Smora

Smora

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Smora 6 years ago 5
6
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
7.5
Scent
Winter Delight
Scentrack:
Toto & Cheryl Lynne – Georgy Porgy

There was a big hype about Rich Warm Addictive, and with a good reason, I must concur. In my opinion Rich Warm Addictive is the best Zara fragrance for men to this date. However, I don’t consider it as a masterpiece. Rich Warm Addictive is sweet, cozy, affable, almost edible and very affordable. Unfortunately, the perfumer of this fragrance is not publicly known, but this person created a pretty good scent.
Rich Warm Addictive is very sweet from its first second. To my nose, there is an unidentified fruity note in the opening. Honey is very pronounced in Rich Warm Addictive, and in combination with huge tobacco creates a slightly alcoholic apricot mirage, similar to apricot in Slumberhouse Kiste. Like a Southern Comfort liquor accord. The coconut note is also strong, and gives the impression of suntan lotion. Personally, I like this coconut background role. At the base I can detect some light, artificial, but nice sandalwood note and some nuances of vanilla.

Rating: 7.5/10

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Smora 6 years ago 6
9
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
10
Scent
Prince Of Perfumes
Scentrack
Bobby Caldwell – What You Won’t Do For Love

Dior Homme opens with Earl Gray bergamot and a touch if herbs, but immediately blown away by posh and luxurious iris note. Classic lavender (an ode to classic French perfumery) has resisted for some time, but the iris have been just too strong. Decadent, golden, and velvety iris just dances on my skin. I especially like some pale fruity undertones under this iris explosion, like a dry fruit aquarelle. Darker and sweeter cacao note introduces some gourmand tendencies. Cacao combined with patchouli, amber, but especially soft leather leads the golden iris into a warm and comforting base. The base gives me a soft tobacco touch.
Dior Homme is a masterpiece overall. Unfortunately, Polge’s version is discontinued. However, current Demachy’s version is still very good. A little bit more masculine and direct, but I still prefer soft and refined nuances of the original.

Rating: 10/10

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Smora 6 years ago 5 1
7
Bottle
6
Sillage
6
Longevity
6
Scent
Mainstream Blockbuster
Scentrack
The Killers – When You Were Young

L’Homme is an easy, likeable fragrance. It is clean, positive, light and inoffensive. L’Homme is a compliment getter from the opposite sex.
It opens with bright citruses, peppery ginger and to my nose unidentified spices. To me L’Homme has some chamomile tea soft vibe. On my skin cedar becomes very soon the main player. Very pale vetiver note lays beneath a clean cedar and musk. Tonka bean gives just a touch of sweetness, but I have to admit I couldn’t recognize it without a help of Fragrantica’s note breakdown.
The whole composition is extremely well balanced and tweaked. A lot of work is spent to make so approachable. Some may say is too simple and boring, but I consider L’Homme as a great example of a mainstream blockbuster and financial success.

Rating: 6/10

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Smora 6 years ago 6
8
Bottle
9
Sillage
8
Longevity
8
Scent
Pure White
Scentrack
Larry Heard – Missing You

What I like the most about the Reflection is a magnificent opening. Strong shot of piercing neroli. So substantial like a 3D wave, accompanied by a tangy, peppery note that evolves in mild chili and a touch of white flowers. In the background is an herbal note of rosemary that reminds me of my childhood by the sea. This rosemary is not strong, but a crucial note that saves Reflection from dullness. Unfortunately, as the composition progresses, it gradually loses the excitement of unexpected. A very dim, synthetic note of rose and something similar to cumin usher the flowery heart in the focus. The note of powdery and pallid iris, complemented with white flowers takes the game. The combo is not bad, but a little bit monotone, shrunken and more synthetic. The composition evolves eventually in more synthetic and thin base. Overly washed sandalwood, signs of Eastern amber in ppb concentration, cedar with just a touch of Iso E Super like a school wooden crayons. Like the olfactory pyramid is constructed upside down.

Rating: 8/10

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Smora 6 years ago 4 1
10
Bottle
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
7
Scent
Retrox
Scentrack
Dylan Donkin – Make a Choice

Despite of the name L’Insoumis (translated rebel or unsubdued man), this fragrance is not so groundbreaking compared to many other fragrances launched, but for Lalique it is a novel direction. In my eyes, L’Insoumis is a reinterpretation of classic fougere theme for the 21st century.

L’Insoumis opens slightly sweet and coconut-like balmy with a lot going on. The sweetness is probably from rum note, although I do not perceive this rum as a proper liqueur note. Bergamot is strong in the opening, just reminding me of notorious Dior Sauvage. Soft basil is nicely paired with other notes, giving an herbal and somehow pine-like accord. Lavender, usually a central note in fougeres, is present, but subdued by the other notes. Ambrox® is, to my nose, easily noticeable, while a Firmenich’s new molecule – Clearwood® gives a soft patchouli twist to the whole composition. Lalique visually nailed the commercial, the opening smells like European pine forest in morning fog with wet, earthy undertones.

Rating: 7/10

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