Ttfortwo

I'm undecided.

L'avion has some friends like Nofrete, Loewenherz, Minigolf, FvSpee and others. That has something to say, I trust the judgements of these colleagues here.

I'm still undecided.

I wrote in a statement that for this fragrance every pack had really been torn open, conifer ethereal, grass, cool floweriness, spices (thankfully without cinnamon), powder, warmth, coolness, a pinch of Orientalism, the whole circle of fifths up front and down back again.

The top note with the nose on the skin says: A mighty flush of cool-blooded scents, I smell lavender - cool and gently spicy, I smell dark green notes, this is beautiful and distant and reminds me of a very big Lehmann favourite of mine, the wonderful melancholic Reseda. A green cool flower scent - in the style of Vintage No 19 e.g.

The top note from further away however says: conifer and grass, very green, very freshly cut, with a hint of coumarin - a Fougère with a clear focus on the spruce needle.

So that's how my surroundings smell me and now I'm a Fougère fan, but I'm afraid my surroundings aren't so much. I'd rather wear Fougères alone. It is only gradually that the flowers take over the direction in the distant effect, tart and beautifully distant, but spruce needle green always remains audible.

Gently powdery, but without even the slightest hint of sweetness or soft non-binding, always on the waiting and herbblütigen side, the smell becomes only gradually, however, in the course of time a quite delicately spiced twist comes in addition - Orient-light so to speak - also beautiful and the whole finally ends in a warm resinous base chord, which I also know from some other Lehmänner.

It is not the case that the fragrance did not smell beautiful and worth smelling in almost every phase of its rapid development (quite untypical of a clay man, it makes quite a lot of a go through). It's just that I appreciate the continuity of a clay man and almost expect it. Lehmanns are not head note blenders, they almost always start almost in the same way as they smell in the heart and finally ebb away in the typical Lehmannsche Benzoe-Vanille-Amber-Accord, many at least do - which I really appreciate.

No, now I'm not undecided:

This is not bad - it is even much better than much of what I have tested. And won't be a darling after all. Because: If I want Fougère, then I reach for the Lehmann of the same name (unfortunately discontinued). If I want cool melancholic-distant bloom, then I reach for Reseda. And if I want green-warning silkiness, then to my favorite clay man Vamos.

That's a problem: Saffron is currently so often married to Oud that I think Sensuel has saffron as the first thing: to smell Oud. Pretty pawlesk. Just like plum often frees a cinnamon-like scented spirit from the bottle - even if there is no cinnamon anywhere.

So: I smell Oud-Safran with something very finely fruity, I would have rather tipped on the sweet mandarin than on the lemon, the overall impression of the top note is a more harmonious and pleasant. Rather spicy and not too bright. There is a sweet bunny in it, not listed, but half a spoonful of a soft smelling honey seems to have been given to me.

As it develops, the fragrance very quickly reduces to a very discreet and reserved, rather introverted heart, with a fine amber note, old silver incense threads and - very delicately dosed - a soft, dark vanilla. The blossoms hum only, reservedly and quietly. I can see a velvety rose - also soft and dark.

That's nice. A good office fragrance, a fine, very valuable companion through everyday life, if the fragrance should not be bright, light and lovely and not fresh. Not too cute. Not too dark. Not crass, not loud, not shrill. Today - it's rumbling outside at single-digit temperatures, autumn says goodbye and a winter before it shows its wet and cool face - today it's a perfect scent.

Meanwhile, I think I can detect a kind of common DNA in at least three of the tested "Collection privée" Galimards. "Aoud Rose", "Ambre", and "Safran Sensuel" have this in common - almost to the point of self-abandonment. What these three fragrances have in common is a rather dull, soft basic tone with a slight bitter balsamic spice, none of the fragrances is fresh, all the flowers have half lowered their eyes, concealed, darkened, sweetness is evenly distributed to all. No sparkle, no glow, shimmer at best. All of them smell a little bit sedate, timeless (or is it retro?), and very reserved. They are introverted, finely tuned companions through everyday life, gentle, quiet and noble.

This is certainly also their common weak point: none of the three is able to gain anything new from the idea of "perfume". And: Whoever owns one of the three does not need the other two. A description of "Aoud Rose" I will therefore also give to myself. He smells - one already suspects it - like his brothers and sisters with a little bit more of delicate rose.

Zuuter last: The Sillage is reserved, the durability is fine.

There are very few fragrances that leave me speechless. Speechless because they're so beautiful. Because they're so beautiful, sometimes I almost get tears. When I wear Dioressence, the old one, it's not because I want to smell good, nor because I want to smell something good. I wear it so I won't forget what it smells like.

Dioressence, the old one, in the Esprit de Perfum concentration, I have now already over half a year, a few drops anyway.

It seemed irrefutable to me that I would never, never write a comment about it, simply because I cannot. Because I can't live up to this beauty. Because it wouldn't have gotten beyond breathless, helpless, loving babble.

There are some perfumos here whom I trust to really appreciate this fragrance with their own means, there would be the eloquent dissectors and universalists FvSpee and Yatagan, there would be the formerly so angry Can, meanwhile a little bit age-wise, who is capable of beguiling declarations of love, there would be Serenissima who can conjure up such airy images as hardly anyone. There's so many of them, Consalik, Palonera, - just... not me. I can describe fragrances, but not beauty.

Why am I writing now? Because someone has to. Write it down: That's the nicest thing I've ever smelled.

If you meet him, the old Dioressence, then please, buy it, take it with you, keep it in your refrigerators and cellars and keep it in your hearts. Because at some point there won't be a single drop left and who, if not us, should remember the old one, the dioressence, which is so beautiful that sometimes my tears almost come a little bit.

... at least without the usual, cheerful and cheerful notes, these citric, bergamot-like, airy nose catcher, which push their way directly into the limbic system, inevitably triggering a happiness hormone cascaded buying reflex there.

This one starts with a very delicate sweetened cumin seed, a little sweaty, a little grumpy and spooned up - as if the scent had slept badly, a little off, not directly in a bad mood, but shortly before. Still - surprise! - portable. Only unusual and needs getting used to and very, very peculiar.

The cumin trolls into the second row in a good-natured, grumpy manner, perhaps after half an hour, and gives way to the milky herbaceous scent of unripe nuts and an earthy, very dry patchouli.

After about one and a half hours on the skin, a peculiar heart note has almost completely established itself, dry as dust, ambered and very woody. A pleasant wood, old, aromatic, darkly shimmering, brightly polished, beaned, greened up by some elder stem marrow herbaceousness. The hint of vanilla is conciliatory, grumbling and taciturn in a good-natured way, but the scent remains throughout the whole time.

He's hardly going to change for a few hours now: Dark wood, very soft vanilla and dry amber spices just become softer and say goodbye to my skin after four or five hours. My clothes smell perceptibly good six hours, delicately last hunches remain until the next day.

Gaïac Précieux does completely without flowers - the violet, I once smelled it, but mostly not in the last attempts - does not play an independent role, it fits very indirectly into the overall impression.

It's not an overly pleasing scent, dark, peculiar, a bit grumpy and with such a defiant "Dann-komm-Du-doch" attitude. Nevertheless I like it - in contrast to "Bois" from the same collection, which approaches the theme of "wood" from the silvery light side - and with its extreme, almost plastic-like synthetics I will not find love with it.

The Sillage remains - extrait-typically - in the adequate range, softly perceptible on good arm length. The shelf life is fine.

Friendly, fine, devoted, this is the fragrance from the high-priced Galimard "Collection Privée" series and one of the few from the series that I really like.

The top note smells slightly more fruity than the pyramid suggests. The violet is right at the front of the start, fine sweet, but not sticky, more natural than liqueury. The juniper berry is not recognizable to me (it's a pity, I like the scent of juniper in all its varieties, including the berries), but maybe it is more of a sweet regulator in the background.

I have met the rose geranium several times before, a Bourbon rose geranium not yet, at least not consciously, a short googling gives me the following fragrance profile: "Soft, flowery, rose-like, at the same time a hint of green-herbal". I believe gladly, because the heart note shows beside a tender, rather cool rose a small herbaceous edge and a still very pleasing violet. The Patchouly holds himself back, if necessary he may support the foundation a little. The whole thing is quite airy and delicate meshed, pleasantly reserved and finely balanced.

Towards the base, the fragrance becomes a little warmer and more woody, a powdery musk without hairspray note provides a pleasant silver-grey velvety look.

That's nice. I like that. Really, I do. A friendly, restrained and value-smelling companion.

The shelf life is also halfway okay, with moderate and therefore environmentally friendly Sillage.

Nevertheless, two questions remain unanswered. Why the fragrance is called "Ambre" when it's not at all. I wonder if he'd be worth 160.