Ostara
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Ostara
Another Beautiful Iris Worthy of Your Attention from Bourdon
To my nose, Ferre Eau de Parfum (2005) smells significantly different than the Ferre by Ferre (1991) perfume that comes in the bomb shaped bottle (there are separate entries in the database for each). I am not sure what the connection is, whether this is a renamed relaunch in a new bottle, a reformulation or of its just meant to be a different but thematically similar perfume.
The main difference between the two is that Ferre Eau de Parfum has a distinct fruity component that is not present in the 1991 bomb bottle. The fruity component adds a freshness and wetness to the 2005 version that I think enhances the iris note and takes it in a different direction. Both are warm toned, aldehydic iris with clean musky woody bases, though I find the 1991 version darker, more vanillic and more finely calibrated for my preferences.
The 1991 version is much closer to Frederic Malle's Iris Poudre than this version. Neither version of Ferre are in the styles of other titans of modern iris perfumes such as Serge Luten's Iris Silver Mist, Masque Milano L'Attesa, Xerjoff Irisss, or Chanel 28 La Pausa EDT.
The main difference between the two is that Ferre Eau de Parfum has a distinct fruity component that is not present in the 1991 bomb bottle. The fruity component adds a freshness and wetness to the 2005 version that I think enhances the iris note and takes it in a different direction. Both are warm toned, aldehydic iris with clean musky woody bases, though I find the 1991 version darker, more vanillic and more finely calibrated for my preferences.
The 1991 version is much closer to Frederic Malle's Iris Poudre than this version. Neither version of Ferre are in the styles of other titans of modern iris perfumes such as Serge Luten's Iris Silver Mist, Masque Milano L'Attesa, Xerjoff Irisss, or Chanel 28 La Pausa EDT.
The Smell of Forgotten Minor Indulgences
Vanille is a strange one and I admit I'm struggling to see what this has to do with vanilla. Most of what I get is an intense, burning clove note on a boozy background with slight animalic accents. The woody-leathery base smells dark with a polished bitter bite.
Smelling this reminded me of a childhood memory of being in a bowling alley. My friend's mother smoked clove cigarettes and the hot, smokey, spicy smell of them melded with the smell of the bowling alley itself: ashtrays, spilled booze, polished wood, creeping decay and the occasional whiff of human sweat.
Not my favorite, but Vanille is strangely noir and intriguing in a Bukowski-esque way. Its like the smell of forgotten minor indulgences.
Smelling this reminded me of a childhood memory of being in a bowling alley. My friend's mother smoked clove cigarettes and the hot, smokey, spicy smell of them melded with the smell of the bowling alley itself: ashtrays, spilled booze, polished wood, creeping decay and the occasional whiff of human sweat.
Not my favorite, but Vanille is strangely noir and intriguing in a Bukowski-esque way. Its like the smell of forgotten minor indulgences.
Warm Powdered Skin
I had been searching for my perfect powdery scent for a long time when in 2011 I finally found it in Chanel No 19 Poudre. I could never pull off the original Chanel No 19 with all it's hissing cold and hauntingly beautiful austerity, but Poudre is a different story entirely. All the notes I had problems with in the original are smoothed out or missing from Poudre: the aldehydes are turned way down, the iris is NOT coldly metallic and there is no leather accord.
The opening of Poudre is still a blast of aldehydes, galbanum and vetiver but much, much less sharp than the original. The rest of the wear time is filled out by a creamy, powdery iris musk. Despite the oft made comparisons, I don't find it similar to Prada's Infusion d'Iris (which on me is woody-iris-incense). The tonka provides a nuanced, light sweetness that adds warmth and depth which keeps No 19 Poudre from the icy character of the original. The blend of musks and sandalwood keep this mellow and inviting, and the galbanum-iris-vetiver inform but don't overwhelm the cozy character.
No19 Poudre is actually a comfort scent for me. It calls to mind a strong scent memory of being a young child, fresh out of the bath and applying my mother's perfumed talcum powder to my warm, flushed skin. For me, this is a cozy, warm, wholly innocent scent reminiscent of being wrapped in clean fluffy towels.
The overwhelming impression on my skin is clean, green, minimalist and understatedly elegant. A new modern classic. Absolutely lovely, an excellent makeup scent, and one of my true loves from the house of Chanel.
The opening of Poudre is still a blast of aldehydes, galbanum and vetiver but much, much less sharp than the original. The rest of the wear time is filled out by a creamy, powdery iris musk. Despite the oft made comparisons, I don't find it similar to Prada's Infusion d'Iris (which on me is woody-iris-incense). The tonka provides a nuanced, light sweetness that adds warmth and depth which keeps No 19 Poudre from the icy character of the original. The blend of musks and sandalwood keep this mellow and inviting, and the galbanum-iris-vetiver inform but don't overwhelm the cozy character.
No19 Poudre is actually a comfort scent for me. It calls to mind a strong scent memory of being a young child, fresh out of the bath and applying my mother's perfumed talcum powder to my warm, flushed skin. For me, this is a cozy, warm, wholly innocent scent reminiscent of being wrapped in clean fluffy towels.
The overwhelming impression on my skin is clean, green, minimalist and understatedly elegant. A new modern classic. Absolutely lovely, an excellent makeup scent, and one of my true loves from the house of Chanel.
Floral Animalic Bombshell
Ubar is an animalic bombshell fragrance. Positively swoon worthy. Actually this wears fairly linearly on me, its mostly civet, ambergris, jasmine, ylang ylang and sandalwood from beginning to end. But oh, what a stunning accord this creates! Rich, floral, vintage and smooth with an overtly sensual vibe, though at times I also catch a whiff of what smells like a plush nag champa note to me. I agree with those who have said Ubar will lend the wear an aura of mystery.
As I wear Ubar, I notice that it bares a striking resemblance to Samsara. No this is not a dupe, but it is clearly of the same family---built off the same core of jasmine, ylang ylang and sandalwood. If you like one you are rather likely to like the other, though Samsara has a large dose of vanilla in the drydown and Ubar has way more animalic notes going on.
Actually the more I think about it Ubar is the half way point between Jean Patou's symphonic animalic floral, Joy, and Guerlain's Samsara.
This is a powerhouse, even dabbing a small amount produces a huge cloud of scent and sillage. Do not overspray. Less is more with this one. Prepare to turn heads.
As I wear Ubar, I notice that it bares a striking resemblance to Samsara. No this is not a dupe, but it is clearly of the same family---built off the same core of jasmine, ylang ylang and sandalwood. If you like one you are rather likely to like the other, though Samsara has a large dose of vanilla in the drydown and Ubar has way more animalic notes going on.
Actually the more I think about it Ubar is the half way point between Jean Patou's symphonic animalic floral, Joy, and Guerlain's Samsara.
This is a powerhouse, even dabbing a small amount produces a huge cloud of scent and sillage. Do not overspray. Less is more with this one. Prepare to turn heads.
Fruity Ozonic Musk
L'Imperatrice is a whimsical, tart-fruity aquatic scent. Its like if shampoo met watermelon flavored Bubbleyum chewing gum and a dryer sheet. This is a yummy fruity musk with an ozonic edge that smells radiantly clean and synthetic in a pleasant way. Sure it's not groundbreaking but it is fun and it does smell good. If this is your style, I say rock it!
