Collection Noire

Écrin de fumée Serge Lutens 2023

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8.1 / 10 239 Ratings

A popular perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men, released in 2023. The scent is spicy-sweet. The longevity is above-average. It is being marketed by Shiseido Group / Beauté Prestige International.
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Main accords

Spicy

Sweet

Smoky

Woody

Resinous

Fragrance Notes

Tobacco

Rum

Cocoa

Videos

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Ratings

Scent

8.1239 Ratings

Longevity

8.1208 Ratings

Sillage

7.6205 Ratings

Bottle

7.6175 Ratings

Value for money

7.4143 Ratings

Submitted by 3eins2, last update on 01/10/2025.

Interesting Facts

The fragrance is part of the "Collection Noire" collection.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to

Vanille Havane Eau de Parfum

Fève Gourmande

Side Effect

Paris La Havane

Burning Ben

Kokain Black Intense

Reviews

10 in-depth fragrance descriptions

08/11/2024

8
Pricing 4
Bottle 5
Sillage 8
Longevity 10
Scent

Delonwheels
37 Reviews

Delonwheels

Helpful Review 4

Maison Margiela Jazz Club Lies In Bed At Night Wishing It Was Ecrin de Fumee

This has a strong boozy, smoky opening. It’s ambery liquor, tobacco, and smoke. It’s quite sweet, too, but not insufferably so. The drydown is pretty linear but deliciously so. The chocolate note is what really makes this sing for me. Sometimes these “bourbon, tobacco, smoke, and wood” kinds of fragrances can be aggressively masculine but this has a sweetness that I think makes it pretty unisex.

This kind of fragrance is very much up my alley. I love sweet, ambery, vanillic, and smoky. I wish I had smelled this before I spent like 6 years with Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille as my signature scent because this is like that but 100x better and half the price. They're different fragrances but are still in the same category. This will be a FB purchase for me.

10/12/2023

Catsylvania
8 Reviews

Catsylvania

3

Rum infused chocolate in a cloud of smoke

The opening felt rather bizarre, a slightly dusty, chemical in a way, blow of sweet cocoa with a weirdly compressed smoke notes. Luckily for me, the rum in this diffused the overall composition and toned down the sweetness along with any other strange rough edges. The scent was a delight, a beautifully crafted smoky, just a little bit boozy chocolate resting on a quality woody base with a tinge of powderiness. Tobacco felt a too tamed and too subdued by the sweetness, and this note was one of the things that inspired me to try Ecrin de Fumee. Alas, I didn't find tobacco in the quantities desired. Or, perhaps, I should clarify, not with the edge I was hoping to see. Moderate silage and great longevity. You might want to reapply just once during the day, but this is only if you feel like going out and give a new spin to this scent. Overall, I enjoyed it thoroughly, but not for the reasons I hoped I would.

07/13/2024

Razvanyke
214 Reviews

Razvanyke

2

A good one for Shiseido

I am a big fan of Chergui and Ambre Sultan and when SL launched a new scent (in 2023) I was very thrilled to try it.

Now I got a sample and I must say that what Serge Lutens does well, it is a dark, bold and spicy scent .. which here we can enjoy in full. I do smell similarities with other scents, but overall it does smell natural and unique.

It is not very versatile, but you can be sure that nobody will smell the same on a 200km/miles radius.
I hope you enjoy the video as much as I did recording it, merci!

10/16/2023

9
Pricing 8
Sillage 9
Longevity 9.5
Scent

Omnipotato
145 Reviews

Omnipotato

3

A party among cannon-fire

“Quick, quick, the world is ending! Our very existence needs urgent tending.
Amid the roar of the cannons, the champagne flows. Corks in the air, could they be aflame?
Beneath the smokescreen, life is a decadent game.” - Serge Lutens

I love program music, and figurative art in general. The evocative power of Strauss' sunrise in Also Sprach Zarathustra or Beethoven's storm in his 6th symphony is unmatched for me. But I had never experienced something like that in fragrance until now.

Écrin de Fumée is a tone poem, telling a story through scent. And the program is the quote above. Representative of world-ending cannons being fired, the fragrance first opens with acrid, almost rubbery smoke. Slowly but surely, it blends with sweet tobacco, rum, and cocoa. While the world is ending, the elites are having a party. And they've created a literal smokescreen so they can play their decadent game.

The wordplay is clever too. Not being an expert in French, I will try to explain it as best I can. Écran de fumée means "smokescreen." And écrin means a jewelry case, or in the context of perfumery, a coffret such as the ones Kilian fragrances are advertised to come in. So while the literal translation is "smoke box" or "smoke coffret," it is a play on words with the similar sounding "écran de fumée."

As for the scent itself, for being so abstract and figurative, it is quite pleasant and wearable. Though there is a lot of smoke in there with the listed notes of tobacco, rum, and cacao. The cannon-fire is raging overhead, remember.

11/03/2024

7
Pricing 10
Bottle 6
Sillage 7
Longevity 8
Scent

Farbod
1 Review

Farbod

1

Gourmand-ish Tobacco

With an apparent SL signature, this fragrance is a novel take on warm tobacco scent.
To my nose and on my skin, it is more molten than smoky. Neither the impression of smelting ore nor molten chocolate cake can describe what I mean. Imagine something between them with a resinous sweetness and well-aged boozy nuances to comprehend me!

If you are into dark scents, and have rich experience with Serge Lutents creations, probably this one won't surprise you. But wearing a delicious tobacco scent without domination of vanilla and cherry, with lavish spiciness and well built woody bed which are rounded by a powdery touch, would be a pleasant experience.

Écrin defumée is an ode to a delicious tobacco for an audacious audience.

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