Viola8

The inspiration for this violet fragrance was more the small, inconspicuous violet that modestly grows even between cracks in stones, not a noble, vain, overbred variant. Since this violet has to assert itself to avoid being overlooked, the corresponding scent initially comes across as rather rough, strong, and oddly green with these fresh undertones. The other listed notes of jasmine and ylang-ylang don't really help here; only the rosewood I can clearly identify.

If you think that the violet here is just a phantom whose appearance you missed in that one second, you just need to wait a bit. The violet note becomes increasingly stronger, elegant, powdery, and also slightly sweet. However, this sweetness comes without any candy-like stickiness or Victorian opulence. The violet scents itself by the asphalt path, thus creating a connection between urbanity and nature. Who would have thought that this initially small green violet would develop into such a charming and mature fragrance, a scent that, despite its style, never forgets its inherent earthiness.

Kerbside Violet is somehow a typical Lush scent and yet not. Undoubtedly, it is very wearable and for me one of the most beautiful fragrances from the current Volume-3 range, which definitely deserves a regular release. So far, the scent is only available at the Gorilla shop in London/Islington and at Lush in Poole.

A few words of remembrance for one of the most beautiful and above all authentic honeysuckle scents I have encountered.. Full, lush, floral with the honeysuckle's very own, almost nectar-like honey sweetness, yet bright, friendly, and somehow "refreshing." Those who are already looking forward to burying their nose in a real honeysuckle blossom next summer during this winter are exactly right with this highly concentrated and long-lasting version from the bottle.

There are many scents with honeysuckle, often just as one note among many, but here it is the main actor. This is something that the still appreciated "Le Chèvrefeuille" by Annick Goutal does not achieve, beautiful but not as naturalistically captured.

When was Chèvrefeuille/Honeysuckle available? I can only say that I bought my 5 ml bottle of Extrait de Parfum in 1998 in London (there was a series with other scents in the same packaging, but I don't remember any other names). By at least sometime in 1999 (or in 2000?), this series was no longer available, and then the line "The Gardens Of L'Occitane" was offered. From that series with some truly beautiful scents, "Tilleul/Chèvrefeuille" naturally served as a "replacement scent," although the honeysuckle together with the well-captured linden blossom note takes on a different character.

It's wonderful that thanks to Parfumo and research, another truly memorable scent has been preserved from complete oblivion.

What can you expect from a fragrance called Death & Decay? It’s better not to imagine it. This bold naming becomes more understandable when you know the complete motto of this year's release Volume 3 from Gorilla Perfume, which is Death, Decay & Renewal. Alongside death and decay, comforting renewal is also offered, representing the eternal cycle of nature.

At the temporary Gorilla Gallery in July 2014 in London, Death & Decay was impressively presented right at the beginning of the exhibition. One walked through a long dark corridor bathed entirely in red light (red light?), where the gaze fell upon white burning candles, white flowers forming the words Death and Decay, and a large classical amphora on a pedestal adorned with a bouquet of lilies. This scene was accompanied by beautiful sacred music and the enchanting scent of lilies. Olfactorily, thankfully, death and decay were not represented here, but rather the classic flowers associated with churches and funerals. Lush's intention to play with false expectations and instead offer something beautiful and comforting has succeeded here, allowing one to breathe a sigh of relief.

However, this lily scent is not entirely innocent. In addition to unnamed ingredients, Ylang Ylang, Damask Rose, Jasmine, and Tonka are listed, all of which are quite "sensual" ingredients. According to an employee of the Gorilla Gallery, the impression of lush lilies on the verge of tipping over is intended, but only just on the verge. I cannot confirm this somewhat negative aspect; for me, it remains a beautiful floral scent with a slight creaminess.

Death & Decay is not a pure "soliflore" lily scent, though. At first, I sense a similarity to lily of the valley, then definitely to jasmine. This can likely be explained not only by the jasmine oil used but also by the significant amount of the chemical fragrance compound Indole, which occurs in small quantities in natural jasmine oil. It is a polarizing fragrance compound that is also found in human sweat, and it requires precise dosing to be perceived positively. Fortunately, this has succeeded for me. Anyone who enjoyed the similarly indole-heavy jasmine scent "Lust" from Lush should definitely try Death & Decay.

That Death & Decay is only offered in a pipette bottle is something I, as a fan of spray bottles, do not consider a disadvantage this time. The scent is very long-lasting and so concentrated that one can also perfume generously in this way. However, it is only suitable for everyday wear with a sparing dosage.

So here at Gorilla Perfume, death and decay smell floral-sensual-opulent and very lively.

Bergamot Blossom always brings a delighted smile to my face right after spraying it on. Alongside other citrus fruits, the bergamot is immediately present and lasts all the way to the late dry down. Despite the name, I can't imagine that the blossoms were used here, as the scent is typically derived from the peels of the bergamot. The name likely hints at the inherent floral quality of bergamot, a floral aspect that is further supported by neroli.

Allspice, pepper, and thyme as spicy and herbal notes? It seems to me that a hint of lavender (or perhaps rosemary) has been used for rounding out the composition. Overall, it remains bergamot-heavy, citrusy-floral in perfect balance with a warmer base of moss-musk cushions that completely avoids vanilla and sweetness. It's nice that the citrus notes, as is often the case with other Cologne-inspired scents (especially those with orange oil), do not fade into the base.

Although there is no black tea aroma involved, Bergamot Blossom should appeal to anyone who appreciates Earl Grey tea for its bergamot scent. The longevity is incredibly good for the genre, although the sillage is not outstanding.

Actually, I don't want to analyze and dissect Bergamot Blossom; I just want to enjoy, admire, dream, relax, and at the same time recharge my energy. I give it a perfect 100%.

The name Poppy Rouge was taken, according to D.S. & Durga, from a song I am not familiar with, in which an immoral unmarried woman prepares for a night on the town with her rosy red garter belt, bright poppy rouge, and turkey red bloomers (or something like that... see "a loose married woman prepares for a night on the town in her rosy red garters, bright poppy rouge and turkey red bloomers").

While Poppy Rouge does not smell wild and dangerous, nor surprising, it would indeed be fitting for this or a similar scene. I instantly think of dance parties with gin and 1920s flapper dresses. All of this fits a classic scent that could have existed in earlier decades. A current comparison that comes to mind is "Grand Neroli" by Atelier Cologne, which however deserves the name Cologne more in character.

The orange blossom predominantly dominates with its delicate floral notes and light freshness, intoxicatingly beautiful. Other players include the Parma violet and the daffodil variety Jonquille with their green, lush nuances, but they do not reveal themselves distinctly; rather, they harmoniously round off the overall picture. The base note also remains light without the heaviness of musk and vanilla. A cheerful orange blossom scent, perfectly composed in its clarity.

I believe that a lot of natural ingredients have been used, as the naturally occurring scent experience cannot be explained otherwise. This is also supported by the fact that at D.S. & Durga, as a small personally run company, each box is still handwritten with the corresponding batch number. My bottle has the batch number F3. The longevity of the Eau de Parfum is very enduring.

To ensure it’s not all positive, I must criticize the pricing. 30 ml of Eau de Parfum costs a hefty GBP 76.00, which unfortunately only applies to the scents that are more associated with women. Although the company generally declares all scents as unisex, there are classifications regarding feminine or masculine on their own homepage. And lo and behold, with the more masculine scents, you get a 50 ml bottle for the same price! That’s not what equality looks like.