Collection Noire

Écrin de fumée 2023

Écrin de fumée by Serge Lutens
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8.0 / 10 164 Ratings
A new perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men, released in 2023. The scent is spicy-sweet. The longevity is above-average. It is being marketed by Shiseido Group / Beauté Prestige International.
Pronunciation
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Main accords

Spicy
Sweet
Smoky
Woody
Resinous

Fragrance Notes

TobaccoTobacco RumRum CocoaCocoa
Videos
Ratings
Scent
8.0164 Ratings
Longevity
8.1141 Ratings
Sillage
7.6140 Ratings
Bottle
7.8112 Ratings
Value for money
7.389 Ratings
Submitted by 3eins2, last update on 19.06.2024.
Interesting Facts
The fragrance is part of the "Collection Noire" collection.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
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Paris La Havane by Carven
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Clandestine Clara by Penhaligon's
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Mécanique Intuitive by Les Eaux Primordiales
Mécanique Intuitive

Reviews

4 in-depth fragrance descriptions
7
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
10
Scent
Scentwolf

2 Reviews
Translated Show original Show translation
Scentwolf
Scentwolf
Top Review 24  
No Ordinary Love
I want no ordinary lover. I want a fucking storm.
I want sleepless nights and endless conversations at 4 a.m.
I want passion. I want madness.

Your life is reorganizing. Previous things no longer work. Contacts dissolve, relationships end. Only what is real and true remains. It's frighteningly little. Maybe it's a good thing, maybe it's time to let go of the old so that the new can come. The time span in between hurts. Must hurt. Must be lived through, suffered through, endured. You will grow.

Écrin de fumée is warm cinnamon encouragement. The rum gives strength, tobacco leaves provide aroma. Subtle smokiness pushes unisex towards masculine elegance. The fact that Serge Lutens only lists three ingredients should be seen as an understatement. It cannot be meant seriously. This fragrance is too rich and too dense for that. Whatever else is in there, it blends in perfectly. Nothing is too quiet or too loud here. Nothing is missing, nothing is too much. All the notes follow an orchestration reminiscent of Nicolai. Masterful.

A maelstrom. Quicksand of emotions. It pulls you in. You don't want it any other way.
The varnish of your previous life shows cracks. You recognize yourself - you don't recognize yourself. Long-hidden things finally show themselves (again). Premonitions become certainty, fulfillment becomes a promise.

Which doors will open?
Pulse. Vibrancy. Pulse. New territory. Pulse. Relaxed turmoil. Pulse.
Mariana tomb deep trust...
Push the button!!!

"All woman" you had said.
I am ready!

For K.
29 Comments
9
Pricing
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Omnipotato

68 Reviews
Omnipotato
Omnipotato
1  
A party among cannon-fire
“Quick, quick, the world is ending! Our very existence needs urgent tending.
Amid the roar of the cannons, the champagne flows. Corks in the air, could they be aflame?
Beneath the smokescreen, life is a decadent game.” - Serge Lutens

I love program music, and figurative art in general. The evocative power of Strauss' sunrise in Also Sprach Zarathustra or Beethoven's storm in his 6th symphony is unmatched for me. But I had never experienced something like that in fragrance until now.

Écrin de Fumée is a tone poem, telling a story through scent. And the program is the quote above. Representative of world-ending cannons being fired, the fragrance first opens with acrid, almost rubbery smoke. Slowly but surely, it blends with sweet tobacco, rum, and cocoa. While the world is ending, the elites are having a party. And they've created a literal smokescreen so they can play their decadent game.

The wordplay is clever too. Not being an expert in French, I will try to explain it as best I can. Écran de fumée means "smokescreen." And écrin means a jewelry case, or in the context of perfumery, a coffret such as the ones Kilian fragrances are advertised to come in. So while the literal translation is "smoke box" or "smoke coffret," it is a play on words with the similar sounding "écran de fumée."

As for the scent itself, for being so abstract and figurative, it is quite pleasant and wearable. Though there is a lot of smoke in there with the listed notes of tobacco, rum, and cacao. The cannon-fire is raging overhead, remember.
0 Comments
Catsylvania

8 Reviews
Catsylvania
Catsylvania
3  
Rum infused chocolate in a cloud of smoke
The opening felt rather bizarre, a slightly dusty, chemical in a way, blow of sweet cocoa with a weirdly compressed smoke notes. Luckily for me, the rum in this diffused the overall composition and toned down the sweetness along with any other strange rough edges. The scent was a delight, a beautifully crafted smoky, just a little bit boozy chocolate resting on a quality woody base with a tinge of powderiness. Tobacco felt a too tamed and too subdued by the sweetness, and this note was one of the things that inspired me to try Ecrin de Fumee. Alas, I didn't find tobacco in the quantities desired. Or, perhaps, I should clarify, not with the edge I was hoping to see. Moderate silage and great longevity. You might want to reapply just once during the day, but this is only if you feel like going out and give a new spin to this scent. Overall, I enjoyed it thoroughly, but not for the reasons I hoped I would.
0 Comments
7
Pricing
7
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Fandaengo

8 Reviews
Translated Show original Show translation
Fandaengo
Fandaengo
Very helpful Review 8  
He put aside his dark robe and led me into the light
Thick walls, dark niches, seemingly endless corridors that, thanks to the delicate, playful candlelight, only hint at the massive labyrinth structure. It is cool, the wind sprays again and again from changing directions, almost gently and as if it wants to draw attention to dangers, a fine mist over my face and my bare feet. The ground seems uneven, granite blocks and short, soapy wooden planks seem to alternate randomly. One runs the risk of stumbling, being swept into the depths, or being seized by unreal tentacles on one's ankles. How long will I be on the road now - how does time define itself in this here and now?

From a distance I hear, first very hesitantly and then vehemently approaching, familiar scents of sweet, dark woods and some amber. My olfactory cells now also detect scents of beautiful tobacco and aged rum. My olfactory bulb is working flat out to encode this new, unexpected olfactory information. The number of molecules that can be smelled is steadily increasing. I have long since stopped to facilitate the signal processing in my head. And from the awakened memories and feelings, it now appeared in front of me, as if it had suddenly and completely silently fallen from the dark side into the delicate candlelight.

Pleasantly warming incense notes and very fine cocoa clouds wove around the dark, shadowy figure. He wore mask and dressed in a robe as powerful as not quite delimitable, which was created with much love and passion perhaps in the perfume workshops of the Orient. It defines itself and at the same time is dominated by this almost playful tobacco note, which is harmoniously complemented by the other woody fragrance notes. He seems perfectly matched, and gives one this ambrisch spicy feeling of security, which should not let me go from this moment and for the rest.

He has a deep, dark side, pulls me again and again his spell and conveys a flattering sovereignty and security. What a fragrance experience! Only after hours he let me go, put his dark robe aside and led me back into light.
1 Comment

Statements

5 short views on the fragrance
AndreiSmd93AndreiSmd93 1 year ago
10
Sillage
10
Longevity
10
Scent
The best release of the last years from Lutens. Sweet-boozy cocoa with tobacco, a bit smoky. The opening is delicious. Instant love!
1 Comment
IncensenutIncensenut 1 year ago
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
7
Scent
Derivative. They smell like a bunch of other fragrances that were popular about four years ago.
0 Comments
Vec2tVec2t 4 months ago
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
8
Scent
Very caramellic Rum; leans more like a Cognac. Rich, deep & heavy, strong and beautiful.
0 Comments
HolscentbarHolscentbar 5 months ago
8.5
Scent
absolutely amazing. Creamy, smoky but at the same time rough and spicy. Must have!
0 Comments
NicheOnlyNicheOnly 9 months ago
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
5
Scent
Poor blending - notable rubbery accord in the open (Blessed Baraka?). Otherwise, smells of chocolatey, warm spicy tobacco.
0 Comments

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Serge Lutens’ New Unisex Fragrance: An Ode to the Luxury and Excess of Life
French niche perfume brand Serge Lutens launches "Écrin de Fumée", a new sensual tobacco fragrance.

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