MutterShiki

I was a happy owner of this fragrance for some time. When I tried it for the first time, I was overwhelmed by the brightness and intensity of the tuberose - it really hits you hard. It is indeed an explosion: a distinctly bubblegum-like tuberose, very present and only slightly changing during wear. You can also sense green stem nuances and gardenia. The fragrance is hard to break down into individual notes - it feels very cohesive.

For me personally, however, this tuberose became too loud at some point; it started to "bore into my head." I can also recognize a certain similarity (or it might be my personal perfume quirk!) to Une Voix Noir by Serge Lutens. Despite the different fragrance pyramids, they share something in common, especially after the opening. However, I found the version by Serge Lutens to be softer, and so I ultimately chose it - I sold Fracas without regret.

The technical properties are excellent: enormous longevity and an impressive sillage. It's a pity that we didn't end up having a great love affair.

My God, this is love at first breath - like an electric shock.
These were the first fragrances of the Maestro that I bought in full size. Incredibly sharp, smelling of burnt wood, slightly sweet, with a breathtaking tobacco, a dense, melting cocoa butter accord, and a hint of rum in the background. I perceive every single note - and yet they all revolve around one: the wonderful wood smoke that gently envelops them.

For me, they are very oriental, spicy-sharp, and yet extremely wearable. Their time is frost and coolness. Definitely test before buying!
They remind me a bit of Side Effect, but they are less sweet, less rum-heavy, and sharper and smokier instead. Both are different, both are great - and both have their place.

I own both in my collection and wear them depending on my mood. "The Smoke Veil" creates incredible coziness, it constantly leaves a trail and provides enormous olfactory pleasure until the evening, slowly fading like a smoldering log. A special pleasure is also putting on a sweater the next day that carries this scent - it lingers for many days, with a delicious and luxurious afterglow.
When I spray these perfumes on my wrist, I can hardly stop smelling them - you want to bury your nose in it. The cocoa aroma gives a certain roughness, it envelops the nose from the inside, and it's just never enough.

These fragrances demand a certain mood - and they simultaneously create it themselves. A mood that is as difficult to describe as the scent itself, but definitely leans towards a positive, introverted direction.

This is my tribute to another masterpiece of the Maestro.

I have both versions in my collection - Velvet Orchid and Velvet Orchid Lumière.
I tested them in parallel, and in my opinion, the two fragrances are almost identical. Lumière feels a bit softer and more floral, but not so much that it would be worth seeking out specifically, as long as the regular version is readily available.
For me, however, both have little to do with Black Orchid, although I love that scent very much. They are noticeably sweeter, but by no means dark - full of ripe beauty and honey-sweet flowers, in stark contrast to their sweet-icy predecessor.

In my perception, these fragrances feel like violet, velvety gloves, color-coordinated with the bottle, in which one holds sweet, honey-drenched flowers.
Next to it, an opened bottle of rum sits on the table, and the hostess wears a dress that matches the gloves - as well as a beautiful velvety mask on her lovely face.

I have finally decided to write a review of Sarrasins.
This is one of those fragrances that makes you think with the first breath: “This is art.”
I love the perfumes of Serge Lutens, but this particular scent has taken a special place in my heart.
It is an intense jasmine - just like I remember it from my childhood: realistic, slightly indolic. It is precisely this indolic quality that makes it interesting and extraordinary.
I can clearly perceive the musk, which gives the fragrance depth, sensuality, and an almost animalistic note. It is truly a predatory flower that does not shy away from its nature.
I also sense a nuance that is not listed in the official fragrance pyramid - an ink note. To me, Sarrasins smells a bit like gel ink, and I love that! This subtle note adds an extra layer of depth and darkness to the fragrance.
The violet color fits it perfectly. And if jasmine flowers were a fruit, they would smell just like this.
Technically, the fragrance is excellent - extremely long-lasting and with strong sillage. However, it should be dosed carefully, as it can be overwhelming.
If A La Nuit is the sunny, cheerful jasmine - warm, bright, and open, then Sarrasins is its dark, nocturnal twin.
You want to wear it in the evening. It reminds you of hot, dark, velvety nights, where jasmine fills the air and you can't escape its intoxicating scent - it simply permeates everything.
For me, the fragrance hardly changes over time, but I have the impression that the musk becomes more prominent as time goes on - which I really like.
I never cease to admire the floral works of the maestro and am always amazed at how realistically he can capture the many facets of a flower.

Musk scents. Serge Lutens has several creations with musk, but today I want to talk about my favorite musk fragrance - Clair de Musc.
I have an amusing story connected to this perfume. A few years ago, I ordered some samples of Clair de Musc and was horrified to sell them just a week later - the scent struck me as extremely old-fashioned, “grandma-like,” as if it smelled of musty, old clothing. As a great lover of musk, I was disappointed. However, I did not forget the scent, and when a new opportunity arose later, I ordered 2 ml again.
The second impression was completely different. The fragrance unfolded like a soft musk cloud: long-lasting, with a fine sillage even with the slightest movement, very close to the skin in the best sense of the word, slightly sweet, with beautiful white flowers. I fell in love. Today, I am the happy owner of an almost full Palais-Royal bottle that I actively use.
In this musk, there is something incredibly warm and alluring - like the soft fur of a warm animal, like the gentle scent of a little kitten. Sometimes the fragrance slightly turns soapy, but it never becomes shrill or overly “clean.” The iris gives it a noble roughness and a delicate, nostalgic powdery touch that I find very charming.
It is not a loud fragrance - rather something intimate for the wearer themselves than for the outside world. You can hardly overdose it. Certainly, it is not for everyone, but if it suits you, you will be happy to lose yourself in this fluffy musk cloud. I imagine: If angels had a scent, they would smell just like this…