Monsieur. Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle 2016

Intense, dark, compact patchouli opening par excellence, masculine and dry, but not scratchy or overpowering. Slightly medicinal and quite leathery, it reminds me at first of a doctor from the old days, in a smart wool suit, 19th century, who opens his leather bag with a few herbs in it during a house call.

This rather extreme interpretation loosens up a little, however, and after 10-15 minutes a subtle, dry-zesty mandarin is added, loosening the whole thing up slightly, but only slightly; it sits rather quietly between the leather and the patch.

As it progresses, it is almost a return to the patch as the focus, rather delicate, warm incense envelops it, spiced rum is added, the leather becomes a little more animalic, but never too much.

All in all, a fragrance that knows what it wants to be, doesn't change or change much, and even feels like it is returning to its strengths. A patchouli breaker, one of the patchouli references, even if it is played around with a little, so not for absolute fans of the purely natural note.