Iris & Wild Cassis Bronnley 2017

I bought Iris & Wild Cassis in a poke, or blind, as they say, in the world of fragrances. They were the last pieces available on the shelf, and the tester was miserably empty. Sniffing the sprayer, some well-known coffee macchiato with vanilla milk brought to mind the Black Opium Eau de Parfum, and it was this association with variegated coffee, or cappuccino, that inspired me with the title, a Parisian coffee or Café à la Parisienne. Iris & Wild Cassis combines the lightly powdered scent of a classic flower with a modern twist of fruit and gourmand touch. It’s a vanilla coffee and patchouli blend, with chocolate nuances and floral undertones. Although produced by an ancient English perfume house, Bronnley, this delicate fragrance takes inspiration from the most recent creations of YSL and CH houses. In fact, after reading the name Iris & Wild Cassis, I was expecting a flowery and powdery aroma in the wake of #Prada Infusion. Instead, the toasted and chocolaty accords of this essence immediately bring to mind the Black Opium Eau de Parfum and Good Girl Eau de Parfum fragrances genre, which I don’t mind. However, I don’t get along very well with aromas that are too sweet and disgusting.

Iris & Wild Cassis surprises me with a bittersweet opening of fresh fruit, sour leaves, and a sprinkling of spice. It combines the mandarin’s sparkling, sweet, and subtle citrus bright note with the sour note of the wild berries’ leaves. A pinch of pink pepper completes the opening with its mild spicy aspect. There is no prevailing note, but a well-balanced blend. Puffs of patchouli emerge from the bottom without clashing with hints of roasted coffee and cocoa powder, which could be more pronounced, but I cherish it. Well, rather than the smell of a real espresso, this is more of a hint of coffee: deep but smooth, with sweet hints of hazelnut, almond and liquorice.

The heart beats on the dusty buttery accords of the ephemeral iris root, embellished with the abundant white and fleshly flowers of the tuberose, delicately intense. I get the subtlety slant of violet in the iris output. Then, the sweetness grows thanks to jasmine, the pulp of the dark plum and the phenolic notes of star anise. There is A riot of fresh, intense white flowers that embrace the ripe fruits and spices of the Far East.

When the fragrance settles on the skin, the patchouli seems to add depth and character, but thankfully no sickly sweetness. The mysterious trail continues with a flash of patchouli, reminiscent of the seductive facet of dark chocolate and roasted coffee beans. Patchouli is devoid of herbaceous tones, but it still smells earthy, slightly bitter, and blends perfectly with the coffee. There is an amber facet with a strong muskiness, which reveals a deeper coffee note. Amber, in turn, is sweet and creamy.

I would call Iris & Wild Cassis a semi-linear fragrance, which doesn’t change too dramatically. The opening is perhaps brighter, and the base deepens into earthy patchouli, but the general impression of flowers, fruits, and gourmand notes remains for the duration of the perfume. Longevity and sillage are media, perhaps disappointing for the bold opening of the perfume, but still in line with the fragrance’s EDT concentration. It is that kind of scent that evokes cold months, a rainy and foggy autumn afternoon. This fragrance has a warm and welcoming smell, sweet with a bitter side, in pleasant contrast. Patchouli makes it feel earthy-dark, but not in the cheeky style of Good Girl Eau de Parfum, similarly marketed.

I base the review on a 50ml bottle I have owned since September 2022.

-Elysium