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I am an unconditional fan of the aroma of “Immortelles”. Not because the Greeks used it to crown images and statues of Apollo since the plant symbolized love. But first for the beautiful and unforgettable olfactory memories that I associate with it.
When in the late afternoons in summer I returned from the beach along the dunes of the Alentejo coast, in front of the pessegueiro island (Porto Covo - Portugal), I was blessed by a warm breeze that carried the comforting smell, at the same time spicy and relaxing, of “Immortelles” with small golden yellow flowers.
As a result, I have been a fan since the first hour of “Sables” by Annick Goutal, released in 1985. Probably the first fragrance in history in which everlasting flowers took center stage.
The great reference among fragrances centered on “immortelles” or “everlasting flowers” that was conceived as a declaration of love from Annick to her husband (Alain Meunier) trying to reproduce the sublime atmosphere of the days spent in Corsica during the summer. I still have a bottle of the 2nd reformulation.
Without a doubt the original Sables from 1985, with a very interesting refreshing black tea note (which disappeared in later versions) is much better than the 3 subsequent versions. Super dry, curry-like, a little bit creamy and sweet. Overpowering. A masterpiece and perhaps the brand's best fragrance ever.
Rating 10.
The 2nd version is powerful and masculine and also very good but more “earthy”, drier, hot and wild. Like the previous version, it has fantastic projection and sillage. A true Simum of the desert.
Rating: 9.
The latest version (I think it's the 4th reformulation) is lighter and with a slightly citrusy opening. More wearable, less intense and without the masculine splendor of the first 2 editions. However, the current Sables remains interesting and has a recognizable personality.
Rating: 7
Comparing the notes between the 1st and the last one better understands the reasons for the differences.
Notes from the 1st edition (1985):
Top notes: Immortelle and Cinnamon
Middle notes: Black pepper and Black tea
Base notes: Sandalwood and Amber.
Notes from the last and current edition:
To notes: Bergamot, Mandarine
Middle notes: Jasmine, Black pepper, Oakmoss
Base notes: Immortelle Sauvage, Santal d'Inde, Ambre
When in the late afternoons in summer I returned from the beach along the dunes of the Alentejo coast, in front of the pessegueiro island (Porto Covo - Portugal), I was blessed by a warm breeze that carried the comforting smell, at the same time spicy and relaxing, of “Immortelles” with small golden yellow flowers.
As a result, I have been a fan since the first hour of “Sables” by Annick Goutal, released in 1985. Probably the first fragrance in history in which everlasting flowers took center stage.
The great reference among fragrances centered on “immortelles” or “everlasting flowers” that was conceived as a declaration of love from Annick to her husband (Alain Meunier) trying to reproduce the sublime atmosphere of the days spent in Corsica during the summer. I still have a bottle of the 2nd reformulation.
Without a doubt the original Sables from 1985, with a very interesting refreshing black tea note (which disappeared in later versions) is much better than the 3 subsequent versions. Super dry, curry-like, a little bit creamy and sweet. Overpowering. A masterpiece and perhaps the brand's best fragrance ever.
Rating 10.
The 2nd version is powerful and masculine and also very good but more “earthy”, drier, hot and wild. Like the previous version, it has fantastic projection and sillage. A true Simum of the desert.
Rating: 9.
The latest version (I think it's the 4th reformulation) is lighter and with a slightly citrusy opening. More wearable, less intense and without the masculine splendor of the first 2 editions. However, the current Sables remains interesting and has a recognizable personality.
Rating: 7
Comparing the notes between the 1st and the last one better understands the reasons for the differences.
Notes from the 1st edition (1985):
Top notes: Immortelle and Cinnamon
Middle notes: Black pepper and Black tea
Base notes: Sandalwood and Amber.
Notes from the last and current edition:
To notes: Bergamot, Mandarine
Middle notes: Jasmine, Black pepper, Oakmoss
Base notes: Immortelle Sauvage, Santal d'Inde, Ambre
2 Comments
Smiles on a calm summer afternoon
A new release from this creative duo is always an event that generates high expectations.
I confess that I had some doubts because:
1 - In general, I don't like florals (especially rose and/or tuberose) with the exception of aromas with yellow wild flowers (immortelles, chamomile, gorse, broom).
2 – I'm always afraid of the aroma of excessive synthetic bombs dominating the fragrance.
Well, here was the exception that breaks the rule. It is IMHO a floral for both sexes and not a perfume dedicated to the female sex.
The flowers here are country, soft and fleeting.
Heliotrope (a powdery “vibe” reminiscent of almonds) dominates a little in the opening, but soon the broom takes over the olfactory landscape with the linden flower less prominent and in the background.
On the other hand, this fragrance also shows how Ambroxan can be well incorporated and with the appropriate percentage. An example that others should follow.
The perfume has 2 phases. The initial one is floral and lasts 1 to 2 hours. I confess that I didn't feel the lime mentioned on the MAB website.
Then in the 2nd phase Vetiver and wood dominate. The Vetiver is fabulous and reminds me of Encelade's Vetiver, which in turn reminded me of the great Vetiver from the middle of the last century and which I had never encountered again until this reunion in Encelade and Tilia.
It has similar behavior to Ganymede. Enormous tenacity and sillage, but it is not intrusive to the point of bothering those nearby.
Like a super elegant and mysterious person with a special aura that appears and all eyes turn to her as if by magic as she walks in silence. The perfume provides an exceptional quality and “magnetic” grandeur. However, the gaze goes into the distance and therefore the person does not notice the murmurs of admiration around them. You don't need to try to get noticed because you are naturally admired. In other words, it is a fragrance that is discreet because none of the notes are excessive.
Quentin Bisch unexpectedly manages to create an aroma to rival Ganymede at the top of the brand's perfume rankings.
A solar, optimistic creation that provokes a feeling of happiness. Like smiles on a calm summer afternoon or like the golden light of kisses emerging from the dark on a warm night.
I confess that I had some doubts because:
1 - In general, I don't like florals (especially rose and/or tuberose) with the exception of aromas with yellow wild flowers (immortelles, chamomile, gorse, broom).
2 – I'm always afraid of the aroma of excessive synthetic bombs dominating the fragrance.
Well, here was the exception that breaks the rule. It is IMHO a floral for both sexes and not a perfume dedicated to the female sex.
The flowers here are country, soft and fleeting.
Heliotrope (a powdery “vibe” reminiscent of almonds) dominates a little in the opening, but soon the broom takes over the olfactory landscape with the linden flower less prominent and in the background.
On the other hand, this fragrance also shows how Ambroxan can be well incorporated and with the appropriate percentage. An example that others should follow.
The perfume has 2 phases. The initial one is floral and lasts 1 to 2 hours. I confess that I didn't feel the lime mentioned on the MAB website.
Then in the 2nd phase Vetiver and wood dominate. The Vetiver is fabulous and reminds me of Encelade's Vetiver, which in turn reminded me of the great Vetiver from the middle of the last century and which I had never encountered again until this reunion in Encelade and Tilia.
It has similar behavior to Ganymede. Enormous tenacity and sillage, but it is not intrusive to the point of bothering those nearby.
Like a super elegant and mysterious person with a special aura that appears and all eyes turn to her as if by magic as she walks in silence. The perfume provides an exceptional quality and “magnetic” grandeur. However, the gaze goes into the distance and therefore the person does not notice the murmurs of admiration around them. You don't need to try to get noticed because you are naturally admired. In other words, it is a fragrance that is discreet because none of the notes are excessive.
Quentin Bisch unexpectedly manages to create an aroma to rival Ganymede at the top of the brand's perfume rankings.
A solar, optimistic creation that provokes a feeling of happiness. Like smiles on a calm summer afternoon or like the golden light of kisses emerging from the dark on a warm night.
Ddelicious Decadence
A limited edition (EDP) inspired by an Espresso Martini.
After a slightly “boozy” opening with a “chocolate” coffee aroma, there is mainly a dark musk / amber that I feel like a leather accord.
A leather accord reminiscent of Caron's Tabac Blond. In other words, a vintage leather that perhaps the authors called Decadence.
A Decadence that is very sensual and, progressively, addictive.
This was what I liked most.
It brought to mind the song "La Décadanse" by Serge Gainsbourg with Jane Birkin.
The scent skin is also delicious as the rough edges at the beginning disappear.
An interesting fragrance but not for everyone. Nothing easy and something to try before you buy.
After a slightly “boozy” opening with a “chocolate” coffee aroma, there is mainly a dark musk / amber that I feel like a leather accord.
A leather accord reminiscent of Caron's Tabac Blond. In other words, a vintage leather that perhaps the authors called Decadence.
A Decadence that is very sensual and, progressively, addictive.
This was what I liked most.
It brought to mind the song "La Décadanse" by Serge Gainsbourg with Jane Birkin.
The scent skin is also delicious as the rough edges at the beginning disappear.
An interesting fragrance but not for everyone. Nothing easy and something to try before you buy.
Summer scent
An orange-aromatic citrus fragrance that is far from a traditional chypre.
Although the juicy orange dominates all evolution it is not a linear EDP. It evolves with a complex structure like that of Azemour les Orangers. Although both are masterpieces, Chypre Azural is a far more a modern fragrance than Azemour les Orangers.
A beautiful fragrance with an orange note (super realistic).
It opens with the feeling of someone peeling an orange and feeling the micro droplets projected on your face when you highlight the inner, whitish side of the peel. It is therefore an intense, bright, fresh and green beginning caused by the aromatic note of tarragon.
Unlike many citrus aromas that seem to disappear quickly, the Chypre Azural orange remains evolving on the skin for many hours (about 12 hours).
It evolves slowly but always conferring sophistication and elegance.
After the opening there is a suggestion of wood under the orange; I assume it will be the patchouli that we don´t detect itself as conventional or typical. This note just underlines and expands the orange note which starts to change into something denser.
The Rose note doesn't feel isolated either. It too is subordinated to the orange but giving it a sweet and warm vibe.
Before entering the “drydown” (between the 5th and 6th hour) the ambergris accentuates the golden and soft textural quality. The citrus orange becomes more of an amber orange.
In other words, the fragrance evolves from a fresh and green start to a sweet, soft and warm orange.
This summer we imagine ourselves in the middle of an orange grove feeling the aroma of the juice of the delicious segments of a sweet orange that we bite with pleasure.
My citrus of choice for this summer's holidays.
Although the juicy orange dominates all evolution it is not a linear EDP. It evolves with a complex structure like that of Azemour les Orangers. Although both are masterpieces, Chypre Azural is a far more a modern fragrance than Azemour les Orangers.
A beautiful fragrance with an orange note (super realistic).
It opens with the feeling of someone peeling an orange and feeling the micro droplets projected on your face when you highlight the inner, whitish side of the peel. It is therefore an intense, bright, fresh and green beginning caused by the aromatic note of tarragon.
Unlike many citrus aromas that seem to disappear quickly, the Chypre Azural orange remains evolving on the skin for many hours (about 12 hours).
It evolves slowly but always conferring sophistication and elegance.
After the opening there is a suggestion of wood under the orange; I assume it will be the patchouli that we don´t detect itself as conventional or typical. This note just underlines and expands the orange note which starts to change into something denser.
The Rose note doesn't feel isolated either. It too is subordinated to the orange but giving it a sweet and warm vibe.
Before entering the “drydown” (between the 5th and 6th hour) the ambergris accentuates the golden and soft textural quality. The citrus orange becomes more of an amber orange.
In other words, the fragrance evolves from a fresh and green start to a sweet, soft and warm orange.
This summer we imagine ourselves in the middle of an orange grove feeling the aroma of the juice of the delicious segments of a sweet orange that we bite with pleasure.
My citrus of choice for this summer's holidays.
Gold over Blue
Quentin Birsh manages to perfect the first version of Ganymed. If the EDP version was already fabulous, Extrait is even more extraordinary. Denser, warmer. I found no difference in sillage or duration. It suits all seasons of the year. No aromachemical bombs to bother you.
He significantly toned down the floral side by removing the violet leaf and Osmanthus, adding Myrrh and Frankincense which further underline Immortelle's golden burst.
The end result is a simpler, more masculine, spicy and earthy fragrance. With direct entry to my Top 10 surpassing the EDP version.
I am an unconditional lover of the scent of Everlasting flowers.
Not because the Greeks used it to crown the images and statues of Apollo since the plant symbolized love. Just because of the beautiful and unforgettable olfactory memories that I associate with it.
When at the end of the afternoon I returned from the beach along the dunes of the Alentejo coast, in front of Pessegueiro Island (Porto Covo - Portugal), I was blessed by a warm breeze that carried the comforting smell, at the same time spicy and relaxing of the “ Immortelles” of small golden yellow flowers.
A natural and serene fragrance where we take refuge. A sea breeze with the scent of herbs and flowers.
At the end of the afternoon our skin becomes a field of "immortelles".
The return of a time when everything seemed to be fine in Nature and within us.
Gold over Blue.
He significantly toned down the floral side by removing the violet leaf and Osmanthus, adding Myrrh and Frankincense which further underline Immortelle's golden burst.
The end result is a simpler, more masculine, spicy and earthy fragrance. With direct entry to my Top 10 surpassing the EDP version.
I am an unconditional lover of the scent of Everlasting flowers.
Not because the Greeks used it to crown the images and statues of Apollo since the plant symbolized love. Just because of the beautiful and unforgettable olfactory memories that I associate with it.
When at the end of the afternoon I returned from the beach along the dunes of the Alentejo coast, in front of Pessegueiro Island (Porto Covo - Portugal), I was blessed by a warm breeze that carried the comforting smell, at the same time spicy and relaxing of the “ Immortelles” of small golden yellow flowers.
A natural and serene fragrance where we take refuge. A sea breeze with the scent of herbs and flowers.
At the end of the afternoon our skin becomes a field of "immortelles".
The return of a time when everything seemed to be fine in Nature and within us.
Gold over Blue.
2 Comments
