Leatherama | Part 4

It’s Sunday again and I am back at it for the fourth week in a row - the consistency has been extreme! With this post, we’re crossing the 30-fragrance milestone...
We’re now deep in “heavy slapper” territory, where the scents are bold, the animalic notes may be unapologetic, and in some cases the price tags might just make your eyes water. These aren’t your everyday spritz-and-go fragrances. Each one brings something exaggerated to the table: outrageous intensity, primal funk, or sheer luxury madne$$. But one thing’s for sure: they all demand to be sampled.
As always, a quick disclaimer: these scores are entirely subjective, based on my personal experience and taste. No lab coats or scientific instruments were harmed in the making of these lists.
Now, let’s get into the good stuff!

Amouage - Overture Man | 9/10
Overture Man by Amouage is a resinous composition that unfolds in layers, beginning with a spicy, boozy flourish. The opening is very rich/warm with cognac, cardamom, cumin, and saffron. As the scent evolves, myrrh and labdanum take center stage, lending a dense, syrupy-resinous quality that dominates the heart.
I like cumin, but I realise that some might find Overture challenging for the usual BO association - I can only suggest sampling.

The leather note, while not a leading player at all, is present in the base and contributes to the overall depth. It is smoky and animalic, but still wearable. Rather than evoking rawhide, it leans toward a dark, polished leather... more suggestive of a well-aged armchair.
These animalic undertones, bolstered by the listed “animal notes” and frankincense, get close to barnyard territory at times, but are tempered by the sweetness of benzoin, creamy sandalwood and a bit of cinnamon which I can't always smell.
Projection is substantial for 3-4 hours, then Overture will remain noticeable well beyond 12 hours on skin. It’s one of Amouage best (or beast?) performers, ideal for colder months and open-air settings. Personally, I would wear it for a formal event, ignoring the climate conditions :)

Leather has a supporting roles in Overture Man's choreography: smoky, slightly feral, but never dominant. It adds texture rather than taking the spotlight. For those who appreciate leather as part of a broader, complex narrative, this earns a solid place in the Leatherama lineup.
- Leather component: secondary, dark aged leather
- Animalic rudeness: close to barnyardy, but balanced by sweeter notes; comes close to Cruz del Sur I, but it is one notch below it

Xerjoff - Tony Iommi Monkey Special | 9/10
In my opinion Monkey Special is a genre-defying fragrance that weaves leather into a rich tapestry of sweet, spicy, and woody accords. The leather here doesn’t dominate, it simmers beneath the surface, adding depth to an already rich blend. It emerges in the heart of the fragrance, where it mingles with cinnamon, patchouli, and a bit of rose, creating a warm, spicy core that feels luxurious.

The leather in Monkey Special is balanced. It’s not animalic, but rather smooth and polished, with a suede tendency. It anchors the sweetness of the opening - where passion fruit, rum, and bergamot create a quasi-exotic overture - and bridges it into the creamy, woody base of sandalwood, caramel, tonka, and ambergris (if you can smell it).

In my experience, it’s a scent that matures with maceration, improving in longevity and projection over time... your patience will be rewarded.
- Leather component: secondary, suede-like
- Animalic rudeness: none

Marc-Antoine Barrois - Ganymede | 9/10
Yes, it is controversial. 2019, composed by the Bisch himself - who then replicated it a number of times for a number of different brands. I understand why.

Inspired more by Greek mythology than galactic bodies, this fragrance is the most paradigmatic on my lists - no doubt. It had an odd introduction to the market, and it became progressively more relevant after Bisch started working on Parfums de Marly projects.

Perhaps it is not my favourite scent wise, but at launch (and when I first smelled it) it was unique. I still remember the moment when I sprayed it in MAB's boutique in London. Ganymede has a metallic, mandarine edge with some kind of "lab-made" florals. I rarely associate fragrances to ideas or concepts, but Ganymede gives me the idea of fractal architecture, and (most importantly, for this list) futuristic suede leather - not animalic, just aseptic.

We can discuss and bash certain recent Bisch creations, but I am sure that Ganymede will be remembered as a classic in the years to come. You might not like it, but if you're into fragrances it is a must try.
- Leather component: primary, but other notes will match its presence
- Animalic rudeness: the opposite, as the leather accord in Ganymede is aseptic

Francesca Bianchi - The Lover's Tale | 9/10
At this point of the list, we are considering fragrances that excel under one or many aspects, and The Lover’s Tale deserves to be here for many reasons. Francesca's work is a compelling example of leather fragrances in independent perfumery. It is an animalic and emotionally charged composition (if you read its narrative) that balances raw aspects with delicate nuances. The leather here is the centerpiece: bold, vintage-inspired, and animalic, with a slight barnyard edge, but with an intimate twist.

In this perfume, the raw leather is softened by jasmine, powdery rose, and iris, creating a floral chypre structure that feels both "tender and dangerous". This carefully balanced duality makes it one of the rare truly unisex leather dominant fragrances I've encountered.

Compared to Guerlain’s Cuir Intense, The Lover’s Tale feels more refined and mellow in its opening, thanks to the presence of honey and peach. It also outperforms it in longevity and sillage. While Cuir Intense is still a strong, well-crafted leather, it plays (slightly) safer and leans more traditionally masculine. The Lover’s Tale, by contrast, is more daring and evocative, though potentially overwhelming for those unaccustomed to the boldness of independent perfumery.

Its high score reflects not only the richness of the scent and its excellent performance, but also its value. This is a fragrance that punches well above its price point. For lovers of leather, it’s without a doubt, a must-try.
- Leather component: dominant
- Animalic rudeness: borderline barnyardy, softened by sweetness and florals

Louis Vuitton - Ombre Nomade | 9.25/10
Here we go, let's start with a bold statement! Ombre Nomade is one of the most refined executions of oud, rose, and leather in contemporary perfumery among the fragrances I managed to try. It opens with a smoky, very resinous oud (which may smell "bitter") wrapped in raspberry and rose, creating a rich, velvety texture that feels both opulent. It’s in the late drydown - after 4 to 6 hours - that the leather truly shines, emerging with a smooth, suede-like elegance that gives it an even more luxurious, tactile finish.

While Ombre Nomade is not overtly animalic in the traditional sense (i.e. there are no barnyard or civet-like notes) it does carry a subtle, smoldering animalic undertone that adds depth. This comes primarily from the interplay between the oud's smokiness and the leathery base, which together create a skin-like texture that feels intimate. It’s a refined kind of animalic, more suggestive than explicit, and it won't be something that you will immediately notice.

In my view, Ombre Nomade strikes the perfect quasi-mass appealing balance between floral refinement, oud depth, and leather warmth. It’s a fragrance that evolves over time, with excellent longevity (10-12 hours on skin) and respectable projection.

For the reasonable people seeking alternatives, Oros Pure Leather Gold (by Armaf) offers a surprisingly strong take on the same DNA - leaning heavier on oud and leather, which I personally prefer. On the other end of the spectrum, Mana by Nishane is the “endgame” version: even more powerful (14h+ on skin), with a darker, more intense oud presence. If you’re after a rosier twist, Royal Night is worth exploring.

Ombre Nomade delivers a niche-level quality and complexity. The price remains steep for an Eau de Parfum, but within the context of LV’s brand positioning, it’s a standout, at least for its olfactory impact.
- Leather component: becomes dominant after a few hours, until the fragrance eventually fades out
- Animalic rudeness: subtle