Ninahagen

It is helpful to mention here what age/batch the comments refer to regarding VDNuit.
VDN has been very good (I had an extrait from the '80s-90s) but also terrible, really, really bad (the last 10 years). From such a batch code, I smelled and concluded that there is NOTHING to smell, really zero.
Guerlain has also undergone its reforms and economic changes in recent years, and some fragrances have been duplicated (and also improved again). It completely depends on the year, and one should be cautious and test multiple times.

Blind purchase, after I had read a lot of good things, and already familiar with the general (possibly chemical tolerance) of Muschio (absolutely not bad) and Hamam (quite flat but not irritating/chemical), I took the risk, with only one fear: that it would remind me for a second of HPoison (unbearable) and what about 'ROSE'? (difficult note). But it doesn't, no rose, or HP. Not too sweet (A.Muse's sweeter). The cacao note lasts the whole time and is similar to Aquolina's X-moothie-Cioccolato e Vaniglia (already) Labdanum is fully present (a favorite note and the reason for the purchase). Has all the bad buys, regardless of price, been a waste... This one is not.

Heavily overrated, just like its quality and its 'historical significance'. My mother used it in the 70s, only for going to church or work, she says, to save her 'real' ones (Dior, YSL)
Too old-fashioned (grandmother wore it) and 'cheaply' priced, sometimes gifted to her (like Tabu and Maja), never bought herself because 'little water'.
I have inherited her old EDC and Extrait, and I completely share her opinion.

J. Carles has only created one masterpiece, the eternal best animal-floral-chypre, and my top favorite along with Diorella, namely Shocking.

Not a green chypre, otherwise typically (white) floral-soap-pure, in the style of White Linen (much better) is too sweet and sticky for me. Absolutely no animal base (only a drop of white musk), too floral and mediocre.

Cabochard: rightly a trendsetter.

MaGriffe: only today poured with superlatives, the fate of all old chypres, just for those playing in the second class back then.

Many apologies to the fans for my negativity... (and poor German)

Not as naive as it might appear at first spray.... 'semi-gourmand' with unexpected depth and endless longevity. An underrated little wonder of BLENDING and.... yes, a true CHYPRE.
I explain to myself (only) a little better how far I manage (German is not my native language,): and just for a comparison: I am a Nobile1942 fan (favorites: Vespri Aromatici, Anonimo Veneziano, Fougere, Choco III-Noir, and Patchouli) but their similar semi-gourmands like Danza-Libellule and Cafe Chantant are really MILES away from this Belle Helene, and lack DEPTH, DEVELOPMENT, and BLENDING, and are absolutely no 'chypres' for me. This Helena is.

Tip 1:
Buy it only on MDCI's website! Very friendly service: all questions are answered, free samples, and a big discount for the bottle when you first buy a sample pack. Still not as expensive as in other shops....

Tip 2:
After 8-10 hours when the iris-pear might sometimes get a bit out of tune, I do the following: spray once in the same spot(s) with TBShop-ShimmerMist-GreenApple (=the only one of that range worth buying just alone for layering, and a very good apple) and guess what?? .... The whole full pear-iris note is back.... Try it once and then believe me, a wonder, BHelene is infinite and not a naive simple composition at all.