01/11/2016

Karenin
39 Reviews

Karenin
Helpful Review
6
"O/E by Bogue Profumo"
Composing an original AND top-notch citrus-centred fragrance is a tough nut to crack. There are two major problems with this category of scents: first of all, many of them have very little or nothing new to add to the genre idea-wise (the infamous “been there/done that” effect). Secondly, even if they present a novel idea, the initial excitement is often swiftly subdued by their miserable longevity. “O/E”, Antonio Gardoni's follow-up fragrance after the highly-praised “Maai” is a take on the citrus theme. Even though I suspected (or wished?) his treatment of the genre would successfully avoid the typical pitfalls, I approached his perfume with a fair amount of trepidation.
In no way does “O/E” hide the fact that it's a thoroughbred citrus fragrance. The initial blast of a plethora of citric notes (according to Pierre de Nishapur's blog there´s bergamot, lemon, lime, lemongrass, neroli – you name it!) is both powerful and complex. They are so well-blended that although the head is unmistakeably citrus-based, it´s quite hard to dissect it into individual notes. The magic, fortunately, does not stop at this point. After the citric extravaganza settles down, spices (cloves, eucalyptus and pine in particular) and woods (cedar) come to the forefront. Coupled with oakmoss, they give “O/E” a very classical feel, not too dissimilar from 70s/80s masculine colognes, such as Saint Laurent's “Pour Homme”. This is not to say that I see “O/E” as a masculine fragrance; it just possesses this funky retro air. Reportedly, Gardoni also added Iso E Super to his composition in order to contrast natural and artificial ingredients. I must admit my nose does pick up a slight (artificial?) haze in the heart which, during some wearings, turned a little harsh, but it´s not something that would disrupt the overall structure of the composition. When you think you've reached the end of the road, “O/E” pulls one last rabbit out of its hat: an animalic note (it smells like civet to me). Since it pops up in the extreme drydown, instead of roaring it purrs. Nevertheless, it provides the fragrance with a pleasantly tongue-in-cheek signoff.
I'm not sure “O/E” will be embraced as warmly as its elder sibling “Maai” by the perfume community, but in my opinion, despite not being perfect, “O/E” is an impressive attempt at creating a solid and versatile citrus fragrance. It's an effective fusion of the modern and the classical, using high-quality raw materials. Finally, its longevity and projection are way above average for this sort of scent, which must cheer the heart of every citrus perfume lover.
In no way does “O/E” hide the fact that it's a thoroughbred citrus fragrance. The initial blast of a plethora of citric notes (according to Pierre de Nishapur's blog there´s bergamot, lemon, lime, lemongrass, neroli – you name it!) is both powerful and complex. They are so well-blended that although the head is unmistakeably citrus-based, it´s quite hard to dissect it into individual notes. The magic, fortunately, does not stop at this point. After the citric extravaganza settles down, spices (cloves, eucalyptus and pine in particular) and woods (cedar) come to the forefront. Coupled with oakmoss, they give “O/E” a very classical feel, not too dissimilar from 70s/80s masculine colognes, such as Saint Laurent's “Pour Homme”. This is not to say that I see “O/E” as a masculine fragrance; it just possesses this funky retro air. Reportedly, Gardoni also added Iso E Super to his composition in order to contrast natural and artificial ingredients. I must admit my nose does pick up a slight (artificial?) haze in the heart which, during some wearings, turned a little harsh, but it´s not something that would disrupt the overall structure of the composition. When you think you've reached the end of the road, “O/E” pulls one last rabbit out of its hat: an animalic note (it smells like civet to me). Since it pops up in the extreme drydown, instead of roaring it purrs. Nevertheless, it provides the fragrance with a pleasantly tongue-in-cheek signoff.
I'm not sure “O/E” will be embraced as warmly as its elder sibling “Maai” by the perfume community, but in my opinion, despite not being perfect, “O/E” is an impressive attempt at creating a solid and versatile citrus fragrance. It's an effective fusion of the modern and the classical, using high-quality raw materials. Finally, its longevity and projection are way above average for this sort of scent, which must cheer the heart of every citrus perfume lover.