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Collection Noire

Écrin de fumée Serge Lutens 2023

8.1 / 10 345 Ratings

A popular perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men, released in 2023. The scent is spicy-smoky. The longevity is above-average. It is being marketed by Shiseido Group / Beauté Prestige International.
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Main accords

Spicy

Smoky

Sweet

Woody

Resinous

Fragrance Notes

Tobacco

Cocoa

Rum

Videos

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Ratings

Scent

8.1345 Ratings

Longevity

8.0292 Ratings

Sillage

7.6288 Ratings

Bottle

7.7247 Ratings

Value for money

7.6209 Ratings

Submitted by 3eins2 · last update on 12/22/2025.

Source-backed & verified

Interesting Facts

The fragrance is part of the Collection Noire collection.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to

Vanille Havane Eau de Parfum

Midnight Toker (2025)

Fève Gourmande

Side Effect

Clandestine Clara

Kokain Black Intense

Reviews

22 in-depth fragrance descriptions

08/11/2024

10Scent 8Longevity 5Sillage

Delonwheels
42 Reviews

Delonwheels

Helpful Review 7

Maison Margiela Jazz Club Lies In Bed At Night Wishing It Was Ecrin de Fumee

This has a strong boozy, smoky opening. It’s ambery liquor, tobacco, and smoke. It’s quite sweet, too, but not insufferably so. The drydown is pretty linear but deliciously so. The chocolate note is what really makes this sing for me. Sometimes these “bourbon, tobacco, smoke, and wood” kinds of fragrances can be aggressively masculine but this has a sweetness that I think makes it pretty unisex.

This kind of fragrance is very much up my alley. I love sweet, ambery, vanillic, and smoky. I wish I had smelled this before I spent like 6 years with Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille as my signature scent because this is like that but 100x better and half the price. They're different fragrances but are still in the same category. This will be a FB purchase for me.

04/15/2025

blindy
38 Reviews

blindy

3

Cognac & Chocolate

Serge Lutens always had a special place in my heart. It was the first niche brand I’ve heard about from my mom many-many years ago, my olfactory journey hasn’t even started back then. The brand appears to me as a staple when it comes to the term “niche perfumery”, the undying French classic.

To me it starts off with an unpleasant smell of pure alcohol but quickly settles down and turns into a cognac with dark chocolate. Tobacco here is not overshadowed by some vanilla or other sweet notes how it is usually done in a lot of tobacco perfumes.

A must try for people who love warm-boozy scents without additional “sweeteners” like vanilla or cinnamon and tonka beans. It is quite simple but well-crafted and would complement any formal occasion as it is not intrusive and doesn’t scream “look at me, I am here” from the other end of the street.

10/12/2023

Catsylvania
8 Reviews

Catsylvania

3

Rum infused chocolate in a cloud of smoke

The opening felt rather bizarre, a slightly dusty, chemical in a way, blow of sweet cocoa with a weirdly compressed smoke notes. Luckily for me, the rum in this diffused the overall composition and toned down the sweetness along with any other strange rough edges. The scent was a delight, a beautifully crafted smoky, just a little bit boozy chocolate resting on a quality woody base with a tinge of powderiness. Tobacco felt a too tamed and too subdued by the sweetness, and this note was one of the things that inspired me to try Ecrin de Fumee. Alas, I didn't find tobacco in the quantities desired. Or, perhaps, I should clarify, not with the edge I was hoping to see. Moderate silage and great longevity. You might want to reapply just once during the day, but this is only if you feel like going out and give a new spin to this scent. Overall, I enjoyed it thoroughly, but not for the reasons I hoped I would.

11/03/2024

8Scent 7Longevity 6Sillage

Farbod
1 Review

Farbod

2

Gourmand-ish Tobacco

With an apparent SL signature, this fragrance is a novel take on warm tobacco scent.
To my nose and on my skin, it is more molten than smoky. Neither the impression of smelting ore nor molten chocolate cake can describe what I mean. Imagine something between them with a resinous sweetness and well-aged boozy nuances to comprehend me!

If you are into dark scents, and have rich experience with Serge Lutents creations, probably this one won't surprise you. But wearing a delicious tobacco scent without domination of vanilla and cherry, with lavish spiciness and well built woody bed which are rounded by a powdery touch, would be a pleasant experience.

Écrin defumée is an ode to a delicious tobacco for an audacious audience.

07/13/2024

Razvanyke
215 Reviews

Razvanyke

2

A good one for Shiseido

I am a big fan of Chergui and Ambre Sultan and when SL launched a new scent (in 2023) I was very thrilled to try it.

Now I got a sample and I must say that what Serge Lutens does well, it is a dark, bold and spicy scent .. which here we can enjoy in full. I do smell similarities with other scents, but overall it does smell natural and unique.

It is not very versatile, but you can be sure that nobody will smell the same on a 200km/miles radius.
I hope you enjoy the video as much as I did recording it, merci!