4
A Departure, Yet Beautiful
UPDATE 2024-11-25:
I originally reviewed the perfume from a perfumer's batch 5ml sample while waiting for my full bottle — which most probably comes from the second batch. While the perfume in my bottle is very similar to the sample I tested, it differs in a few key ways.
Firstly, it is seems that the candy-like brightness from the top has been, sadly, noticeably dulled. Secondly, there's now a much more prominent rubbery note in the heart which, at times, takes over the whole composition. This could however be my nose acting up, so there's that.
Finally, and maybe most importantly, the concoction in my full bottle does not last as long as the sample did. Moreover, I now get oddly nose-blind to it, catching whiffs of the perfume here and there for the next few hours after spraying — as opposed to the near constant pleasant bubble the sample used to envelop me in. This usually happens for me when there's a greater portion of synthetic amber materials present in a perfume, but I'm not a good nose, so take this remark as a pure guess and add a big pinch of salt to it.
I'll let the bottle rest for a few months and come back to it to update this review then. However, considering it's supposedly already been maturing and macerating for 6 months, I'm a bit skeptical that much will improve. While I still really like the perfume — and people have been unusually curious and complimentary about it — my non-perfumer's batch full bottle feels in some key ways like a different product compared to the sample I tested extensively a month ago.
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ORIGINAL REVIEW:
Upon spraying Outlands for the first time, there was no question about it: I wasn’t immediately captivated and, while I thought the scent was pleasant, I found it a tad trite, oddly reminiscent of bubblegum, and ultimately unnecessary for my fragrance collection. I’m not sure what changed, but after wearing it on several occasions over the past few weeks, I can’t for the life of me figure out why I smelled what I smelled back then seeing how it now reads completely differently to me. I’ve since developed a profound appreciation for the perfume and look forward with anticipation and joy to occassions for wearing it.
While there’s been tremendous amount of controversy surrounding The Essences release, their bottles and the production process in particular, the scent itself is remarkably rounded, exuding a soft aura that projects surprisingly far and lingers endlessly.
It opens with, and maintains for a considerable time, mellow candied citrus notes. There’s a subtle hint of fruity tartness, likely derived from davana and anis, but the fresh top primarily conveys the impression of slowly simmered-down citrus molasses. The heart of the composition presents that well-known signature Amouage blend of radiant incense, sparkling elemi, and heating patchouli that pushes the composition off skin in waves.
While the heart notes never truly dissipate, the drydown introduces a vanilla amber woods base that, fortunately, never veers into overly synthetic and, at least to my nose, cloying ambrox territory reminiscent of Enclave. Cécile Zarokian is a master of this type of drydown and, like with Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco, manages to distill the overwhelming array of ingredients she usually mentions in her note breakdowns into a long-lasting and memorable experience. And while the scent itself may not seem groundbreaking — I’ve seen it compared to Ani Extrait de Parfum or Material , both crafted by Zarokian as well — it is incredibly pleasing to wear, doesn’t come across as synthetic, is rich and complex, and in my book can be classed as downright beguiling.
When it comes to practical considerations like longevity, Outlands envelops one in a pleasant bubble that easily lasts from morning to late night. I’m speaking from experience here, having worn the fragrance on a recent trans-Pacific trip, wrestling with suitcases, and idling for extended periods in warm and damp tropical airport departure halls. My take is that the perfume wears quite unisex and can be pulled off by anyone, even if I feel like the first few seconds of the opening lean tad feminine.
As for the controversy: there has been significant amount of panicked talk surrounding the new bottles and the supposed gimmicky maturation and maceration process the scents undergo. While I’m hoping the old creations and new releases stay in the gorgeous signature bottles I own too many of, the new form is incredibly pleasing in person. The photos — however well executed in the promo materials — don’t really do them justice. Yes, they are eerily kardashian-esque and go for that quiet luxury feel, but they are nowhere near the shower gel bottle territory some have been decrying.
When it comes to the seemingly convoluted and maybe a touch over-intellectualized process, I’m not good enough a nose to judge if it yields any real benefits in the scent profile or its quality. I can however say with confidence that I appreciate the final outcome greatly, as well as respect Salmon’s courage for taking a risk in trying to bring the house forward in time — even if it leaves me with a light sense of unease about its future.
While the slow-rolling change in Amouage’s artistic direction is indeed concerning — manifested through the increasingly apparent shift away from the house’s opulent Arab-French roots for a more generic, beige millennial aesthetic, as well as anchoring the compositions around prominent synthetic notes (Purpose, "Guidance | Amouage", Opus XV - King Blue) — I still find the house unmatched in many regards. The Essences, all three of them, are gorgeous, and in my book a great addition to its offerings.
I originally reviewed the perfume from a perfumer's batch 5ml sample while waiting for my full bottle — which most probably comes from the second batch. While the perfume in my bottle is very similar to the sample I tested, it differs in a few key ways.
Firstly, it is seems that the candy-like brightness from the top has been, sadly, noticeably dulled. Secondly, there's now a much more prominent rubbery note in the heart which, at times, takes over the whole composition. This could however be my nose acting up, so there's that.
Finally, and maybe most importantly, the concoction in my full bottle does not last as long as the sample did. Moreover, I now get oddly nose-blind to it, catching whiffs of the perfume here and there for the next few hours after spraying — as opposed to the near constant pleasant bubble the sample used to envelop me in. This usually happens for me when there's a greater portion of synthetic amber materials present in a perfume, but I'm not a good nose, so take this remark as a pure guess and add a big pinch of salt to it.
I'll let the bottle rest for a few months and come back to it to update this review then. However, considering it's supposedly already been maturing and macerating for 6 months, I'm a bit skeptical that much will improve. While I still really like the perfume — and people have been unusually curious and complimentary about it — my non-perfumer's batch full bottle feels in some key ways like a different product compared to the sample I tested extensively a month ago.
----
ORIGINAL REVIEW:
Upon spraying Outlands for the first time, there was no question about it: I wasn’t immediately captivated and, while I thought the scent was pleasant, I found it a tad trite, oddly reminiscent of bubblegum, and ultimately unnecessary for my fragrance collection. I’m not sure what changed, but after wearing it on several occasions over the past few weeks, I can’t for the life of me figure out why I smelled what I smelled back then seeing how it now reads completely differently to me. I’ve since developed a profound appreciation for the perfume and look forward with anticipation and joy to occassions for wearing it.
While there’s been tremendous amount of controversy surrounding The Essences release, their bottles and the production process in particular, the scent itself is remarkably rounded, exuding a soft aura that projects surprisingly far and lingers endlessly.
It opens with, and maintains for a considerable time, mellow candied citrus notes. There’s a subtle hint of fruity tartness, likely derived from davana and anis, but the fresh top primarily conveys the impression of slowly simmered-down citrus molasses. The heart of the composition presents that well-known signature Amouage blend of radiant incense, sparkling elemi, and heating patchouli that pushes the composition off skin in waves.
While the heart notes never truly dissipate, the drydown introduces a vanilla amber woods base that, fortunately, never veers into overly synthetic and, at least to my nose, cloying ambrox territory reminiscent of Enclave. Cécile Zarokian is a master of this type of drydown and, like with Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco, manages to distill the overwhelming array of ingredients she usually mentions in her note breakdowns into a long-lasting and memorable experience. And while the scent itself may not seem groundbreaking — I’ve seen it compared to Ani Extrait de Parfum or Material , both crafted by Zarokian as well — it is incredibly pleasing to wear, doesn’t come across as synthetic, is rich and complex, and in my book can be classed as downright beguiling.
When it comes to practical considerations like longevity, Outlands envelops one in a pleasant bubble that easily lasts from morning to late night. I’m speaking from experience here, having worn the fragrance on a recent trans-Pacific trip, wrestling with suitcases, and idling for extended periods in warm and damp tropical airport departure halls. My take is that the perfume wears quite unisex and can be pulled off by anyone, even if I feel like the first few seconds of the opening lean tad feminine.
As for the controversy: there has been significant amount of panicked talk surrounding the new bottles and the supposed gimmicky maturation and maceration process the scents undergo. While I’m hoping the old creations and new releases stay in the gorgeous signature bottles I own too many of, the new form is incredibly pleasing in person. The photos — however well executed in the promo materials — don’t really do them justice. Yes, they are eerily kardashian-esque and go for that quiet luxury feel, but they are nowhere near the shower gel bottle territory some have been decrying.
When it comes to the seemingly convoluted and maybe a touch over-intellectualized process, I’m not good enough a nose to judge if it yields any real benefits in the scent profile or its quality. I can however say with confidence that I appreciate the final outcome greatly, as well as respect Salmon’s courage for taking a risk in trying to bring the house forward in time — even if it leaves me with a light sense of unease about its future.
While the slow-rolling change in Amouage’s artistic direction is indeed concerning — manifested through the increasingly apparent shift away from the house’s opulent Arab-French roots for a more generic, beige millennial aesthetic, as well as anchoring the compositions around prominent synthetic notes (Purpose, "Guidance | Amouage", Opus XV - King Blue) — I still find the house unmatched in many regards. The Essences, all three of them, are gorgeous, and in my book a great addition to its offerings.