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Mancera The Aoud vs Montale Black Aoud
Since I have samples of both, the perfume houses quasi belong together and the perfumes seem so already very related I compare these times, Montale on the left arm and Mancera on the right.
Opening:
Montale opens with a very medicinal - artificial oud - rose blend underpinned by patchouli. Positively I find the patchouli, for me not necessarily delicious but also not too "soapy", as it is usually the case. Goes rather into the oily-herbaceous. I find that neither the oud nor the rose smells natural here. The oud is neither warm, nor animalic, barn-yard like but is responsible for the medicinal note in my opinion. In addition, a breath of old, dry wood.
Mancera
The Mancera smells off the bat clearly more complex and less medicinal. Pepper and the oil of bergamot I smell out very pleasantly. The rose mixed with geranium and saffron seems a little sweeter than the Montale and combines well with the woods. Peppery-hot-woody so, I like it a bit better than the Montale so far whereas this one reminds me quite a bit of church. Goes something in the direction of Guerlain Santal Royal. In the Mancera is also no animalic, poopy Oud in it but one with Medizinischer note, very similarly as in the Montale I would say but more difficult to say because this is not so in the center by the woods
Montale I find at first a little louder than Mancera.
Dry-down:
The two perfumes approach each other significantly.
The Montale becomes significantly less medicinal, the rose goes somewhat into the background. Everything is somehow a little rounder and a little less synthetic. Seems a little greener. Even has a certain freshness and the patchouli fits well. And normally I don't like patchouli. Not bad at all.
Unfortunately, I have to say that the Montale has the nose in front from my point of view, because the Mancera is a bit musty here and loses spice. The pepper and a bitter fresh note remains. The composition somehow blurred. Too bad.
Opening:
Montale opens with a very medicinal - artificial oud - rose blend underpinned by patchouli. Positively I find the patchouli, for me not necessarily delicious but also not too "soapy", as it is usually the case. Goes rather into the oily-herbaceous. I find that neither the oud nor the rose smells natural here. The oud is neither warm, nor animalic, barn-yard like but is responsible for the medicinal note in my opinion. In addition, a breath of old, dry wood.
Mancera
The Mancera smells off the bat clearly more complex and less medicinal. Pepper and the oil of bergamot I smell out very pleasantly. The rose mixed with geranium and saffron seems a little sweeter than the Montale and combines well with the woods. Peppery-hot-woody so, I like it a bit better than the Montale so far whereas this one reminds me quite a bit of church. Goes something in the direction of Guerlain Santal Royal. In the Mancera is also no animalic, poopy Oud in it but one with Medizinischer note, very similarly as in the Montale I would say but more difficult to say because this is not so in the center by the woods
Montale I find at first a little louder than Mancera.
Dry-down:
The two perfumes approach each other significantly.
The Montale becomes significantly less medicinal, the rose goes somewhat into the background. Everything is somehow a little rounder and a little less synthetic. Seems a little greener. Even has a certain freshness and the patchouli fits well. And normally I don't like patchouli. Not bad at all.
Unfortunately, I have to say that the Montale has the nose in front from my point of view, because the Mancera is a bit musty here and loses spice. The pepper and a bitter fresh note remains. The composition somehow blurred. Too bad.
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Unique from common ingredients
I purchased the fragrance with Deep in a Dream and Niwa locally in Belgium and had a relatively long chat with the perfumer Romain Pantoustier. He said that he would not use any artificial ingredients except those of animal origin, although some of them are still available (in their natural form). And I believe him 100%, because all his fragrances are almost photorealistic, as if you had all the ingredients in front of you. Even after an hour of smelling, I didn't feel the hint of a headache here, where in the normal perfumery I always have to stop after 20-30 minutes. In addition, he revealed to me that the fragrance oil concentration is around 28%, with which his perfumes have "Extrait de Parfum" or "Parfum" - concentration
Earl Grey really smells like a great Earl Grey tea like you get in tea shops, without tea listed in the ingredients. The shelf life is very good for a fragrance of this type. All of the ingredients are individually very recognizable. Basically a relatively simple and extremely pleasing fragrance, which is nevertheless deeper than the title suggests. A safe-bet, with which one warscheinlich with nobody aneckt. Here, everything is simply round.
I personally have lived in Japan and visited the country countless times. Romain was also often in Japan and apparently draws much inspiration from his experiences there. This is already easy to see in the logo - just search for "Zen". I think that not only his creation "Niwa" (Japanese: garden), but also this very fragrance was inspired by Japan - at least that is my personal impression. In Japan you don't really wear fragrances (at least during the day) because you don't want to attract negative attention. I am with but sure that one would come through with this fragrance but still because this simply does not smell like "perfume" in the sense of Davidoff Cool Water, etc., but simply acts like a composition of natural ingredients.
The fragrance is basically very simple, but so perfectly tuned that this fragrance has absolutely a right to exist and may also like to appear more often. So in the form of an absolute unicum from ingredients which everyone has already smelled once.
TLDR: Super natural, acts at first smell extremely simple, but is relatively deep. The beauty is in the details. Photorealistic Scent. Citrus very aromatic and somewhat sweet, rose very gentle. Like a tea which is pulled at exactly the right temperature and is pulled to the second. In addition, really very good durability
Earl Grey really smells like a great Earl Grey tea like you get in tea shops, without tea listed in the ingredients. The shelf life is very good for a fragrance of this type. All of the ingredients are individually very recognizable. Basically a relatively simple and extremely pleasing fragrance, which is nevertheless deeper than the title suggests. A safe-bet, with which one warscheinlich with nobody aneckt. Here, everything is simply round.
I personally have lived in Japan and visited the country countless times. Romain was also often in Japan and apparently draws much inspiration from his experiences there. This is already easy to see in the logo - just search for "Zen". I think that not only his creation "Niwa" (Japanese: garden), but also this very fragrance was inspired by Japan - at least that is my personal impression. In Japan you don't really wear fragrances (at least during the day) because you don't want to attract negative attention. I am with but sure that one would come through with this fragrance but still because this simply does not smell like "perfume" in the sense of Davidoff Cool Water, etc., but simply acts like a composition of natural ingredients.
The fragrance is basically very simple, but so perfectly tuned that this fragrance has absolutely a right to exist and may also like to appear more often. So in the form of an absolute unicum from ingredients which everyone has already smelled once.
TLDR: Super natural, acts at first smell extremely simple, but is relatively deep. The beauty is in the details. Photorealistic Scent. Citrus very aromatic and somewhat sweet, rose very gentle. Like a tea which is pulled at exactly the right temperature and is pulled to the second. In addition, really very good durability
