Parma

With this Flanker to the more well-known, in my eyes somewhat underestimated, "Sander for Men" naturally the comparison to the six years earlier appeared smell forces itself on. (What were those times, when there was only one Flanker to a fragrance :))

For me, the original is the epitome of straight, male-spicy freshness. Those who know the fragrance with its typical autumnal clarity will know how it smells. There is hardly any difference, even if the note indication suggests something else.

The fragrance starts with the most striking difference, a very fresh, non pungent but slightly synthetic grapefruit note. It remains stable over the entire course, but quickly subordinates itself to the following fresh, ethereal spiciness. The grapefruit has a fresh fruity citricity - which becomes softer over time - and a subtle wateriness that fits perfectly into the summer

The spiciness is exactly the same as in the original fragrance, but the absence of the complex and deep cardamom spiciness is already noticeable in the precise smell. This makes the flanker look a bit simpler knitted. The somewhat subordinate clear, light, dry wood tone is also the same as in the original.

This is where the development of the summer version comes to an end, while the original is given a slight softness and indicated sweetness by the labdanum and tobacco. This makes it look a little deeper and gives off a touch more class. The smoothing, which experiences the quite strict spiciness with it, happens automatically in the Flanker by the slow fading of the smell.

The only points that bother me about both fragrances are, on the one hand, the slight synthetic effect, which tends towards the shower gel character, and, on the other hand, the cool and somewhat distanced aura. Both, however, also cause the initially really nice feeling of getting fresh out of the shower. The synthetic fabric is not a scratchy, shell-like or stabbing object, but only the permanent contact with it regularly gets on my nerves after one to two hours. But I'm also very sensitive about that. The slight unapproachability of the fragrance - as with some Sanders - which I also felt and achieved through this is also a personal matter of taste. In such a case I need at least always a friendly, appeasing counterpart, which brings in a light softness.

The shelf life of the fragrance is ok, as it is easily perceptible for about 4-5 hours. The Sillage is moderate.

All in all, Summer Cologne is an uncomplicated, unobtrusive, pleasant fragrance that can be used universally, especially in spring and summer. It is a nuance fresher and more "superficial" than the original and tuned by the grapefruit to summer. I like both scents equally well. With the exception of the top note, there is hardly any difference in the radiation. Both are good designer goods. So if you are satisfied with the original, you do not need this Flanker. Therefore, it can be easily misunderstood that this is a limited version and meanwhile an absolute rarity, which is very difficult to obtain.

I have a preference for quiet fragrances (when I wear them myself). And for fresh and handcrafted. That's why I like this one.

I also have a heart for outsiders and this one is certainly one. His relatively low level of fame is probably not related to the independent fragrance, because in principle he has the character of a classic men's cologna with a lot of citrus, a slightly spicy soapiness, and woodiness in the background. In principle, because this is a Japanese edition, which has a slightly exotic effect due to the Yuzu fruit and has Japanese restraint. Sillage is not present and on my skin it is only audibly perceptible for about an hour. At the latest after three hours you have to replenish your batteries. That's a bit tragic and will certainly limit the potential buyer group.

It begins with a combination of very bitter, herbaceous lemon verbena, the translucent, slightly exotic citrus note of the yuzu and a restrained use of basil, which contributes a light spiciness that, in combination with the tart citrus, develops a perceptible soapiness and lends the fragrance a discreetly classic masculine orientation. The exotic citric quickly becomes rounder and more fruity (fruity notes in Fragrantica are clearly indicated) and additionally somewhat sweetened by the fig. The sweet mastic resin (indicated on basenotes) may also contribute to this. This makes it appear a nuance denser and you can get the impression of coconut. Overall, however, it remains light and permeable. The woods indicated in the base - actually only the soft sandalwood - appear hyperdecent, so that the citric-fruity main impression is held through completely. The yuzu fruit always sets the tone before the fruit notes. On Fragrantica there are some general spices listed for the base, but from my point of view they are not perceptible.

All in all, I would describe the character as exotic citrus-fruity with a slightly soapy touch, which gives a casual impression, but with a nonchalant elegance similar to that of an "Eau Sauvage". However, the Dior is brighter and more lively, "Yuzu Man" rather the grey mouse. Both have in common that they seem timeless. In my eyes, the wild water tends slightly towards the retro, while the caron neither has this tendency nor is modernly oriented.

In comparison to a current Yuzu fragrance, the "Note de Yuzu", "Yuzu Man" also seems quite dull. It bears much more resemblance to the probably best-known Yuzu fragrance, "L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme". He shares the top note with this one. After that the caron is much more sweet and fruity and has this slightly soapy touch, while the Issey Miyake remains harsher and fresher in the course and comes across a bit more synthetic, while the "Yuzu Man" is very natural. They are by no means twin fragrances as indicated here.

On the Caron I like the unagitated composition next to its restraint and naturalness. Caron's house perfumer Richard Fraysse allegedly worked on it for several years. The fragrance adapts effortlessly to the skin and I don't feel like I'm perfumed

For me a really beautiful (summer) fragrance for unfortunately only very short self-enjoyment without any showmanship and in the truest sense of the word "balanced" (L'Équilibre, see below).

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Pure, clean flower freshness. Slightly creamy soap, minimal green and wonderfully fresh. The prototype of a fragrance that you associate with sweet innocence. But with staying power, proper projection and sillage. And thank God never overflowing.

Lily of the valley and freesia play the leading roles in this linear perfume.

Perfect in spring. Really optimistic.

The modern variant of the "Lily of the Valley" from Penhaligon's, which looks more classic and somewhat more complex due to its green moss base.

Far away from any synthetic impression that the brand often has to struggle with. The price, however, as with all bonds, is not comprehensible.

For lily of the valley lovers (like me).

Q... how did this happen?!!! I never thought I would... But I'm in love :) In the lime blossom.

This fragrance has converted me and such an effect on me that I would give all my fragrances for this.

Yet it is only a very gentle, dimmed, almost fleeting green breath, which I absolutely want to capture.

It is like a feeling of spring, a tingling sensation in your stomach full of excited anticipation, like the hope that everything will be all right and that all worries will vanish.

I am transferred to nature, on a day between spring and summer, and I smell the green leaves of the trees and the lime blossoms. Not honeyed, but clean, slightly flowery and penetratingly fresh. It is like breaking a lime branch and tasting the blossom and the juice of the branch.

I hardly take fruity nuances, only at the beginning the slightly waxy, bitter taste of the Neroli and in the course a very discreet, barely perceptible, herbaceous note. These ingredients form the link with the original fragrance "Eau d'Orange Verte". A light wood tone is added to the base, which combines wonderfully with the others to create a very natural, relaxed, green natural tone.

Therefore it is especially suitable for leisure time, but also for all other occasions, as it will not disturb anyone. Ideal in spring and summer.

And it's refreshing! Like a sudden blast of air that blows through you once and leaves you happy and smiling.

Sweet by no means, as the name - sweet orange water - suggests.

On my skin I perceive it for about 5 hours, whereby it is very close from the beginning.

I don't know who created this fragrance, maybe already Jean-Claude Ellena, who joined Hermes at that time - there's nothing about it on the internet - but he should urgently get another order to revive this fragrance!

I am in love... and have surrendered :)

Imagine you applied a powdery-sweet heliotrope patchouli fragrance the day before, which carried you through the day. The next morning you wake up with his slightly smudged and muffled veil, mixed with your sleep scent. You can imagine him like that.

Just like its male counterpart, this fragrance also captivates with its very own, intimate skin tone, which at the same time has something protective, calming and adult seductive. The perfume is stimulating and pacifying, elegant and down-to-earth, fresh and deep, gentle and concise, well-groomed and covered with the sleeping scent of the previous night.

The fragrance starts with a floral tangy lavender that combines with the slightly bitter spiciness of rosemary to create a strikingly spicy freshness that blends perfectly with the present, tart patchoulitone and represents a beautiful contrast to the subsequent development. Then, accompanied by the airy and restrained sweetness of candy floss, this typical, charismatically intimate skin tone unfolds, from which I still do not know exactly which combination of ingredients it evokes and which sets it apart from other powdery-sweet scents. Heliotrope in combination with lavender with safety. The white-flowered herbs also convey freshness, cleanliness and a certain sweetness which, however, do not let the scent tend towards harmless. This is ensured by the patchouli, which contributes to a certain down-to-earthness and depth and is mainly responsible for the elegant, seductive and adult nuance.
All ingredients are pleasant and balanced around the powdery-sweet heliotrope dosed with slight advantages for the patchouli. The powderiness isn't make-up case powderiness, but rather reminiscent of baby powder, but with an adult touch. In the second half, the fragrance shifts more towards a sweet, sandalwood creamy vanilla fragrance - not quite so powdery anymore - and becomes a little denser and more set. Here he loses some of his fascination for me, because he no longer plays with the opposites of powderiness and spice. The first half, however, is always worth testing and carrying. There he is really special and independent.

Nowadays it can also be used for men and women, even though the gentle sweetness tends towards the female side. Due to its balance of freshness and sufficient depth it can be worn all year round. The shelf life is also remarkable and makes it a fragrance with a signature character, as the saying goes. Sillage and projection are moderate.

Compared to the new edition of 2014, this one, like the Eau de Cologne, is a bit fresher, airier and a bit less synthetic, whereas the synthetics are only subliminal and never disturbing. Both are great scents, but I prefer the original slightly in both cases.

P.S.: If you are interested in some background information about Helmut Lang and his fragrance collection, you will find it in my commentary on the EdC from 2014:
https://www.parfumo.de/Parfums/Helmut_Lang/Helmut_Lang__Eau_en_Cologne_2014#review_103176