It looks exciting, doesn't it? One glance at the notes pyramid and interest spikes.
Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco should, in theory, be right up my alley with its multitude of notes and the focal point being tobacco. I mean, tobacco is the main protagonist here, right? Well, only in theory. In reality, what you get with Cécile's creation here is closer to a 'Royal Liquorice' or, if we take a more critical view, 'Royal Deception'. How so?
Well, first of all, the notes pyramid here is not terribly helpful as reference. It mostly fuels your initial impression of "complexity", bringing in plenty of interest alongside. And for the most part, it is a pretty complex fragrance, but it also feels like it's trying too hard to be perceived as complex rather than reading first and foremost as a tobacco fragrance, which it fails to do.
As soon as you spray, you are met with a blast driven by spices, particularly aromatic Aniseed and warm cardamom with clear citric facets which are only brightened up by the Elemi resin. Some balsamic undertones are present too, as well as some herbaceous complexity with a variety of aromatic qualities - mint, pepper, even clove. The frankincense adds very soft smoky touches, but primarily a spicy/aromatic structure with balsamic undertones is what you get in the opening.
It's all soon covered in liquorice sweetness, however, with a very distinct aroma. It's got a slight earthiness to it, and it also reminds me of maple a nudge, but mainly it's sweetness which won't be to everyone's liking. By now, a headache shouldn't surprise you; it can easily get overwhelming. The rest of the heart notes take a step back and just offer backend support at best, with the fenugreek further aiding in the sweet aspects of the scent, while the floral notes around are barely detectable. At best I get a little of that herbal lavender and faint fruity nuances from the prunol, but no orange blossom, no osmanthus, and no rose. But what about the tobacco? This is called "Royal Tobacco" in the end. Well, it is there, but it's nowhere near the center of the stage where it should be. It brings a dried hay-like aroma, warm and sweet, but it fails to stand out for the liquorice overpowers it.
The base, however, kept my hopes up for a grand finale, a change of scene, something to bring that sweetness back in check. That doesn't happen; the base is arguably the most disappointing part of
Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco. It is mostly an amber-driven base with vanillic touches, mild charred wood, and tame balsamic-resinous notes. Soft smokiness tags along too, but you can be certain there is no oud here. Just a rather disappointing base which doesn't hit nearly as hard as it should and it is covered in amber, balsam and liquorice sweetness. And so you probably can see why I'm left wanting more. Not more sweetness or liquorice, absolutely not. Those are arguably what ruin it for me. But more tobacco and better integration of the notes, not just a lot of ingredients thrown in the pot just to be overpowered by a few singular notes. The overall quality of the blend and materials is great, no doubt about it, but it's kind of hard to appreciate it as a whole when you're not given enough room for it.
Speaking of room, you might not want to wear
Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco in crowded rooms, as this can easily be overwhelming not just for you but for anyone around you. For me, it's not the case. Either the skin chemistry is acting up or I've got a weaker sample, but performance on me never really reached a level where I genuinely got lightheaded. Still, it showed pretty good endurance on my skin with around 8-9 hours, while in terms of projection it was consistent, pushing over 2 feet for the first hour, then mildly settling down across the next 3-4 hours. Even after 4 hours I could very vaguely catch a whiff of it here and there. So as far as I'm concerned,
Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco doesn't overwhelm me.
Given that, I also found it a bit easier to wear. Sure, it's still not a very versatile option, but for special events, particularly outdoor events during the colder weather, this could do it just fine. Definitely not a scent you'd wear to the office or school.
Still, I'm disappointed.
Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco not only failed to meet the expectations, but it also fooled me by making me think that I would get a complex tobacco masterpiece with it. It is complex, but just for the sake of it. It has tobacco, but only for a brief period during the wearing and it doesn't even take center stage. And it's quite sweet overall, which for me it doesn't win extra points. Hence,
Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco is not a fragrance that you should consider if you're after that ultimate tobacco blend. It is definitely worth a try, regardless of what you're after, but just don't expect to be met with a lit up dry aged Cuban cigar - leave those expectations back at home.
Overall Rating: 6.9/10