If you like Shalimar...

First of all, what makes a perfume a Shalimaresque? Is it really a traditional ambery scent? Perhaps an amber, with a warm vanillic base? Guerlain themselves summarize the what I call the Queen of Perfumes into three inoffensive notes: vanilla, bergamot, iris. To me, there's much more than that! Sadly, Shalimaresques aren't worn that often these days: we as a society prefer clean-smelling perfumes nowadays. Long gone are the days when you had to wear a loud perfume to drown out the ambient cigarette smoke, or simply when it was in fashion. But many of us find Shalimar comforting, or sexy, or interesting, or outrageously attractive. And I am one of those people.

I started my journey into the world of fragrance in late 2022, and back then I thought I didn't like Shalimar because of an unfortunate testing in a duty free shop. So, I didn't have the chance to smell Shalimar Millésime Tonka or Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia when they were in store. I believe liking Shalimar is an acquired taste, but when you get it, there is no way back. I am on that side of the fence now, and I can't get enough of it!

So, if you like Shalimar and would like to explore the genre, you are in the right place. If you don't fully like it because of certain notes, you are also welcome: here I will present some fragrances that remind me of Shalimar, but differ in some notes and accords, or are outright different but share the same aura.

1. Opus 1144 - Filippo Sorcinelli

While Shalimar has candied bergamot (does that even exist?) as a top note, Opus 1144 feels like an ambery candied mandarin orange. To my nose, this has the same floral middle and resinous base as Shalimar, minus the smoky note: the result is a tad sweeter, less sexy and more joyful.

2. Labdanum 18 - Le Labo

Labdanum 18 is all about labdanum in all its resinous glory. It is skin-hugging, velvety and slighty powdery, just like Shalimar. A hint of civet or castoreum-like muskiness lingers beneath, adding a subtle animalic warmth without feeling barnyard, too harsh or aggressive. There is a softness that is suede-like, and the warmth coupled with the muskiness makes it effortlessly elegant. It really is a golden aura of musky, ambery softness that lingers beautifully, just like out adored Shalimar.

3. Kismet - Lubin

The opening notes are just different interpretations of the same bergamot: Shalimar's bergamot is candied, while Kismet's is fresh. After the initial citrus blast, comes the balmy goodness: they both share the opoponax DNA, and the glamourous Roaring 20's vibe. It is still more delicate and solar than Shalimar, as its heart notes don't share the same buttery and sugary aspects. It is a perfume that morphs a lot during its stay on the skin, too, because the citrus disappear after a while to let a vanillic rose shine.

4. Musc Ravageur - Frédéric Malle

While Shalimar opens up with a top note of citrus, Musc Ravageur begins with it's core: spices. There is some bergamot, but it's in the background of cinnamon and other spicy notes. They are both powdery and sort of animalic, and give the same vibe of "dirty" powder (as in, opposed to "clean", not "filthy" per se... Does this even make sense?). Shalimar is a lot denser, let's not forget this is supposed to be a musk! So compared side to side, Musc Ravageur is almost airy? I don't know...

5. Opoponax Intense - Ava Luxe

This one is less bright than Shalimar in the opening: there is only a slight trace of citrus (and more like orange or mandarin orange). It's less rounded around the edges, because the composition is simpler, but if you love the base of Shalimar you might like this. It's pure opoponax, and it is so dense that it reminds me a bit of Youth-Dew Eau de Parfum . There aren't any floral notes, or I cannot detect them. There's no buttery orris, so the scent is sharper, and there isn't any vanilla so the scent is drier. However, don't be afraid, it is lovely as a standalone perfume, and I believe it has the same vibes that Shalimar gives: a golden aura around an elegant woman wearing a dark fur coat and pointy heels.

After a while, this fragrance smooths out. It somehow smells "cleaner" than Shalimar, while sharing that quite powdery aspect.

6. Musc Kalirii - Maison Incens

A very fruity-floral musk, that exudes a sense of imperial elegance and hypnotic allure. While there's bergamot in the opening, all I can smell is the bitter orange and the flower bouquet lying beneath. Because orange blossom, jasmine and rose are very juicy here, and add warmth and depth to the composition. It is VERY strong, with powerful sillage and longevity.

7. Ligea La Sirena - Carthusia

It first starts as the summertime, less serious sister of the glamorous Shalimar. They both have bergamot, but to me it smells more like candied lemon in both perfumes. Then, the cloves take the spotlight and never leave: it is still powdery but a lot less ambery, and still warm but a different warmth from Shalimar. Here, it comes from spices, making it an almost medicinal fragrance, while the latter has more balsamic notes that make it rounder. I still believe that if you like Shalimar, you might like this one: a simpler, less complicated fragrance for the warmer days (but not hotter, it is still potent).

8. Habanita - Molinard

This is first and foremost a powdery perfume, with smoky and ambery undertones. It is considered one of the most enigmatic and daring vintage fragrances ever created, and has stood the test of time since just like our beloved Shalimar. They even date back to the same era! If Shalimar is the refined Parisian in silk and pearls, Habanita is the smoky-eyed femme fatale in a velvet dress.

It opens with a distinctive dry, almost ashy smokiness mixed with soft, powdery florals, and some spice. The golden warmth comes after this stage, and rounds the rougher edges of this scent. The result is a timeless, sensual and slightly rebellious fragrance. I know some people say it smells of baby powder, but to me it is much more than that.

9. Bengale Rouge - Papillon Artisan Perfumes

This is very honey-centric, but shares some similarities with Shalimar nonetheless. It is a plush, honeyed and musky ambery fragrance, both sensual and comforting. It is never overwhelming: it melds well with the skin of the wearer, which makes this more of a skin-scent. It feels vintage, just like Shalimar, but never old: just timeless elegance.

Now, tell me: what are your favourite Shalimaresques?