Mossoak

The milkiness is most noticeable in the opening, where it resembles a dash of sweetened condensed milk. Moving forward into the heart and base, that note recedes into the background and 21 lives off the contrast between a clean laundry type musk, the sweetness of the patchouli, tonka and vanilla and the astringency of woods, florals, spices and oakmoss. A unique yet somehow familiar experience. I can see why a previous reviewer drew a parallel to Coromandel. If you look at Coromandel as a plushly arranged 70's soft rock composition, then 21 could be a 2000's EDM variation on the same theme, revealing less note separation and a more thumping base (bass). Also, the former's often mentioned white chocolate facets here find a substitute in the illusion of milk. Moderate to good sillage and longevity.

When looking at the notes, I expected this to be a typically Italian, zingy and fresh cologne style experience. But to my nose, this turned out to be a rather realistic interpretation of a lemon cake. Where Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche stops at hinting at lemon meringues, Ambra Calabria gives you the full-on gourmand experience, including the buttery batter and the lightly roasted notes from its browned exterior. Not my type of thing at all but anyone who is into that scent profile should sample it.

After wearing this for quite a while, the initial wave of enthusiasm has subsided. At times, Rien Intense Incense can come across like a basketball melting on hot tarmac. All that hoopla about extreme animalics and burning churches that you can read in some reviews appears to be purely interpretational. Some feel that this is a "modern take on Kouros" due to the aldehydic opening and I have to disagree. That sparkle in the beginning fades pretty quickly and for the remaining 10-12 hours, one is left with a dense and linear scent that is more reminiscent of hanging out at the hardware store (at the aisle with the insulation materials) while wearing 40 sprays of Knize Ten than of 80's powerhouses. Don't expect to get occasional wafts because RII remains present throughout its whole wearing time.

I mostly get dried urine stains on a toilet ring and sweat. Sure, there's a hint of ylang and incense but what dominates are the previously mentioned notes. My guess is the immortelle gives the urinous notes from the castoreum and the costus the "dry" texture and the cumin is providing the sweat. The fragrance quiets down a bit later on but the general vibe will remain the same. It's like walking into a public urinal that is somewhat well maintained. Neither squeaky clean, nor the disastrous type of public toilets that make you dry heave when you enter.


I'm really not averse to dirty perfumes but I don't understand the purpose of Ambilux. Urinous notes are nothing new in perfumery and when they're just a small piece of a larger puzzle, they can lend some of that special something to a fragrance. But this is so bare bones. As if they were saying "Here's your bottled pee, bro. Enjoy". But then again, some of you guys out there are nuts and there's obviously a market for it.

The scent of a woman's sweaty skin, wafts of saliva and even breath...not the halitotic kind but still, human breath unvarnished by chewing gum or mints. Past the opening credits of this film, the supposed floral elements are relegated to act as quiet supporting cast.

It's difficult to decide whether this is a sensual venusian experience or just the scent of your female co-worker, that you always felt indifferent about at best, breaking a bit too deeply into your personal space on a hot summer's day. In any case, fans of vintage style fragrances should not jump too quickly to make a blind purchase anticipating just another easy to like retro fragrance. This is a rather specific scent for rather specific occasions and requires sampling in advance. I am glad that I had the chance to make a new acquaintance but we are not meant for each other.

Also, Musc Tonkin smells primally feminine and would, to me, at least, seem out of place on a man, no matter how flamboyant or androgynous he might appear.