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Silky Gunpowder
A truly intriguing scent! It opens with a distinct yet impressionistic note of gunpowder (smoky, ashy, and metallic) which almost immediately sets Rendez-vous! apart from most other iris fragrances. It feels like Antoine Lie’s managed to blend powdery orris butter and ashy/heavily textural aldehydes in such a way that it creates an olfactory impression of smoke that's cold, metallic, silky, "silvery", yet soft powdery makeupy and at the same time botanical.
The ionone/irone facets anchor this as a 100% iris scent, yet it remains very unconventional and artistic. Trying to be as descriptive as possible, this smells like a combination of Panthea Iris (but sharper, less fruity, and far more austere), Dior Homme Intense (the amberwoods and the slight, make-upy suede) and the scent of unburned matches. As a concept, it reminds me of Naomi Goodsir's modern style a bit, but it's definitely different from Iris Cendre's strong suede character.
It definitely feels cinematic, perhaps like a 1970s noir film about modern vampires (or maybe I've just read too much vampire fiction lately). It’s fascinating, sensual and cold.
However, the drydown is far more easily comprehensible as it develops warmer and sweet amberwoody nuances around the whole orris theme become more prominent. Aka, it goes closer to DHI's realm (or, as others have noted, maybe it's closer to Belle Âme, but without the ginger soap overload), while still doing it's own thing on the side.
Overall, I think it's thought-provoking, unique yet manages to be wearable (tho not sure how much I'ld wear this myself?). A great piece of perfumery right there. And, in today's world where perfume price tags seem to mean nothing, it's "logically rated" at 150€ for a 50ml.
The ionone/irone facets anchor this as a 100% iris scent, yet it remains very unconventional and artistic. Trying to be as descriptive as possible, this smells like a combination of Panthea Iris (but sharper, less fruity, and far more austere), Dior Homme Intense (the amberwoods and the slight, make-upy suede) and the scent of unburned matches. As a concept, it reminds me of Naomi Goodsir's modern style a bit, but it's definitely different from Iris Cendre's strong suede character.
It definitely feels cinematic, perhaps like a 1970s noir film about modern vampires (or maybe I've just read too much vampire fiction lately). It’s fascinating, sensual and cold.
However, the drydown is far more easily comprehensible as it develops warmer and sweet amberwoody nuances around the whole orris theme become more prominent. Aka, it goes closer to DHI's realm (or, as others have noted, maybe it's closer to Belle Âme, but without the ginger soap overload), while still doing it's own thing on the side.
Overall, I think it's thought-provoking, unique yet manages to be wearable (tho not sure how much I'ld wear this myself?). A great piece of perfumery right there. And, in today's world where perfume price tags seem to mean nothing, it's "logically rated" at 150€ for a 50ml.
Saffron, Vanilla and... Redundancy
Sigh, okay so it seems Atelier Materi has hopped onto the increasingly saturated "extrait/parfum/absolu" bandwagon, releasing a pricier trio of extracts. Among these is Ambre Papier, a scent that can best be described as rubbery sweet saffron dunked in sticky myrrh, spicy vanilla, and some dusty cookie dough. It wore consistently for about six hours, drying down to a slightly boozy edge, but the scent profile hardly evolved beyind that. On fabric, however, it overstayed its welcome, turning into a sickly sweet, bandaid-rubber thing that made me change clothes to escape it...
There’s a distinct resemblance to the whole rubbery vanilla DNA that seems to got popularized post YSL's Babycat by Dominique Ropion. Ambre Papier feels like it isolates Babycat’s leathery saffron and dials it up. Yet, it definitely doesn’t achieve the full-bodied, mouthwatering vanillic decadence of Ropion's works in Babycat, Vanagloria and obviously nor Vanilla Barka. That said, as someone who’s a sucker for warm, resinous, rubbery and leathery vanilla profiles (no matter how overdone), I still found Ambre Papier pleasant...just not pleasant enough.
The problem lies in its redundancy. With the countless other iterations of this vanilla-saffron-resins formula already dominating collections, Ambre Papier feels like an echo. Even compared to Lune Feline, Oud Save the King, or Penhaligon’s various recent vanillas, it comes up short and, dare I say, boring.
Worse still, this release - alongside Neroli Hasbaya - feels like a calculated move to chase trends rather than break new ground. It’s as if Atelier Materi compiled a checklist of “what’s hot right now” and churned out scents to cash in. While not blatant clones, they kinda lack the originality and soul that would justify their elevated price point in my opinion. If my suspicion is correct, this strategy marks a disappointing turn for the house.
There’s a distinct resemblance to the whole rubbery vanilla DNA that seems to got popularized post YSL's Babycat by Dominique Ropion. Ambre Papier feels like it isolates Babycat’s leathery saffron and dials it up. Yet, it definitely doesn’t achieve the full-bodied, mouthwatering vanillic decadence of Ropion's works in Babycat, Vanagloria and obviously nor Vanilla Barka. That said, as someone who’s a sucker for warm, resinous, rubbery and leathery vanilla profiles (no matter how overdone), I still found Ambre Papier pleasant...just not pleasant enough.
The problem lies in its redundancy. With the countless other iterations of this vanilla-saffron-resins formula already dominating collections, Ambre Papier feels like an echo. Even compared to Lune Feline, Oud Save the King, or Penhaligon’s various recent vanillas, it comes up short and, dare I say, boring.
Worse still, this release - alongside Neroli Hasbaya - feels like a calculated move to chase trends rather than break new ground. It’s as if Atelier Materi compiled a checklist of “what’s hot right now” and churned out scents to cash in. While not blatant clones, they kinda lack the originality and soul that would justify their elevated price point in my opinion. If my suspicion is correct, this strategy marks a disappointing turn for the house.
Sharp Start, Soft Finish
A bit of a rollercoaster this one tbh. It opens with an intense, almost abrasive neroli note that comes off sharp, green, slightly bitter, and oddly plasticky. The first few minutes were so overpowering I had to turn on a fan just to keep my nose from being overwhelmed. Not the most graceful of starts and I can see why many people would be put off by it.
But then, thankfully, it transforms. As it settles, the fragrance begins to resemble Slowdive, with that familiar sweet, honeyed, spicy, resinous texture surrounding white florals. It softens considerably, shedding its earlier weirdness to become something more wearable and inviting. So, it's definitely very Hiram Green-esque, as others have noted.
Fast forward 14 hours, and it’s still clinging to my skin, now as a delicate, powdery, soapy orange blossom scent. At this stage, it’s genuinely enjoyable, gentle and comforting
Overall, it’s a confusing ride but the drydown is very nice. Definitely a better experience than Neroli Hasbaya tho (which is another neroli that I sampled along with Tryst), that’s for sure.
But then, thankfully, it transforms. As it settles, the fragrance begins to resemble Slowdive, with that familiar sweet, honeyed, spicy, resinous texture surrounding white florals. It softens considerably, shedding its earlier weirdness to become something more wearable and inviting. So, it's definitely very Hiram Green-esque, as others have noted.
Fast forward 14 hours, and it’s still clinging to my skin, now as a delicate, powdery, soapy orange blossom scent. At this stage, it’s genuinely enjoyable, gentle and comforting
Overall, it’s a confusing ride but the drydown is very nice. Definitely a better experience than Neroli Hasbaya tho (which is another neroli that I sampled along with Tryst), that’s for sure.
Filtrum
Quite lovely this one. It's a cozy, sweet, and cinnamon-like/spicy, resinous blend that revolves around a strong, starchy, powdery carnation, laced with creamy vanilla, suede, and cloves. It's relatively simple, but it has lasting power for sure - at least on me.
The carnation here is rich and full-bodied, and I found it reminiscent of Roos & Roos' White Ballad and Caron’s Tabac Blond, rather than the soapy variety found in Serge Lutens’ Vitriol d’Oeillet.
As it dries down, it does lose a bit of its complexity and edges into a sweeter, somewhat flatter territory, which is common for most of Hiram Green's creations, but it still feels satisfying and wearable. It also became a tad bit more aggressive, in the way how natural carnation absolute can sometimes be.
I’m not completely enamored with it, but it is definitely one I’d wear. I also like the name a lot.
The carnation here is rich and full-bodied, and I found it reminiscent of Roos & Roos' White Ballad and Caron’s Tabac Blond, rather than the soapy variety found in Serge Lutens’ Vitriol d’Oeillet.
As it dries down, it does lose a bit of its complexity and edges into a sweeter, somewhat flatter territory, which is common for most of Hiram Green's creations, but it still feels satisfying and wearable. It also became a tad bit more aggressive, in the way how natural carnation absolute can sometimes be.
I’m not completely enamored with it, but it is definitely one I’d wear. I also like the name a lot.
A soft animalic
2024 might just be the year of the horse, given the surge of equestrian-themed fragrances lately...
Enter Epona by Papillon Artisan Perfumes, a scent that rides between Salome of the same house, Tabac Tabou by Parfum d'Empire, and a high-end violet soap bar (think Santa Maria Novella’s soapy creations). While it nods to these inspirations, Epona ultimately does it's own thing imo.
It softens Salome's intense animalic punch, blending it with a leathery, slightly earthy narcissus. This is all rounded off with a soapy smoothness that feels fluffy and refined. It manages to take the parts I liked the most of its predecessors and wraps them in an ethereal bubble of softness, making the whole scent far more wearable than you’d expect.
That being said, Epona does share a similar challenge with Salome and Tabac Tabou: it smells a bit like the potpourri jar of a crystal ball shop, albeit in a more subdued, elegant way.
It didn't change much in the drydown.
Lastly, I think it's worth noting that, unlike some other Papillon scents, this one didn’t irritate my skin or leave me with itchy, warm red patches.
Overall, Epona is a soft, velvety, mature/sophisticated, and soapy animalic scent. Pleasant but prhaps a little on the repetitive side due to its similarity to other scents, but undeniably well-crafted. Personally, I don't think I'ld reach for it much, but others might.
Enter Epona by Papillon Artisan Perfumes, a scent that rides between Salome of the same house, Tabac Tabou by Parfum d'Empire, and a high-end violet soap bar (think Santa Maria Novella’s soapy creations). While it nods to these inspirations, Epona ultimately does it's own thing imo.
It softens Salome's intense animalic punch, blending it with a leathery, slightly earthy narcissus. This is all rounded off with a soapy smoothness that feels fluffy and refined. It manages to take the parts I liked the most of its predecessors and wraps them in an ethereal bubble of softness, making the whole scent far more wearable than you’d expect.
That being said, Epona does share a similar challenge with Salome and Tabac Tabou: it smells a bit like the potpourri jar of a crystal ball shop, albeit in a more subdued, elegant way.
It didn't change much in the drydown.
Lastly, I think it's worth noting that, unlike some other Papillon scents, this one didn’t irritate my skin or leave me with itchy, warm red patches.
Overall, Epona is a soft, velvety, mature/sophisticated, and soapy animalic scent. Pleasant but prhaps a little on the repetitive side due to its similarity to other scents, but undeniably well-crafted. Personally, I don't think I'ld reach for it much, but others might.
