ScentGrail
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ScentGrail
Not worth the hype
The one thing anyone who has loved this fragrance for years will notice is the unfortunate fact that Fahrenheit Parfum has been reformulated. This especially hits hard at the distinct depth it used to have in prior formulations. These days, Le Parfum is slightly thinner and doesn’t perform like a beast as it used to. Since the original EDT was an airy fragrance, this doesn’t bother me, but it is worth noting before buying. Besides the apparent downfalls, the blend is essentially the same, which makes it more versatile.
TOP NOTES
What made me smile was not that “gasoline accord” but a beautiful mandarin orange in the opening, which both EDT and EDP now share. I also get slight hints of something spicy and aromatic, along with the newcomer to this blend: rum.
This rum smells more like those little rum bottles you would use for baking than a classic rum alcohol drink, which is a nice touch.
HEART NOTES
I wish the opening had lasted longer since it was original and pleasant, but from then on, it is nothing new and nowhere near the level of the 80s legend. As some other reviewers have said, unnamed spices are here, but I would love to hear from them about where they are getting all of them. Maybe cumin, but just maybe. Besides unnamed spices, the suede leather gets more intense, and the sweetness intensifies, making it an excellent choice for a different kind of clubbing or a regular night-out winter fragrance.
BASE NOTES
And, now, the dry down. Powdery vanilla, benzoin, amber, and an overload of smooth tonka bean(first mentioned on Scent Grail) are what I get. The violet, leather, and rum are still present, but this massive amount of vanillic notes, accords, and notes kills this one for me. I may have grown tired of these kinds of perfumes, or I’m at a different stage of my perfume journey, but the vanilla extreme will get tiresome to almost everyone after enough time has passed.
OVERALL
In my opinion, this is Dior’s third-best “Parfum” release, after Eau Sauvage Parfum and Dior Homme Parfum(also overhyped), but better than Sauvage Parfum. It’s a safe blind buy that you can easily wear during the colder months and chilly nights to gather a positive impression. But remember that this edition is far from as good or original as the one and only Fahrenheit Eau de Toilette.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
What made me smile was not that “gasoline accord” but a beautiful mandarin orange in the opening, which both EDT and EDP now share. I also get slight hints of something spicy and aromatic, along with the newcomer to this blend: rum.
This rum smells more like those little rum bottles you would use for baking than a classic rum alcohol drink, which is a nice touch.
HEART NOTES
I wish the opening had lasted longer since it was original and pleasant, but from then on, it is nothing new and nowhere near the level of the 80s legend. As some other reviewers have said, unnamed spices are here, but I would love to hear from them about where they are getting all of them. Maybe cumin, but just maybe. Besides unnamed spices, the suede leather gets more intense, and the sweetness intensifies, making it an excellent choice for a different kind of clubbing or a regular night-out winter fragrance.
BASE NOTES
And, now, the dry down. Powdery vanilla, benzoin, amber, and an overload of smooth tonka bean(first mentioned on Scent Grail) are what I get. The violet, leather, and rum are still present, but this massive amount of vanillic notes, accords, and notes kills this one for me. I may have grown tired of these kinds of perfumes, or I’m at a different stage of my perfume journey, but the vanilla extreme will get tiresome to almost everyone after enough time has passed.
OVERALL
In my opinion, this is Dior’s third-best “Parfum” release, after Eau Sauvage Parfum and Dior Homme Parfum(also overhyped), but better than Sauvage Parfum. It’s a safe blind buy that you can easily wear during the colder months and chilly nights to gather a positive impression. But remember that this edition is far from as good or original as the one and only Fahrenheit Eau de Toilette.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
The best alternative to Creed Aventus on the market!
Before I start to describe this scent profile, you should know a couple of things before buying this fragrance. Ultimately, this is not an original release, but its smoky undertones strongly resemble those of Creed’s most popular fragrance. It is also the best bang-for-buck alternative since it can be purchased for little more than one-fourth of its retail price on fragrance discounters. Now then. Let’s get into its note breakdown.
TOP NOTES
To my nose, it opens with a beautiful, photorealistic note of pineapple-like juicy bergamot, comparable to the most expensive niche fragrances on the market. There is an undertone of pink pepper in the opening, just enough to add a touch of piquancy to the citrus. The comparison to the Creed is most apparent here, and I believe most fragrance enthusiasts will see the closest similarities.
HEART NOTES
The best part is the fragrance heart, where we are introduced to the smell of Mediterranean cypress. I love how they took a different route here, adding something new to this genre. It adds depth and character and starts shifting in an aromatic and woody direction, a wise move from Micallef. Jasmine plays a subtle role and adds a touch of delicate indolic sweetness without ever becoming overpowered.
BASE NOTES
Combining smoky patchouli and oakmoss provides a nice woody contrast to the citrusy opening and aromatic heart.
I love how the brand achieved these denser notes while feeling light enough and never entering old-school masculine territory. On some other websites, leather has been mentioned as an included note, but it’s not here, and it’s better not to expect it rather than be disappointed by its lack. Musk plays a supporting role in the base, providing a smooth and sensual finish.
OVERALL
It is a fragrance that exceeded my expectations, which I set according to what this product is. It’s a great alternative to Creed’s masterpiece and something always good to have in the collection when you want to smell better than your average designer scent. This M.Micallef creation is more like a sharp suit – classic, sophisticated, and guaranteed to turn heads.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
To my nose, it opens with a beautiful, photorealistic note of pineapple-like juicy bergamot, comparable to the most expensive niche fragrances on the market. There is an undertone of pink pepper in the opening, just enough to add a touch of piquancy to the citrus. The comparison to the Creed is most apparent here, and I believe most fragrance enthusiasts will see the closest similarities.
HEART NOTES
The best part is the fragrance heart, where we are introduced to the smell of Mediterranean cypress. I love how they took a different route here, adding something new to this genre. It adds depth and character and starts shifting in an aromatic and woody direction, a wise move from Micallef. Jasmine plays a subtle role and adds a touch of delicate indolic sweetness without ever becoming overpowered.
BASE NOTES
Combining smoky patchouli and oakmoss provides a nice woody contrast to the citrusy opening and aromatic heart.
I love how the brand achieved these denser notes while feeling light enough and never entering old-school masculine territory. On some other websites, leather has been mentioned as an included note, but it’s not here, and it’s better not to expect it rather than be disappointed by its lack. Musk plays a supporting role in the base, providing a smooth and sensual finish.
OVERALL
It is a fragrance that exceeded my expectations, which I set according to what this product is. It’s a great alternative to Creed’s masterpiece and something always good to have in the collection when you want to smell better than your average designer scent. This M.Micallef creation is more like a sharp suit – classic, sophisticated, and guaranteed to turn heads.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
Still going strong
One thing you should know about AHS is that a 20-year gap between a release and now does many things that usually make that older fragrance smell less original. That’s how things are and how the perfume world works. So, to put it simply, AHS is not as original as it might have been ten or twenty years ago. The most important question that one should ask himself before spending that big money is, what do I want from a summer-oriented release? Do I want a slightly generic-smelling but high-quality versatile fragrance I will use, or something like Orto Parisi Bergamask, an artistic niche beast, but you’ll never finish the bottle? If you asked me ten out of ten times, I would choose AHS. That is my opinion, and I have grown from these too artistic fragrances that I rarely use.
TOP NOTES
AHS opens up a refreshing burst of citrus that instantly awakens the senses. I love it, and a few other citrus-oriented fragrances(designer or niche) rarely come close to it. The main note here is a juicy, photorealistic orange that is to die for, and after all this time, it still retains its original “allure.” This vibrancy is complemented by the brand’s signature note of immediately detectable aldehydes, which are done in a masculine way, as in, for example, Dior Homme Sport 2021.
HEART NOTES
As the fragrance settles, we are greeted by floral touches of neroli that sit below the apparent marine accord.
Although I love these “sea notes” from the 2000s, they are starting to show their age, since in the last decade we have seen many more natural recreations of this accord, yet I don’t mind it when I consider the whole package. I’m glad to report that by the time the composition reaches its base notes, all is good regarding the blend, but thinner than before.
BASE NOTES
So, what do I get in the base? Well, that warmness from the original Allure is still here since you can detect that vanilla, along with the other dominant notes from the opening and the heart. Marine accord works especially during the hottest days of the year, but with the price of being devoid of other darker and woodies notes that used to be stronger. Finally, white musk joins the party, leaving a subtle hint of “something sexy” that sticks around long after the citruses and aldehydes fade.
OVERALL
It would be unfair for me to place AHS anywhere other than in the Holy Grail category. It has endured the passing trends of perfumery and will continue to be the signature fragrance of millions of men around the world. It is my favorite from the whole Allure line, and it is the one I will gladly return to in the coming years.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
AHS opens up a refreshing burst of citrus that instantly awakens the senses. I love it, and a few other citrus-oriented fragrances(designer or niche) rarely come close to it. The main note here is a juicy, photorealistic orange that is to die for, and after all this time, it still retains its original “allure.” This vibrancy is complemented by the brand’s signature note of immediately detectable aldehydes, which are done in a masculine way, as in, for example, Dior Homme Sport 2021.
HEART NOTES
As the fragrance settles, we are greeted by floral touches of neroli that sit below the apparent marine accord.
Although I love these “sea notes” from the 2000s, they are starting to show their age, since in the last decade we have seen many more natural recreations of this accord, yet I don’t mind it when I consider the whole package. I’m glad to report that by the time the composition reaches its base notes, all is good regarding the blend, but thinner than before.
BASE NOTES
So, what do I get in the base? Well, that warmness from the original Allure is still here since you can detect that vanilla, along with the other dominant notes from the opening and the heart. Marine accord works especially during the hottest days of the year, but with the price of being devoid of other darker and woodies notes that used to be stronger. Finally, white musk joins the party, leaving a subtle hint of “something sexy” that sticks around long after the citruses and aldehydes fade.
OVERALL
It would be unfair for me to place AHS anywhere other than in the Holy Grail category. It has endured the passing trends of perfumery and will continue to be the signature fragrance of millions of men around the world. It is my favorite from the whole Allure line, and it is the one I will gladly return to in the coming years.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
Short of being great
My experience with this perfume was realizing how our big expectations and falling into hype can be a double-edged sword. I love how the blend is done expertly and how this composition successfully encapsulates the contrasts of a great workplace and night-out fragrance. It is one of those scents that should be sampled before buying since it does not possess compliment-getting qualities like Aventus. Since it is priced in the same way as better offerings from Creed, I realize why it became a lukewarm release and disappointed some fragrance enthusiasts.
TOP NOTES
The opening of this fragrance is just beautiful. This composition is classic and modern, ideal for more mature men.
I adore this combination of citruses and powerful mint, which reminds me of that one in Acqua di Parma’s Club Colonia. It is a masculine blend that thankfully takes a step in another direction by ditching ambergris for something completely new, which was a bold move from the brand if we consider what came before it.
HEART NOTES
As soon as the heart notes start to kick in, the clove note starts to overtake the composition. I love cloves, which is evident in the fact that Frederic Malle’s Musc Ravageur is my favourite fragrance. Let this serve as a warning before you buy this product. It is not for everyone, and the clove blend here comes entirely naturally, just as if you were to open a new bag of this spice. For better or worse, the allspice mix gets even more intense in this stage, accompanied by the pepper in the opening. For me, this is great, but this is where Viking starts to remind me of Old Spice cologne, but it is on a much higher execution level.
BASE NOTES
Lavender dominates the base, along with white musk, woods, and residues of the more robust notes from the opening and middle stages. Even if I understand the inspiration behind this creation, including something like chocolate patchouli in a vein found in Jovoy’s Incident Diplomatique, it could have made this masterpiece. It just feels like something is missing in the base, and excluding ambergris from this composition was a great decision since it wouldn’t work here; there should have been more in the base.
OVERALL THOUGHTS
Does this one have the potential to become a classic in the future? Probably not in the broader aspect of things, and it is one of those products at risk of being discontinued in the future and getting a cult status in collectors circles. Nonetheless, it is good enough for me to keep it until I use the whole bottle, and it is a more exciting release than Original Santal.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
The opening of this fragrance is just beautiful. This composition is classic and modern, ideal for more mature men.
I adore this combination of citruses and powerful mint, which reminds me of that one in Acqua di Parma’s Club Colonia. It is a masculine blend that thankfully takes a step in another direction by ditching ambergris for something completely new, which was a bold move from the brand if we consider what came before it.
HEART NOTES
As soon as the heart notes start to kick in, the clove note starts to overtake the composition. I love cloves, which is evident in the fact that Frederic Malle’s Musc Ravageur is my favourite fragrance. Let this serve as a warning before you buy this product. It is not for everyone, and the clove blend here comes entirely naturally, just as if you were to open a new bag of this spice. For better or worse, the allspice mix gets even more intense in this stage, accompanied by the pepper in the opening. For me, this is great, but this is where Viking starts to remind me of Old Spice cologne, but it is on a much higher execution level.
BASE NOTES
Lavender dominates the base, along with white musk, woods, and residues of the more robust notes from the opening and middle stages. Even if I understand the inspiration behind this creation, including something like chocolate patchouli in a vein found in Jovoy’s Incident Diplomatique, it could have made this masterpiece. It just feels like something is missing in the base, and excluding ambergris from this composition was a great decision since it wouldn’t work here; there should have been more in the base.
OVERALL THOUGHTS
Does this one have the potential to become a classic in the future? Probably not in the broader aspect of things, and it is one of those products at risk of being discontinued in the future and getting a cult status in collectors circles. Nonetheless, it is good enough for me to keep it until I use the whole bottle, and it is a more exciting release than Original Santal.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
Criminally underrated
My experience with Ormonde Man was among the finest discoveries I have seen in years. It has everything I want, from high-end perfumery and more. This exceptional fragrance carves its path in the olfactory world, offering a captivating blend of classic and unexpected notes. Since it can be purchased for a little more than $100.00 for a big 120ml bottle, this one gets my highest recommendations for everyone who has slept on this brand.
TOP NOTES
The opening is so good that words cannot adequately describe it, but I’ll try my best. Imagine a brisk mountain breeze gently touching your face in the early morning as you walk through a pine forest. The spicy notes of cardamom, pink pepper, juniper berries, and coriander are made realistically, bringing out this citric and fresh quality. The additional sweetness with a juicy lift comes from bergamot to round up the composition. Together, they provide a stimulating and sophisticated opening.
HEART NOTES
The delightful blend continues into the middle notes as well. The citrusy and spicy nuances remain, and the overall greenness amplifies its power, but never into the old-school territory. Black hemlock, also known as mountain hemlock (Tsuga mertensiana), isn’t natural here since the real deal is highly poisonous. The use of black hemlock absolute (a concentrated oil extract) in Ormonde Man adds a unique and unexpected layer of complexity to the fragrance. Even though Jayne’s marketing on their website boasts that Man is using natural Laotian Oud here, there is no agarwood in this composition, which is not bad.
BASE NOTES
The base notes of Man are the anchor that grounds the fragrance and are the elements that work together to create a satisfying and unforgettable finish. Hemlock is still present here but infused with an overdose of cedarwood, vetiver, and sandalwood, similar to those found in Escentric Molecules perfumes. Contemporary, sexy, and warm, these base notes meld with my skin and become part of my core. They linger for a long time, like whispered promises, inviting me to explore their depths repeatedly.
OVERALL
Ormonde is one of the most underrated masterpieces, signature-worthy fragrances everyone should discover.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
The opening is so good that words cannot adequately describe it, but I’ll try my best. Imagine a brisk mountain breeze gently touching your face in the early morning as you walk through a pine forest. The spicy notes of cardamom, pink pepper, juniper berries, and coriander are made realistically, bringing out this citric and fresh quality. The additional sweetness with a juicy lift comes from bergamot to round up the composition. Together, they provide a stimulating and sophisticated opening.
HEART NOTES
The delightful blend continues into the middle notes as well. The citrusy and spicy nuances remain, and the overall greenness amplifies its power, but never into the old-school territory. Black hemlock, also known as mountain hemlock (Tsuga mertensiana), isn’t natural here since the real deal is highly poisonous. The use of black hemlock absolute (a concentrated oil extract) in Ormonde Man adds a unique and unexpected layer of complexity to the fragrance. Even though Jayne’s marketing on their website boasts that Man is using natural Laotian Oud here, there is no agarwood in this composition, which is not bad.
BASE NOTES
The base notes of Man are the anchor that grounds the fragrance and are the elements that work together to create a satisfying and unforgettable finish. Hemlock is still present here but infused with an overdose of cedarwood, vetiver, and sandalwood, similar to those found in Escentric Molecules perfumes. Contemporary, sexy, and warm, these base notes meld with my skin and become part of my core. They linger for a long time, like whispered promises, inviting me to explore their depths repeatedly.
OVERALL
Ormonde is one of the most underrated masterpieces, signature-worthy fragrances everyone should discover.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
