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Theme hit
When you read the name and think about what it might smell like, you might hesitate a bit.
Well, let’s try it on the arm.... Spontaneous disgust. Curiosity, nose closer.... Keep a clear head and sniff out the notes..
What reminds one of “cellar”, “sweat” and “urine” is a demonic vetiver mixed with clove, which thus slightly resembles ammonia. Bitterly wicked, dark, and really loud.
Alright, so let’s also spray 2-3 times on the neck. A cloud of spicy darkness envelops me (for meters!) and I already get complaints: “Yuck, I have goosebumps, what is that”.
However, 5 hours later, it settles into a relatively soft, intriguing blend of cedar, dark vetiver, and a light, diffuse spice.
I find it relatively wearable, but you need to have people around you who appreciate this kind of thing. This is truly art again.
From a composition standpoint, it’s extremely angular and tightly woven, which I often find better than traditional perfumery that makes everything seem so round and soft.
This one throws you back and forth every few minutes. Exciting experience. I wouldn’t buy a bottle, but it is definitely worth a sample.
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Private Room for Two
I book a room for two: Me and Jovoy.
Here are my favorite notes in fragrances:
Leather, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, labdanum, birch, cedar.
Looking at Private Label, it’s quite clear why I shouted in sheer excitement “YES! YES FINALLY” after the first spray of Private Label (so much so that I was asked from the next room if everything was alright..)
Vetiver at its finest, mixed with slightly smoky but wearable birch, and in the drydown, slightly earthy, grounding, and soft.
For me, an incredible blend for any weather - the vetiver here is refreshingly resolved, the patchouli with the birch makes it dark and truly masculine-herbaceous, and for that, it’s absolutely cozy even in winter.
Especially recommended is the incredibly beautifully packaged Jovoy Discovery Set, where all the brand's perfumes are delivered in a lovely box made of velvet, each with cards and fragrance notes for each scent. Great presentation.
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The Beautiful without the Beast
Blamage.
Certainly the most beautiful bottle in my collection, absolutely dreamy.
Gualtieri has certainly done a great job promoting the fragrance and his work process with his documentation. It clearly shows that perfume is not just craftsmanship, but in the right hands, it is an artistic creative process.
Blamage is exactly that for me.
It smells absolutely "different" from many Nasomattos, absolutely "strange," but not like Fantomas, where you wrinkle your nose at first, but then want more. I hardly get any woody notes, but rather an art-fruit with musk and white flowers.
For me, Nasomatto has two guiding principles: perfumes that smell and behave like perfumes (Black Afgano, Hindu Grass, Baraonda, Duro) and "art scents," which do not produce the effect that the average consumer expects from a perfume, but rather trigger a "what's that smell" reaction. A beautiful scent that doesn't exist otherwise. Fantomas belongs to this category (Duro with floaty plastic, but a scent I often miss), Silver Musk (metallic musk, instantly recognizable, but not available as a scent otherwise) and Blamage - fruit-lightwood-musk-fresh-strange.
Cool scent that will surely accompany me on warm days. For all days under 20 degrees, it lacks a bit of punch, but it's a great creation.
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Gualtieri Flat Rate
I could simply transfer a few hundred euros to Alessandro Gualtieri every month, and he would send me whatever he has newly created. I trust him that much by now.
Hindu Grass is certainly not an extravagant perfume like Fantomas or a unique piece like Blamage, nor is it a classic of a generation like Black Afgano, which surely represents the building blocks of his success, but it still has a simple way of bringing a "thank you" to my lips.
He seems to have read my mind: "do something with green, a light patchouli and rose, but more on the soapy side, to round it off."
My prayers have been answered. Those who like Diptyque Tempo but find it too shallow will finally find their fulfillment here.
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Finally Something Like This
I have always wondered which fragrance manages to process vetiver in a creamy way or even slightly gourmand.
Here it finally is!
Soft vetiver with cream. Round, yet still green.
If vetiver were to exist as a cake ingredient, it would be exactly this scent.
Otherwise, vetiver struggles to evoke the same sense of comfort in me as amber does, but always tends to be so "green."
Vetiver cake.