Jean-Louis Scherrer Jean-Louis Scherrer 1979 Eau de Parfum

Yes, bitter is how I would describe it. And I love that. It’s the galbanum and moss combination that leaves this rather cold and bitter impression. Close to being harsh. Then there are -literally- sparkles of aldehydes and iris. A very successful combination. Unapproachable yet sparkling with elegance.

Instead of a dramatic trilogy, Scherrer’s story appears a bit one-dimensional. A single chypre accord, so to speak. Until after a a few hours, all of a sudden a feline sticks its head out the grass. Ahh the civet. Gotcha!

Both the EDT and the EDP are lovely. I was told the EDP is closer to the original, I am yet to find that out for myself. It is more round, mellow and has more depth vs the EDT, that’s for sure. The EDT lacks the woody and floral nuances, but it is more bitter on the top and a bit more sparkling overall.

To me Scherrer may not even be the best scent of the genre but it sure does suit me perfectly. I don’t know if it just interacts well with my skin, but it feels closer to being ‘me’ than any other perfume. An extension of myself, rather than an artificial layer of scent. As a result, this perfume works wonders for me in every situation, every condition.

When I first joined parfumo 10 years ago, the topic of Chypre was hardly mentioned or only brought up in passing. Yes, I was even laughed at for my love of Chypre. But that didn’t bother me at all. Back then, flowers, confectionery, and niche houses were dominating the fragrance scene. The latter were just starting to capture general fragrance interest, and some became increasingly eccentric. Anyone who considered themselves someone supposedly only wore niche fragrances; at least that was claimed, but the internet is as patient as paper used to be,

The house of Scherrer also always bypassed the mainstream. Luckily!
Jean Louis Scherrer (1935-2013) was a French fashion designer. He created fashion in a sober and elegant style. In 1979, he presented his first perfume, JLS. It was supposed to be (at the time) a subtle blend of 150 ingredients. I find all the fragrance creations from the house of Scherrer to be magnificent, although I don’t know how many have fallen victim to reformulation.

For all those who have moved away from praline or soliflor, JLS is a revelation. If you’ve still had difficulty recognizing a Chypre, you’ll know after the first spray. AHA; THIS IS A CHYPRE! However, the good Scherrer is not a thunderous Chypre that knocks you off your feet immediately.
I could now rattle off the pyramid. I won’t, as it wouldn’t work due to its density and subtlety. But I want to turn on your imagination.
Imagine you’re sitting in a meadow at sunrise. I mean a meadow, not a 3 cm trimmed English lawn where no daisy, let alone a bee, bumblebee, or butterfly has a chance.
It’s still very cold, and there’s frost and a hint of hoarfrost glistening on the grass. Just like in the last days of this year. Slide a blanket under your bottom, or you’ll chill your bladder or other important organs.
Still, a few brave flowers are already blooming boldly, and the moss on the west side of old trees smells damp, with the pearls of the night mist hanging from it.
As the sun rises high, it sucks the last frost from the meadow, and green veils rise towards the sky.
The birds have been chirping for a long time this morning, and if they’re not, then you have to take over because you’ve made a wonderful discovery.

Somehow, lately I've only been writing negative reviews. But I'm actually not someone who constantly complains. So today, here’s a fragrance that I really like.

Scherrer is a name I know as a fashion label, but I've never come across their fragrances in stores. I got a large decant from the souk due to the good reviews. And when you’re surprised by such a gem, you understand why blind buys are so great ("I MUST have this fragrance... wait... I already have it").

Unfortunately, I can't offer you comparisons to the EDT, but the scent seems to nod friendly in the direction of Chanel No.19. They are by no means scent twins, but they share the same theme. Overall, the Scherrer feels a bit more subtle and lighter to me.

Right from the top notes, the green theme is dominant. A lovely amount of galbanum. The same is said to have a calming effect and is often used as incense. Angelliese described it beautifully. Green scents always have a refreshing quality, but this one also feels grounding to me. More calming and reassuring than overly cheerful. Like a comforting hug.

Over the next few hours, earthy and woody notes emerge. So well intertwined that I don’t even want to pick them apart. But the base is recognizable. Strangely, it only becomes floral afterward. I've been wearing the fragrance for 4 hours now. And slowly, the woody-earthy veil seems to lift, revealing a delicate floral aspect. Really just delicate. A slightly powdery iris (is there a difference between sword lily and iris?) and the jasmine is a bit heavier. Furthermore, patchouli with a hint of rose and vetiver now comes to the forefront. It’s becoming quite opulent. Although there’s no mega sillage, it seems to me that there’s a real fireworks display of flowers and earthy notes at the finale.

Super practical for anyone who doesn’t want to change fragrances in the evening. Green scents belong to sunshine for me, but this elegant finale also fits in a ballroom.

Unfortunately, I lack the touching words that Angelliese uses. But I can say that Jean-Louis Scherrer is one of those fragrances that you really don’t want to miss for a minute. I would love to just sit and sniff myself because so much is happening here, wrapping me in such a cozy way that I want to fully savor the feeling.

There aren’t many fragrances that touch you so deeply.

When I worked in the city of Salzburg back in the mid-nineties, a new colleague joined us.
Most people didn't like her because she wore too much makeup, was too loud with her fragrance, and wanted to be "good friends" with everyone too quickly.
At first, I secretly found her a bit too extroverted as well, but that changed when we discovered that we were both fans of this scent by Scherrer, and still are.
I had always held back a bit with perfumes at work, but she did not, so some things came off a bit too heavy, just not this SCHERRER.
This fragrance enchanted most of the people we encountered, as it was probably this combination of different notes, which I couldn't name myself (you can read about it here), that immediately drew people in with its charm.
I should also mention that we of course didn't wear Scherrer on the same day, and it smelled different on each of us anyway. She is a blonde, I was still dark-haired back then (now silver-gray), which probably contributed to the different scent perception.
I've lost touch with that colleague over time, but whenever I go to Salzburg, I think of her by wearing Jean Louis Scherrer. An extraordinary perfume, it hasn't lost any of its charm.

A good friend of mine acquired Scherrer 1 in the 1980s. At that time, Azurēe was my signature scent, and my friend loved the Chypres just as much as I did. However, she had fallen for the true Lauder hits: Cinnabar (1978) Eau de Parfum, Youth-Dew Eau de Parfum, Knowing Eau de Parfum, and also Opium (1977) Parfum and Anaïs Anaïs L'Original Eau de Parfum. I really enjoyed smelling all of these on her, but absolutely not on myself. I tried Opium again a few years ago, and it was still a no-go. That's something I have to live with now.
But I digress. My dear friend sprayed a sample of Scherrer 1 on my arm, and it felt almost as if she were spraying Azurée on me.

About the scent:
Scherrer 1 is neither floral nor oriental; it is a green Chypre. The green aspect comes from the galbanum, and surely the blackcurrant bud plays a role as well. The slight tingling in the nose could come from the bergamot combined with the tangerine, transitioning into a slightly bitter sharpness. I don't smell any iris, no rose, and I don't notice any jasmine either. Yet they are all present, but all components are so brilliantly woven with the base that none can or must push to the forefront, creating a magnificent scent impression that persists and persists and persists.
The only difference for me compared to Azurée is that this one radiates a bit more warmth, which Scherrer lacks, but I don't perceive that negatively.

When I sometimes read that the scent is strict, aloof, or reminiscent of grandma, I don't know what else; this fragrance, and I believe this applies to all Chypres, must be viewed in the context of its time, just like today's creations.
Chypres were, at the time of their creation, the scents of mostly tough women who wanted to break free from certain clichés, to set a counterpoint to long hair, fluttering skirts, and their visually feminine appearance. Not just sweet and cuddly, but also cheeky, rebellious, and a bit of a wildcat. That is Chypre.
And regarding what is considered "old," I notice that as a Chypre fan in the 70s and 80s, sweet, heavy fragrances seemed incredibly outdated to me. At that time, there were indeed the ones and the others. Only some things smooth out over the years, curiosity prevails, and tolerance grows... on to new scent impressions!