Iris from Europe 2008

Elysium
08.04.2019 - 10:14 AM
2
Helpful Review
7
Bottle
6
Sillage
6
Longevity
8
Scent

Raiders of the Lost Iris

A few years ago, I added a couple of Alviero Martini's gems to my growing collection, the dark GeoBlack and the tender GeoWhite for Man. But it was only the last summer that I came across the Essenze di Viaggio collection, being Iris from Europe one of them. Actually, I met Incenso from Asia first, but it was the last bottle on the shelf and I kindly gave in to a friend of mine. However, I was lucky enough to find both Iris and Incenso online, tester bottles, and now they're mine.

I must admit that I was surprised when I sprayed Iris on my skin. I mean, I was expecting the well-known iris powdery vibe, but the amazing aroma was everything but powdery. There is no hint of Dior Homme, Infusion d'Iris, or Bois d'Iris vibe in there, anyway, the freshness, clearness, and airiness of the scent astonished me. Iris from Europe opens with a blast of citrus sweet aroma, the lemon and the kumquat, a bite-sized citrus fruit, dominate the scene. These zesty fruits are sugared by the presence of the fruity kiwi, freshly cut kiwi that smells citrusy and light, with a touch of sweetness. The overall redolence is invigorating, so fresh, airy, cool for awakening the senses on a springtime morning.

When that brilliant zestiness calms down, a floral heart blooms. Lily-of-the-valley is the queen note, with its delicate white aroma, reinforced by the incredibly intense aroma of the Jasmine Sambac, that is very floral, yet more musky and masculine than the Jasmine Grandiflorum. Maybe, this jasmine type turns the scent into a genderless and even manly cologne. What about the iris note? Well, no matter how much I've waited, to me the iris does not come to the forefront. You could be a raider of the lost iris and won't find it ever. And I am not anosmic to the iris note, given that I immediately recognize it among tons of mixed notes. There is no lipstick, make-up, powdery, or buttery feel in there, which lets me down a bit, yet the overall fragrance is so lovely.

The heart is brave and lasts quite a few hours before the drydown notes come in the foreground. Misty vetiver and woody blue cedar create a dreamy vibe, neither too earthy nor too ligneous. The creamy musk stays close to skin fixing the final notes for the whole day.

My two cents. The fragrance is fair enough to be worn at the office, or on a leisure weekend out, daytime is recommended, yet it won't be unseemly for late afternoon and evening, definitely not for a night out or clubbing. Too weak for both cold and hot seasons, it performs the best in springtime or late summer and beginning of fall. To me, it is a genderless frag, don't care about the women target. If I had to compare it with other men's cologne, I would say that it belong to the same class of Kenzo Air, CK Truth, and Boss Pure just to mention a few.

-Elysium
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