My first impression of this fragrance in 2014 was: "Nah, too spicy and brute for a citrus scent!"
At some point, something clicked and I understood the fragrance, so to speak. I was helped by the tip from Apicius, who identified an unspecified cardamom note. That was the information my brain needed to unlock this fragrance with relish.
I find the fragrance concept of a bitter-sour grapefruit refreshment paired with mentholated, slightly sweet and stirring cardamom, which finally leads into ambery oakmoss (in the style of
Pour Monsieur Eau de Toilette Concentrée), simply brilliant.
And courageous. However, this fragrance also requires courage from its wearer. Because, as numerous negative ratings, reviews and statements show, this fragrance is highly polarizing. Some noses even find it unpleasantly animalic.
I can understand the rejection and criticism. The fragrance does indeed teeter on the edge of the abyss. But it doesn't fall over the cliff for my nose. And that's exactly when I wear this fragrance, and not just for myself: when I want to push the boundaries of good taste. I whisper olfactorily to those around me: "Oh, you don't like this fragrance? No problem, I like it. I think it's excellent and brilliant. And I stand by that."
Don't get me wrong, this fragrance is not a "stinker". If I want to be really provocative, I go for fragrances like
Yatagan Eau de Toilette or
Azzaro pour Homme Eau de Toilette or an oud "stinker" like "Shatha al Oudh | Rasasi"). These fragrances are a major imposition for modern or normal noses. With "Citrus paradisi", on the other hand, I believe that anyone could like this fragrance in principle if they tune into a triad of grapefruit, cardamom and oakmoss.
Just as you have to tune in to a sophisticated opera and not enjoy it via earplugs on the side. In this sense, I consider "Citrus paradisi" to be a "serious" fragrance that does not serve as harmless, trivial entertainment. Enjoyment here is reserved for the connoisseur.
Memo's
African Leather Eau de Parfum can also be irritating or even repulsive at first. That's how I felt. Until you understand or realize that it is mainly cardamom that determines the opening. Once I got this snippet of information, I was able to get into the fragrance and appreciate it. (I didn't find the African leather quite so great after all; that's why I only bought a fragrance inspired by it.)
In English, my admiration for "Citrus paradisi" is called an "acquired taste". You can't just love it without prior knowledge. You have to approach it, learn to love it! And the best way to do this is with the knowledge of cardamom.
But then, at least for old-schoolers, the path to uninhibited and unadulterated enjoyment of this courageous masterpiece should be clear. Don't be put off by the current subterranean fragrance rating of 5.9, but only dare to make a blind purchase if you are a die-hard fan of fragrances from the 80s or 90s!
I wish all wearers of this fragrance that they will have a lot of fun with it themselves and that they will meet open-minded (or at least indulgent...) noses in their environment!