GratWanderer

A wonderfully cool, mineral entry into the world of incense. Almost velvety, refreshing and yet slightly "gothic", the scent always made me think of the hidden and eerily beautiful Parisian underworld and its catacombs. They fit into the mental image in several ways: on the one hand, they are former quarries (mineral), which became the final resting place for millions of Parisians after the cemeteries became overcrowded (incense/grufti), but they are fascinating and, in connection with the location and the preservation of the sites, there is something macabre-romantic about them (rose).

While it starts quite mineral-incense focused and airy, it becomes drier and slightly more tart, but always retains this French lightness, this discreet volume and still manages to be present. In the course of the first 30-60 minutes, the leather note becomes more present, but for me it remains somewhere around 30% in terms of the fragrance character, incense and aldehydes remain dominant, the leather is freshly rubbed and rubbed suede, seems rather light and young. The rose is probably what gives the fragrance this toilet fragrance note for some in combination with the dryness and the aldehydes, I personally never really had to think about it, the mineral incense was too different. The rose is also more like a drop or two of rose water that has fallen on the suede, on which the mountain of mineral incense and quartz lies, the pepper gives a very small spice kick at the back, which you probably wouldn't always notice blindfolded.

For me, it's a very well-balanced and successful fragrance overall, but like many of the house's projects, the thought of "Who are they doing this for?" hovers in the air, apparently because they feel like it and I think that's fantastic. Unconventional and special. Would be a high candidate for my list if I didn't already have 2-3 incense fragrances too many. :)
Incidentally, with the quite respectable performance, especially for franz. Fragrance art, a real bargain at the price and then also often discounted.

Intense, dark, compact patchouli opening par excellence, masculine and dry, but not scratchy or overpowering. Slightly medicinal and quite leathery, it reminds me at first of a doctor from the old days, in a smart wool suit, 19th century, who opens his leather bag with a few herbs in it during a house call.

This rather extreme interpretation loosens up a little, however, and after 10-15 minutes a subtle, dry-zesty mandarin is added, loosening the whole thing up slightly, but only slightly; it sits rather quietly between the leather and the patch.

As it progresses, it is almost a return to the patch as the focus, rather delicate, warm incense envelops it, spiced rum is added, the leather becomes a little more animalic, but never too much.

All in all, a fragrance that knows what it wants to be, doesn't change or change much, and even feels like it is returning to its strengths. A patchouli breaker, one of the patchouli references, even if it is played around with a little, so not for absolute fans of the purely natural note.

Beautiful, very oily and elegant bitter orange, numerous oranges and grapefruit peels slowly squeezed out with a mortar until all the essential oils have come out, an airy, slightly green cloud pervades the beautiful bitter citrus notes, juniper berry with a little juniper on the stem, very slightly woody, beautifully invigorating and stimulating. Pink pepper only as a small pinch on top for a little pep, does the rest good. A very well-balanced opening that is quite special in its composition, given that the notes listed are quite classic in themselves.

It takes an interesting, slightly unexpected direction; after 15 minutes, the rose and the increasingly green notes take us into territory that seems a little old-fashioned at first glance, with a hint of soapiness in between

After more than an hour, we move into the base, the rose remains delicate, is now cozily framed by warm resins, but thanks to the very fresh tonka, the fragrance retains something light and invigorating, but the oud is more likely to be sought with a magnifying glass.

Overall, a rather weaker Bortnikoff release for me. It's a nicely balanced fragrance with a great opening, but it takes too classic a turn for me and the base is also rather smooth and generally has little of the oud that appears in the name. I have seen more interesting fresh oud interpretations.

Wonderfully aromatic start, dried, dark tobacco leaves, generally a dryness with exactly the perfect combination of residual freshness, darkness and sweetness. Raisins that have long since dried up, a few cocoa beans in between, slightly roasted vanilla pod. A wicked back room in a slightly run-down former luxury hotel in the middle of Havana.

After 10-15 minutes, you notice the influence of cardamom, but in a beautifully natural and culinary way, not this sweet gloop as is so often the case, leathery notes now also come into play, as well as old and dry rather than fresh and oiled.
Cinnamon also spreads after 40-50 minutes, again, authentic and not cloying.

Not much changes in the further course, sometimes it seems drier, sometimes sweeter, changes nicely. Unfortunately, it has a much weaker sillage for me than it appears here in the rating, more like a 6.5 (that's not possible). I don't think that's a bad thing in itself, it suits the grown-up interpretation of the theme, a dry, elegant and not too loud men's fragrance for tobacco and vanilla fans. But not the classic gourmand fans, although the theme is supposed to be the different aspects of vanilla.

Beautiful, intense opening and typical Tom Ford (the good TF). Mystical and hearty, a cinnamon fog spreads over pickled, boozy plums, old Armagnac in the jar in which the 10 plums are preserved. Dark resinous notes also come into play right from the start, and the peculiarity of the notes also brings up associations of handmade licorice, and when cinnamon and vanilla come into play, I keep thinking of pomegranate (syrup), an ingredient that is found in many cocktails

After about 30 minutes, the fragrance becomes a little fresher, still noticeably boozy, but now the freshly picked plum is added, along with beautifully fresh, rather light saffron and individual, brightening floral notes.

After an hour we are already quite far away from the beginning, even more delicate and lighter, we have the benzoin and amber, warming, but fresh and powdery, rather only very restrained green plum, still the saffron and subtle freshness of cypress.
Not much happens in the further course of the fragrance.
Overall, I have to say that I think the first 30 minutes are brilliant, the first hour is still very nice, but after that, unfortunately, it quickly turns into a warm, ambery finish that is no longer particularly interesting and is very skin-deep even after 90 minutes. Too bad, if it had been slower it might even have been my favorite TF, but it's not worth the money.