Wombatkönig
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Wombatkönig
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From disappointed expectations
APOM - I wanted you so badly.
And yet you disappoint me. Every time anew. And not even because you are a bad fragrance. You are "my" prime example of completely different expectations based on the fragrance pyramid.
What I expected:
A really fresh citrusy summer scent with a slightly sweet twist
What I got:
A (honey) sweet scent with a citrus-floral twist
It is now idle to discuss whether I myself am to blame for these false expectations or not.
In any case, it is not possible for me to befriend me with this - my expectations so missing fragrance image - although it smells quite not bad.
For me, the fragrance triggers a slightly oppressive sensation (probably by the sweetness), whereby I see the fragrance also not in summer or warmer temperatures, but still most likely in the transitional months.
For me, by the way, APOM knows a clear parallel to Versace's "The Dreamer", if you mentally exchange the orange blossom for the tobacco blossom. (Yes, the Dreamer is still a bit sweeter.)
Too bad, but here are irreconcilable differences and there helps only one thing: divorce!
And yet you disappoint me. Every time anew. And not even because you are a bad fragrance. You are "my" prime example of completely different expectations based on the fragrance pyramid.
What I expected:
A really fresh citrusy summer scent with a slightly sweet twist
What I got:
A (honey) sweet scent with a citrus-floral twist
It is now idle to discuss whether I myself am to blame for these false expectations or not.
In any case, it is not possible for me to befriend me with this - my expectations so missing fragrance image - although it smells quite not bad.
For me, the fragrance triggers a slightly oppressive sensation (probably by the sweetness), whereby I see the fragrance also not in summer or warmer temperatures, but still most likely in the transitional months.
For me, by the way, APOM knows a clear parallel to Versace's "The Dreamer", if you mentally exchange the orange blossom for the tobacco blossom. (Yes, the Dreamer is still a bit sweeter.)
Too bad, but here are irreconcilable differences and there helps only one thing: divorce!
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When one spray is too much
You usually spray yourself from head to toe 16 times?
A real scent progression is not so important, if the fragrance itself is already good?
Your perfume from Monday you should still smell on Saturday?
Then you are right here!
This somewhat disparaging introduction is unfair, because the fragrance is really beautiful. But just unfortunately also so accurate!
Today it was again so far. My "Oud Satin Mood" came to use. For the first time in 2021. ONE spray. Shortly I had considered to spray again, because the first push did not hit properly. Praise be to the great perfumo - I didn't.
"Oud Satin Mood is, in theory, a beautiful scent. Sweet roses caress the wearer like a noble velvet. From the oud - as I know it from other fragrances and mostly reject - I perceive nothing here. Most likely somewhere in the floral-woody base. A unique, sweet-floral symphony of perfumery. I once read here the great comparison that OSM - also created by the admirable Francis Kurkdjian - is the Le Male of today. I find this thought really very beautiful, apt and associate it whenever my gaze falls on the bottle.
When spraying - the whole apartment smells like OSM - and in the first hour I'm really excited and ask myself why I do not wear OSM more often?!
The day passes and the answer dawns on me: "Oud Satin Mood" is there. Present. Minute by minute, hour by hour. Merciless. Persistent. Unrelenting. Without a trace of weakness. You might even say pushy.
I'm annoyed. Feel increasingly uncomfortable. Wish I had chosen a different scent.
It is unfortunately so: by this intangible performance, he becomes almost unwearable for me.
"Oud Satin Mood is just too much (for me). I didn't think I'd criticize a perfume for being too long lasting/silky, you can adjust the dosage accordingly. But when ONE single spray is enough to make me lose my senses, I have to capitulate. And that's a real shame, because the fragrance itself would be so beautiful....
New attempt probably only in autumn 2022!
A real scent progression is not so important, if the fragrance itself is already good?
Your perfume from Monday you should still smell on Saturday?
Then you are right here!
This somewhat disparaging introduction is unfair, because the fragrance is really beautiful. But just unfortunately also so accurate!
Today it was again so far. My "Oud Satin Mood" came to use. For the first time in 2021. ONE spray. Shortly I had considered to spray again, because the first push did not hit properly. Praise be to the great perfumo - I didn't.
"Oud Satin Mood is, in theory, a beautiful scent. Sweet roses caress the wearer like a noble velvet. From the oud - as I know it from other fragrances and mostly reject - I perceive nothing here. Most likely somewhere in the floral-woody base. A unique, sweet-floral symphony of perfumery. I once read here the great comparison that OSM - also created by the admirable Francis Kurkdjian - is the Le Male of today. I find this thought really very beautiful, apt and associate it whenever my gaze falls on the bottle.
When spraying - the whole apartment smells like OSM - and in the first hour I'm really excited and ask myself why I do not wear OSM more often?!
The day passes and the answer dawns on me: "Oud Satin Mood" is there. Present. Minute by minute, hour by hour. Merciless. Persistent. Unrelenting. Without a trace of weakness. You might even say pushy.
I'm annoyed. Feel increasingly uncomfortable. Wish I had chosen a different scent.
It is unfortunately so: by this intangible performance, he becomes almost unwearable for me.
"Oud Satin Mood is just too much (for me). I didn't think I'd criticize a perfume for being too long lasting/silky, you can adjust the dosage accordingly. But when ONE single spray is enough to make me lose my senses, I have to capitulate. And that's a real shame, because the fragrance itself would be so beautiful....
New attempt probably only in autumn 2022!
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Unsweet summer
Since "Believing" has left me today, I would like to dedicate a few lines to him as a farewell.
Because the fragrance is good. He is totally exceptional, I have never smelled something like this before.
Very cool, completely unsweet flowers. At the same time somehow after still waters.
Parsley flashes briefly. Bright floral spiciness really hits the spot.
The Extrait has thereby not the slightest hint of sweetness, with a wine one would say dust-dry.
"Believing" I feel as clean as freshly washed and at the same time by the unsweetness something earthy / green and very natural.
H/S: I was with other "Phuong Dang" fragrances (measured by the concentration Extrait de Parfum) but quite disappointed - since many EdTs last longer. Here the performance is really good for a fresh fragrance and even small amounts are very intense perceptible.
Bought and worn for the first time I have him last winter. At the most inconvenient time.
On that day, I just thought to myself, I would now much rather smell like something sweet, cuddly and warm.
So "Believing" was put away for now; with the note in the back of my mind that if I'm in the right mood, I'll have to wear it again on a hot day.
Still, it's going to leave me now. The spark has unfortunately not gone over even now in the summer. Probably since I with the complete absence of sweetness, do not quite get along.
Really convinced of my decision I am not...maybe I'll buy me back a bottling sometime.
For the moment, I wish the new owner but quite a lot of joy!
Because for the summer ""Believing" is really interesting. A beautiful fragrance like a day at the lake!
Because the fragrance is good. He is totally exceptional, I have never smelled something like this before.
Very cool, completely unsweet flowers. At the same time somehow after still waters.
Parsley flashes briefly. Bright floral spiciness really hits the spot.
The Extrait has thereby not the slightest hint of sweetness, with a wine one would say dust-dry.
"Believing" I feel as clean as freshly washed and at the same time by the unsweetness something earthy / green and very natural.
H/S: I was with other "Phuong Dang" fragrances (measured by the concentration Extrait de Parfum) but quite disappointed - since many EdTs last longer. Here the performance is really good for a fresh fragrance and even small amounts are very intense perceptible.
Bought and worn for the first time I have him last winter. At the most inconvenient time.
On that day, I just thought to myself, I would now much rather smell like something sweet, cuddly and warm.
So "Believing" was put away for now; with the note in the back of my mind that if I'm in the right mood, I'll have to wear it again on a hot day.
Still, it's going to leave me now. The spark has unfortunately not gone over even now in the summer. Probably since I with the complete absence of sweetness, do not quite get along.
Really convinced of my decision I am not...maybe I'll buy me back a bottling sometime.
For the moment, I wish the new owner but quite a lot of joy!
Because for the summer ""Believing" is really interesting. A beautiful fragrance like a day at the lake!
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Fragrance is not enough
"Messe de Minuit" recently came into my possession, blindly and as an impulse buy, during a shopping spree, because of the reasonable price.
At home first looked here, what I have actually brought me into the house: Auweia....Schon the name....Church, sacral.... i would have chosen better French in school.
Then also the classification as "spicy-smoky", the fragrance notes and extremely mixed reviews.
After I have resisted the first impulse to resell him unsprührt, "Messe de Minuit" was first put in the corner.
Today I sat through home office and waiting for a technician all day at home and am in a bad mood. Since now also the miserable weather prevented my planned foray through local perfumeries and thus the last spark of joy, today was the day. I had nothing left to lose. Brave grip him the corner. Here we go.
First associations: Cold bath, ginger (candies) and an unusual but not bad citrusy prelude. The prelude is citrusy-sweet, as I find not at all pungent.
"Messe de Minuit" is from the first moment clearly sweeter than I expected, the sweetness here is pleasantly round and not at all sticky. Like a nice spoonful of forest honey.
Even if it is not in the fragrance pyramid, I always imagine to smell out some ginger or its sharpness. The only thing here (incense) smoky is some incense; Since I expected more evil.
The scent is overall very natural, round and actually also very valuable.
"Messe de Minuit" has surprised me positively, even as I had feared him much more nasty and dusty. Probably he will leave me but still soon again.
"Messe de Minuit" is a fragrant little water. The question that remains in the end, however, is whether I want to smell like this.
It is as so often with Etro, it is shown that something goes and also craft impressive. Who comes on the idea to create a perfume after car tires? It has succeeded impressively with "Gomma". That's exactly how it is here. "Messe de Minuit" smells like midnight mass. DOT.
But - and this is a big "but" - ultimately a fragrance that can be worn on people has to come out, not an interesting studio fragrance. And that moves with such conceptions into the background. Many people will therefore probably not like such fragrances and the opportunities to wear them are even rarer. I would wear "Messe de Minuit" in any case twice a year, at Easter and Christmas - into the midnight mass.
Still, there's a happy ending: my wife - ignorant of the name - immediately said, accurately, "Church!" (Okay, we'll keep quiet about the accompanying snort, otherwise it wouldn't be a happy ending...)
Etro has thus achieved what they wanted - unfortunately at the price of everyday intolerance.
At home first looked here, what I have actually brought me into the house: Auweia....Schon the name....Church, sacral.... i would have chosen better French in school.
Then also the classification as "spicy-smoky", the fragrance notes and extremely mixed reviews.
After I have resisted the first impulse to resell him unsprührt, "Messe de Minuit" was first put in the corner.
Today I sat through home office and waiting for a technician all day at home and am in a bad mood. Since now also the miserable weather prevented my planned foray through local perfumeries and thus the last spark of joy, today was the day. I had nothing left to lose. Brave grip him the corner. Here we go.
First associations: Cold bath, ginger (candies) and an unusual but not bad citrusy prelude. The prelude is citrusy-sweet, as I find not at all pungent.
"Messe de Minuit" is from the first moment clearly sweeter than I expected, the sweetness here is pleasantly round and not at all sticky. Like a nice spoonful of forest honey.
Even if it is not in the fragrance pyramid, I always imagine to smell out some ginger or its sharpness. The only thing here (incense) smoky is some incense; Since I expected more evil.
The scent is overall very natural, round and actually also very valuable.
"Messe de Minuit" has surprised me positively, even as I had feared him much more nasty and dusty. Probably he will leave me but still soon again.
"Messe de Minuit" is a fragrant little water. The question that remains in the end, however, is whether I want to smell like this.
It is as so often with Etro, it is shown that something goes and also craft impressive. Who comes on the idea to create a perfume after car tires? It has succeeded impressively with "Gomma". That's exactly how it is here. "Messe de Minuit" smells like midnight mass. DOT.
But - and this is a big "but" - ultimately a fragrance that can be worn on people has to come out, not an interesting studio fragrance. And that moves with such conceptions into the background. Many people will therefore probably not like such fragrances and the opportunities to wear them are even rarer. I would wear "Messe de Minuit" in any case twice a year, at Easter and Christmas - into the midnight mass.
Still, there's a happy ending: my wife - ignorant of the name - immediately said, accurately, "Church!" (Okay, we'll keep quiet about the accompanying snort, otherwise it wouldn't be a happy ending...)
Etro has thus achieved what they wanted - unfortunately at the price of everyday intolerance.
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Insight (incl. a short comparison to the EdT)
I'm a collector. Always have been. And will probably remain so, to the chagrin of my bank account. Especially since I also still want the best.
...and speaking of confessions: I also still tend to buy perfume blindly.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian:
Such an interesting brand from a great perfumer - the creator of the legendary "Le Mâle", a perfume that almost everyone knows. A master of the craft on the pulse of time. Releases niche under his own name, free of the constraints and shackles of contract work. Outgrown the designer segment. What a story! In addition, these beautiful simple flacons - lined up in the perfume shelf a real eye-catcher!
All this leads to the short circuit in my collector brain: I want them all! And I currently have them, too, in large part. Yet.
But regularly comes with a new bottle also a new disappointment. Was I before on the basis of the ingredients and the statements and reviews here but so sure that I will certainly like the fragrance...if I'm honest, but that is recently only in the fewest cases so. A short selection:
- "APOM Homme" - I had expected much fresher
- "Baccarat Rouge 540 EdP" - Sticky sweetness that is hardly wearable for me
- "Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait" - Already better and as I find also a tad less sticky. But would I have bought or even kept the fragrance if it were from another brand and not in this damn beautiful red cube?
- "Aqua Universalis forte" and "Aqua Vitae forte" - Both have a strong cream note that makes them unwearable for me. If I'm completely honest I do not understand who stands on something like that (No offense!)
- "Oud Silk Mood Extrait" - A beautiful natural rose. But that should really be all? And do I need that as a man in this strength?
- The highly praised "Lumière Noire Homme" here - Well - you may forgive me - but if I am completely honest with you and myself: It certainly does not smell unpleasant, but great or even extraordinary I do not find him.
It took me after these past disappointments quite a bit to suppress my collection reflex and the discontinued "Absolue Pour Le Matin" not at the appropriate opportunity (blind of course) to buy on eBay. Even for me, it was clear here that another cream scent wasn't going to be right for me.....But that beautiful bottle? It would look so good in my collection! And besides, it's discontinued so it's rare! Who knows when the opportunity will come again? NO! FINISH! The matter is decided! IT. WILL. NOT. PURCHASED.
Let's - after that far too long introduction - finally get down to business, the "Aqua Celestia" (if anyone has even read this far):
I had the EdT, 200 ml of the pleasant Plörre - I probably would not have used up in four lives, but that's another problem again.
The EdT is nice. It has an unusual but great minty opening. Unfortunately, this fades far too quickly and gives way to a floral, slightly sweet freshness.
Durability and sillage, however, unfortunately leave much to be desired, I take the fragrance unusually quickly no longer was, my environment also not. After three hours, the EdT has already become very quiet.
I have now recently given the EdT, because it must of course be the maximum again. So the "forte" version. Of course. The best for me. (Spoiler: This was not very wise without first testing the "forte")
"forte" is here. Confident of victory, I tear open the foil, get the bottle out of the oversized package (I liked the old small packages much better). Immediately I have the beautiful fragrance of the EdT in stronger and more durable I think. I spray.
Shock. Where's the mint? WHERE'S THE FUCKING MINT??? It's not there.
Instead, a very strong and pungent citrus (cleanser) freshness rises to my nose, which lasts a good 30 minutes in this form. Even after that, it remains present over the entire course of the fragrance. (Had only the mint of the EdT held out so long....)
What comes after is unfortunately not much better. To the citrus notes comes the same cream note which is already known from "Aqua Universalis forte" and "Aqua Vitae forte" to it. One could say the series should not be called "forte" but "cream"!
"Aqua Celestia forte" is thus for me the opposite of fresh and clean. One could say with the cream one has reached the maximum unfreshness of a citrus fragrance.
Bright spot is that again and again also the florality of the EdT flashes and "forte" so at least brings a bit of similarity to the EdT.
In comparison, the EdT is able to convince with its bombastic mint note in the opening, followed by pleasant fresh and slightly sweet florality. Through this it is great for the summer. Only it is a bit too feminine for me, whereas I am otherwise hard-boiled, many niche women's fragrances for quite unisex suitable and wear them. Unfortunately, as already mentioned above - the durability of the EdT is clearly too low, even for a fresh summer fragrance.
But I would like to be quite emphatic: Who - like me - believes with "forte" to get a fragrance equal or very similar to the EdT and stronger perfume for it, the mistaken!
Conclusion:
I'm sorry. As much as I wanted to like "forte". Really. I wanted it - if only for the sake of the bottle. But I can't force it. I have to admit it to myself. I don't like it at all. The hard truth is, I find Aqua Celestia forte really unpleasant. I haven't felt this uncomfortable with a fragrance sprayed on in a very long time. I felt like a walking toilet stone. I was slightly sick all day and I was glad when it went in the evening under the shower.
"Aqua Celestia forte" has that cream note again, which makes it hard for me to wear or endure on myself as a man. This mix with the citrus notes then makes it even worse. This is "forte" by the unsweet and dominant citrus note from my point of view actually rather a men's fragrance, at least much more than the EdT.
So it is unfortunately also no consolation that durability and sillage are really good and three sprays over the whole day are enough.
What about me? What do I do now with my collecting passion?
As much as I wished. MFK is not "my" brand, the fragrances as made for me komponiert. Too often I was disappointed, the fragrance not exceptional and innovative enough or simply not as hoped. Francis Kurkdjian and I do not understand each other blindly. I appreciate him very much and find his work and his brand very exciting. Nevertheless, I don't like every single one of his creations. That would also be - as I now realize - utopian and far too unreflective.
So I stay with the MFKs that I really like, such as "masculin Pluriel", "Oud Satin Mood Extrait" "Amyris Homme" and the two "Gentle fluidity".
And I really need to stop buying perfumes by brand and bottle, because it's going through the roof with Penhaligon's portraits right now.
Also, I test in the future before buying. Because neither a beautiful bottle nor the enthusiasm for a brand bring me further in the end. In the end, it depends but only on the inner values: The fragrance.
I hope I remain steadfast and have learned my lesson.
...and speaking of confessions: I also still tend to buy perfume blindly.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian:
Such an interesting brand from a great perfumer - the creator of the legendary "Le Mâle", a perfume that almost everyone knows. A master of the craft on the pulse of time. Releases niche under his own name, free of the constraints and shackles of contract work. Outgrown the designer segment. What a story! In addition, these beautiful simple flacons - lined up in the perfume shelf a real eye-catcher!
All this leads to the short circuit in my collector brain: I want them all! And I currently have them, too, in large part. Yet.
But regularly comes with a new bottle also a new disappointment. Was I before on the basis of the ingredients and the statements and reviews here but so sure that I will certainly like the fragrance...if I'm honest, but that is recently only in the fewest cases so. A short selection:
- "APOM Homme" - I had expected much fresher
- "Baccarat Rouge 540 EdP" - Sticky sweetness that is hardly wearable for me
- "Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait" - Already better and as I find also a tad less sticky. But would I have bought or even kept the fragrance if it were from another brand and not in this damn beautiful red cube?
- "Aqua Universalis forte" and "Aqua Vitae forte" - Both have a strong cream note that makes them unwearable for me. If I'm completely honest I do not understand who stands on something like that (No offense!)
- "Oud Silk Mood Extrait" - A beautiful natural rose. But that should really be all? And do I need that as a man in this strength?
- The highly praised "Lumière Noire Homme" here - Well - you may forgive me - but if I am completely honest with you and myself: It certainly does not smell unpleasant, but great or even extraordinary I do not find him.
It took me after these past disappointments quite a bit to suppress my collection reflex and the discontinued "Absolue Pour Le Matin" not at the appropriate opportunity (blind of course) to buy on eBay. Even for me, it was clear here that another cream scent wasn't going to be right for me.....But that beautiful bottle? It would look so good in my collection! And besides, it's discontinued so it's rare! Who knows when the opportunity will come again? NO! FINISH! The matter is decided! IT. WILL. NOT. PURCHASED.
Let's - after that far too long introduction - finally get down to business, the "Aqua Celestia" (if anyone has even read this far):
I had the EdT, 200 ml of the pleasant Plörre - I probably would not have used up in four lives, but that's another problem again.
The EdT is nice. It has an unusual but great minty opening. Unfortunately, this fades far too quickly and gives way to a floral, slightly sweet freshness.
Durability and sillage, however, unfortunately leave much to be desired, I take the fragrance unusually quickly no longer was, my environment also not. After three hours, the EdT has already become very quiet.
I have now recently given the EdT, because it must of course be the maximum again. So the "forte" version. Of course. The best for me. (Spoiler: This was not very wise without first testing the "forte")
"forte" is here. Confident of victory, I tear open the foil, get the bottle out of the oversized package (I liked the old small packages much better). Immediately I have the beautiful fragrance of the EdT in stronger and more durable I think. I spray.
Shock. Where's the mint? WHERE'S THE FUCKING MINT??? It's not there.
Instead, a very strong and pungent citrus (cleanser) freshness rises to my nose, which lasts a good 30 minutes in this form. Even after that, it remains present over the entire course of the fragrance. (Had only the mint of the EdT held out so long....)
What comes after is unfortunately not much better. To the citrus notes comes the same cream note which is already known from "Aqua Universalis forte" and "Aqua Vitae forte" to it. One could say the series should not be called "forte" but "cream"!
"Aqua Celestia forte" is thus for me the opposite of fresh and clean. One could say with the cream one has reached the maximum unfreshness of a citrus fragrance.
Bright spot is that again and again also the florality of the EdT flashes and "forte" so at least brings a bit of similarity to the EdT.
In comparison, the EdT is able to convince with its bombastic mint note in the opening, followed by pleasant fresh and slightly sweet florality. Through this it is great for the summer. Only it is a bit too feminine for me, whereas I am otherwise hard-boiled, many niche women's fragrances for quite unisex suitable and wear them. Unfortunately, as already mentioned above - the durability of the EdT is clearly too low, even for a fresh summer fragrance.
But I would like to be quite emphatic: Who - like me - believes with "forte" to get a fragrance equal or very similar to the EdT and stronger perfume for it, the mistaken!
Conclusion:
I'm sorry. As much as I wanted to like "forte". Really. I wanted it - if only for the sake of the bottle. But I can't force it. I have to admit it to myself. I don't like it at all. The hard truth is, I find Aqua Celestia forte really unpleasant. I haven't felt this uncomfortable with a fragrance sprayed on in a very long time. I felt like a walking toilet stone. I was slightly sick all day and I was glad when it went in the evening under the shower.
"Aqua Celestia forte" has that cream note again, which makes it hard for me to wear or endure on myself as a man. This mix with the citrus notes then makes it even worse. This is "forte" by the unsweet and dominant citrus note from my point of view actually rather a men's fragrance, at least much more than the EdT.
So it is unfortunately also no consolation that durability and sillage are really good and three sprays over the whole day are enough.
What about me? What do I do now with my collecting passion?
As much as I wished. MFK is not "my" brand, the fragrances as made for me komponiert. Too often I was disappointed, the fragrance not exceptional and innovative enough or simply not as hoped. Francis Kurkdjian and I do not understand each other blindly. I appreciate him very much and find his work and his brand very exciting. Nevertheless, I don't like every single one of his creations. That would also be - as I now realize - utopian and far too unreflective.
So I stay with the MFKs that I really like, such as "masculin Pluriel", "Oud Satin Mood Extrait" "Amyris Homme" and the two "Gentle fluidity".
And I really need to stop buying perfumes by brand and bottle, because it's going through the roof with Penhaligon's portraits right now.
Also, I test in the future before buying. Because neither a beautiful bottle nor the enthusiasm for a brand bring me further in the end. In the end, it depends but only on the inner values: The fragrance.
I hope I remain steadfast and have learned my lesson.
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