Barely back from London, I organized 2 bottles, you never know...
The EdC is significantly less flowery than the EdT, less sweet but drier, more aldehydic. More Roaring 20s than demure 50s. More jersey dress than Dior corset. And thus resolutely modern, timeless, and elegant.
Subsequently, for comparison purposes, I also had to get the Vintage Extrait version, purely for scientific comparison, of course...
The Extrait is, of course, also a dream, but closer to the body. The EdC has more sillage, shoulder pads in a way. Otherwise, they are very similar, as they are not as flowery as the EdT.
Overall, the wearer - or the wearer - should be close to aldehydes and not allergic to white flowers, as a floral base cannot be denied, although it is processed in a modern way.
One of my Holy Grails, to return to the diction of the present and end the trance state!